Brake controller install question

Hello all, I am installing a prodigy brake controller in our 2002 XLII. Does anyone know the best place to connect the brake signal wire. I found the brake switches in the brake pedal, but they are 24 volt.

Tim,

I assume you are talking about a signal wire you need at the driver's position for the brake controller. The switch wire you found is as good as any connection point. You will want to splice into that line installing a fusevery near the fuse point. You will install a relay off the splice point. I'd recommend the same 20A relays used by Prevost just for commanilty as the brake controlled doesn't require the 20A capability of the relays Prevost used. The relay will switch the 12V required for the brake controller. If you need a drawing on how to do this, let me know.

You will also need to run a brake control line to the in car controller. You can go to the wiring diagrams at thePrevost Car site and look for a spare wire between the electrical boxes below the driver's door and control box over the engine. BTW, CC typically installed their trailer tow control circuit in the box over the engine.

FWIW, I don't recommend the electrical brake controllers for towing you car. The air systems from SMI (Air Force One) and M&G are far better systems. I use AF1. FYI, if you consider using the signal to the brake lights realize they may activate with your Jake brake or transmission retarder. Some remove the relay that turns on the brake light when the Jake or retarder are activated. I removed mine.

Tim,

I know you are not asking which system you should use or which one is the best, but if you get bogged down with the controller installation and you are looking for an easy self-installed system, there is always a Brake Buddy or one of the other Progressive Braking systems (InvisiBrake) that are easy to install. I use a Brake Buddy that I purchased "used" a few years ago for a a couple hundred dollars. Of course I pull a girly PT Cruiser that weights almost nothing, and I do realize that a Brake Buddy or a PT Cruiser are not very Prevost-ish. As I keep talking about this, "maybe I need to switch tow cars and braking systems"!

I have used what Gill suggested on other controls where a 24 volt signal needs to be 12.

The trailer lights. Some a/c compressors. Very simple to use a 24 volt relay but simply hook 12 volts to the spade for the + battery instead of 24.

I hooked up a Prodigy brake controller to tow my hauler. I used the connections outside next to the drivers seat (Prevost wiring, not converters). There are some open lines that run to the back of the bus so I did not have to run any wires back and forth. Look at the door panel diagram and it will tell you which ones are available. Normally, the ones with only 1 wire attached go to the control box above your engine. All wires in there are numbered.

I also used the brake and signal wires in the rear box to complete the 7 pin hookup for turn signals, brakes, and 12V feed. There should be a diagram with wire numbers that link the front and back.

I grabbed the 12V feed from the front panel. Just put a meter on some of the areas to find 12V. I think the 12V power strip is to the right side.

I had a 1995 Liberty but yours should be the same setup. It has been sold so I cannot give you the specific wire numbers I used.

I used a Ford plug from a Ford that had a towing package and ordered the Ford adapter for the Prodigy from the internet. I think it was e-Trailer site. I did that so I could use the Prodigy on my Ford van to haul the same hauler. Of course it could just be hard wired if you don't plan on using the Prodigy in another vehicle.

So Ron, are you without a Bus right now ?

Thanks everyone. The 24 volt relay was my second choice if there wasn't a better place to get the signal.i will use a relay.
This controller will be for electric trailer brakes. I found the spare wires running from the front to the back. Since they are small, I will parallel two of them. The bus was already set up for air operated supplemental brakes on a toad. ( M&G I think) I plan to rig up a Jeep for flat towing a little later. Am I right thinking that there are are no controllers or lights etc. needed with the M&G system, only the air line from the bus bumper to the unit at the toad master cylinder?
Thanks for the help!

Yes you are right about the M and G,they also have a break-a-away option that I like and is easy to install.

Ok, good deal on the M&G system.
Thanks everyone for the tips.

I intended to install a M&G on a bran new 2013 Ford 1/2 ton PU. After receiving the kit it was decided to send it back.

Installation required cutting a reservoir for antifreeze overflow and windshield washer fluid in half. The spot they wanted to relocate 1/2 of the reservoir was in a terrible spot up high close to the cowl and as shown in install photo, crooked.

I would not have wanted to find out the hard way how that mod may have voided any warranty's on that new vehicle should it have needed to be brought back to the dealer for anything.

We sent it back.

If U R thinking about adding things or changing things on newer vehicles still under warranty I would suggest U ask the manufacturer to send off install instructions and photos before u buy so this dilemma does not happen to U.

I think M&G is a great accessory and assume any similar component from other manufacturers will also have similar potential hurtles depending on the vehicle it is being installed on. Do your homework.

Joe, the exact reason I opted for AF1 over M&G. I even moved the AF1 from a 2011 Jeep GC to a 2012 Explorer without any issues. I actually didn't have a choice with the Jeep. There wasn't enough room to push the master cylinder forward.

Jim, Yes, we no longer have our bus. We are having a custom build of a motor home that sleeps 10. Grand children and their parents dictate more sleeping arrangements.

Ron

Wow ! I would like to see how that turns out.