Power Steering Leak / Diesel Leak

Seems the vintage coach has sprung a couple of leaks. First one being at the power steering pump. I cleaned the pump up then started the engine. It would appear that the leak is coming from a port on the side that looks to be a plug held in place by a cold roll pin. The plug most likely holds a pressure relief valve behind it.

It will take a midget to replace this or a lift / pit to get the discharge hose and rear mounting bolt out.

Has anyone had a problem with one of these? It looks to possibly be a Vickers pump but there is not tag on it or any marking on the suction side of the pump.

Secondly, in trying to track down the power steering leak, I found a diesel leak that appears to be coming from the rear of the engine, but you can't see anything on the back of an 8V92 in one of these coaches, so I am assuming it is either (a) the return line from the heads or (b) one of the plugs on the back of the head that connects to high pressure fuel gallery. I think the return fittings are special ones that have an orifice in them to hold back pressure on the fuel system, but are they manifolded together with the single line returning to the tank?

This may be the more truculent one to fix, but I only think there is one source of fuel back there. Sometimes when the fuel pump craps out, it will leak fuel back along the base of the blower and make it appear that there is fuel leaking from the back, but I checked that and it looks pretty dry.

There may be a trip to Stewart and Stevenson in my future, however both of these would be easy to fix if I could get any reasonable access to them :(

Jerry I'm guessin you've decided that opening the access hatch at the rear floor is not a realistic option.

I'm sure you have a better idea from where you sit but that might be one of those things that you think is a harder job than it really is?

How about this. I know your a conciderably bigger guy. If you can when the bus is manually all the way up on the bags in the rear, and blocked up;) , there is enough room for me to slide under on my back from the rear and scoot myself up to a sitting position on the drivers side where the alternater resides. Pulling the tag tires also sheds a world of light when working in that location too.

It was a little scarry the first time I discovered this and went in but I've been in there a few times now and seem to find more room each time.

You could also try and find a moderate sized helper:rolleyes:

Hi Jerry. I don't know if you are trying to do the work yourself or simply figure out what's happening with the leaks. I think if you can find a detroit deisel mechanic, you will be ahead of the game. Any truck shop should be able to handle leaks I would hope. Gary

Jerry
The access hatch at the rear floor will put you right on top of the power steering pump. Two years ago I had to replace an o-ring on a fitting at the pump. I did not won't to cut the carpet so I took the batteries out and snaked my way to it. It was not fun. Next time I will cut the carpet. I have a 27' long pit in my shop. You are welcome to it if you want to drive to Crosby. My shop is empty every weekend.

Mark
1988 Vulcan XL

Mark,

If I can procure the correct pump, I may take you up on the use of the pit. From what I can see, the access door from the inside of the coach puts you right on TOP of the rear part of the engine, not BEHIND it which is where I would need to be. And yes, if I were smaller, pulling all the batteries out and working my way in there could work if it weren't for the mongo AC hoses that run from the compressor right thru the middle of this area.

If anyone knows the exact pump used in this application I would appreciate hearing about it. I think it is a Vickers V-20, but there are about a dozen ratings for this one pump and none of the information I have on the coach or engine specifies the correct one. I know I can pull it off and probably get the correct info off the pump somewhere, but the thought of trying to find the right pump on Saturday is not appealing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jerry Winchester

Mark,

If I can procure the correct pump, I may take you up on the use of the pit. From what I can see, the access door from the inside of the coach puts you right on TOP of the rear part of the engine, not BEHIND it which is where I would need to be. And yes, if I were smaller, pulling all the batteries out and working my way in there could work if it weren't for the mongo AC hoses that run from the compressor right thru the middle of this area.

If anyone knows the exact pump used in this application I would appreciate hearing about it. I think it is a Vickers V-20, but there are about a dozen ratings for this one pump and none of the information I have on the coach or engine specifies the correct one. I know I can pull it off and probably get the correct info off the pump somewhere, but the thought of trying to find the right pump on Saturday is not appealing.

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Jerry, You probably already thought of this,so never mind if you did. You can guess to zero in on which couple/few pumps it actually is then obtain one of each (with a return priviledge for those not used). Open the job and burn the midnight oil using only what you need! Just like the shops with a parts room.
:cool: :eek: JIM
P.S. Have the wife along to hold the light and chase parts once your down in the hold. hahaha :D :D

Jerry, I forgot to say, it sounds as though your upcoming experience will be cathartic as well as truculent!! :p :D

Jerry
I have bought (exchanged) pumps from Texas Power Steering Rebuilders. You might give them a call.
Texas Power Steering Rebuilders, Inc.
3500 N. McCarty
Houston, TX 77029-1192
Phone: 713-676-1608, 800-331-6286 (toll free)

Mark

I don't know if it's the same thing or not, but when I first purchased my coach it developed (had?) a steering pump leak. Took it to Prevost, and they told me it's generally an O-ring which goes out at about the 10+ year mark. They fixed it in less than 30 minutes of labor, and parts were like $2.00.

Before purchasing a whole new pump, see if it's the o-ring. They indicated this was VERY common.

Called the Texas Power Steering guru this morning and found out that it is indeed a Vickers pump and that the only thing wrong is a o-ring on the plunger that is held in by the roll pin. He said to tap the pin out past the housing ID, tap the side of the pump, catch the plunger when it comes whizzing out (spring loaded) and then change the $.29 o-ring and reinstall it. It is a common problem as Ray pointed out in his post, so I'm off to find a midget. Or I may call Mark and use the pit this weekend.....

Thanks Mark and Ray.

BTW, John at Texas Power Steering was a great guy to chat with and very helpful.

Picking up the coach from the Detroit Diesel gurus in the morning. The lowdown is that they stuffed a midget up behind the engine and found two (2) diesel leaks and two oil leaks (imagine that). One was the aforementioned return line and the other was the aforementioned plug in the back of the head.

The line has been changed, but they say to tighten up the plug, they have to pull the head because the bell housing interferes with it. I say that pulling the head off just leads to a bunch of future problems, so I have opted to see how much the leak was taken care of by changing out the hose and go from there. I am also thinking about making a special allen wrench to slide between the head and housing to see if I can get a couple of turns on the plug. A tool that looks like a slim jim with a stub allen wrench piece welded onto it. That has to be worth a try.

The oil leaks turned out to be the clamp on the breather tube and one of the valve covers. Oil and fuel consumption should abate. Sweet.

So the cooling system is flushed and filled with new PowerCool, the oil changed and the power steering pump is new, so if the bus gods are smiling on me, we are about 11 days from launching for the left coast.

If the vintage 8V92 will cut and tie every bale for another 4700 miles, we should be in good shape.:)

Jerry, can you get a picture of the loose plug. I like the idea of the special tool. Go for it.

If that doesn't work could you clean the area real good and apply a dollop of " DEVCON" over the top. It is a metal fortified epoxy. Mc Master Carr or Grainger or a bearing supplier should have it. Different grades for different tasks.

Degrease with tooth brush and acetone or MEK,( aerosol break cleaner) then wire brush (small like tooth brush, or round wound on twisted wire shaft in electric drill) degrease again and blow dry, and apply material.:eek:

If you had one a small sand blast of the area would be best.:p

Don't forget SHOW and TELL! :D