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my electric waters heaters do not seem to be working properly or at least one. i am assuming there are two since there are two breakers. the problem is that the water will only get warm and not a large supply. can someone advise first where is the hwh and what might be my problem its a 2005 CC conversion thanks pat chism
Your cc is set up like my Legendary. What every cc did, Legendary did. There are two brakers so you can budget your electric usage when needed. One will work on your webasto but both will work on electric. Check the thermosdat, it should be on the top water heater. Mine is labled water heater #1. unscrew the chrome plate covering the electrical leeds. Be careful as this is real electric! You will see a dial with temperatures on it just like at home. Set it where you need it and see if that helps.
It is also possible that the over temperature has been activated by the coolant from the Detroit diesel,when you remove the chrome cover press the reset.
Hey guys, please add a signature, it will help with identifying the year and converter.
thanks guys but tell me where to find it. i have looked i maybe not recognizing it. i can turn on the furnace and it its fine is it tied in with it?
Can't say for sure on your bus but on mine you would check drivers side 3rd bay - water manifold, outside faucet, paper towel dispenser etc, remove the outer cover and you would find two heaters stacked along with your pump.
Hope this helps.
My water heaters are on the passenger side in the 4th bay just behind the basement air bay. I think 2005 cc are located in the same place.
how do you get to them thanks pat
This problem could be more complex than the responders think. I have spent days and dollars trouble shooting a problem with one of my two heaters, in my 2002 CC, not heating up to the same temp it used to, or to the same temp as the other heater, when the electric switch is activated. If you are still having a problem, let me know, and we can discuss my experience.
Paul Chelew pgchelew@gmail.com
Paul,
The hot water heaters are pretty simple appliances. What was the problem you had? Sharing may help us all at some point in time.
Original poster,
FWIW, my two heaters are also stacked behind the panel in the third bay. You can see them by taking off the water filter access panel. If yours are there, just remove the outer panel to access them. The most likely problems include the thermostat and heating element.
Gil:
This will be a bit long, but hope it might help. About 1 1/2 years ago, heater # 1 stopped heating to more than about 99 degrees. It used to go to about 150 degrees. Heater #2 continued to heat to about 150. The two are on different legs of the AC system, and the Link 2000 Heart displays have the ability to show amp draws on each leg. Last summer we went to Oregon Motor Coach for other work, plus a request to fix this problem. They assigned a new hire to the heater problem, who, over several days at OMC shop, proceeded to replace the hi temp limit switch, the heater element, and run up about 6, 7 hours of labor, all without solving the problem. When I got home, I called the heater mfr., got their tech help person, was told to check: amp draw (had already done that, no difference between the two heaters); the temp of the water output by manually popping the PT valve and reading the temp at the outflow hose ( did that, both heaters were within a couple of degrees of each other); time from cold to hot shut-off (both were within 4, 5 minutes of each other); amp draw from cold to hot shut-off per heater (both pulled within a couple of amps of each other). Failing to find any discrepancy, they advised that one of the cold water check valves could be allowing cold water into the output line when the hot faucet was opened with heater #1 on line alone. I replaced both check valves, and all of the cone washers in all of the in/out lines at the heaters. No change. After that, I got tired of working on the problem; no one at OMC or Country Coach Corp in OR , or at Atwood Mfg. had any further suggestions. I think the low temp sensor is the problem, but haven't had the patience/time to pull the whole thing apart again and do the work. Any ideas?
Paul
Paul you lost me. How do you know the heaters are putting out 99 and 150. You say you have check the temps coming out to of the PT valves and they are the close to the same. Is that 150 or 99? What about the drain valves, what's the temp there?
Paul, I too am a bit confused on how the temperatures were measured. Turn off the water and power to one heater and let the other come to temperature. Turn off the electric to the heater that just got hot and run the water to get rid of the hot water. Turn off the water to the one that got hot and turn on the water and electric to the other. Once that one comes up to temperature measure the temperature. I believe this is the only way to determine the heater's temperature because I don't believe there are any check valves on the hot water side of the heaters. If these come out close to each other you don't have a problem.
It's possible that the water flow rate through the heaters is different enough that when only one is on it may appear it's temperature is low because of the cold water flow coming through the heater that's off.
You have all given me the confidence to tackle problems. Our water heater was not working so I checked the thermostat and the heating element. The heating element was bad, replaced it, and suddenly lots of hot water for our first real trip this month! POG is a real source of information and courage for those of us who are not by nature mechanical or fixers. Now as we start our journey the nagging concern of what might break on some lonely road to nowhere is replaced by ' hum, if something happens I might just be able to fix it myself' and the knowledge that there are others who have faced similar problems in the past. The journey is much more fun when it becomes a positive adventure instead of a drive into the void.
Thanks, Otto Rogers
Yes, Another happy POG member! The fact is , these are wonderful machines with many moving parts. Some things I can do myself, other things I know who to call or where to go to get repairs and maintence at the most reasonible cost. All learned right here .
Gil & Greg:
I just spent 15+ minutes writing a detailed reply to the questions about how this all took place, then hit Post, and it went into cyber space. Don't have the time/patience to try again. Call if you want a verbal description 775)246-9009.
Gil & Greg: I'll give this another try at Posting a reply. The temps were measured over several days time, with the heaters being both turned off between temp measuring events. The water temps were measured, one heater at a time being turned on, the other one off, with at least a day in between each event to allow the water in the heaters to cool off. The point of measurement for each heater was the outflow from the PT relief valve, which can be manually opened, and which is routed in my coach via a silicone hose about 2' to 3' long, thru a hole in the bottom of the compartment. Water coming out of those hoses was about 150 degrees for each heater/hose, demonstrating that each heater was working properly/the same.
The drain valves in this case were not an accurate source of temp measurement because of the way they are routed, so were not used for measurements.
Hope that clears up an confusion.