Can anyone recommend a supplier for a manual rivet gun. I need one to handle a 1/4" stainless steel rivet on the side of the bus. I saw one by Cherry but it was about $600, hoping to find a cheaper alternative.
Thanks
Mike
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Can anyone recommend a supplier for a manual rivet gun. I need one to handle a 1/4" stainless steel rivet on the side of the bus. I saw one by Cherry but it was about $600, hoping to find a cheaper alternative.
Thanks
Mike
Mike, I hope this can help out, Harry told me about this site.
page 3159
http://www.mcmaster.com/
ps, where are the 1/4's at?
Dale,
Thanks. It's the bottom panel on a bay door (wide turn award). The originals were 3/16 but now IBP is offering 1/4" SS rivets as a replacement.
I should've made it a seminar at POGII ;)
Mike
Dale,
Are you and Harry sure that this will handle a 1/4" thru stainless? The price is certainly great.
Attachment 435
Are these Prevo Rivets Monobolt? Whatever that means. If so it does take a special rivet gun.
Lew should know the answer to this as he was the head Rivet guy on the Titanic job.
MIke
Mango: Hold on for a little bit. I'll get the stuff you need and get back to you.
I don't know why IBP is trying to change you up from 3/16" rivets to 1/4". Way over kill and presents problems pulling them. I'll get back to you soon. How soon do you need to have it done?
I just happen to have an air operated unit. Can loan it out n/c if you need. Located in Ft. Lauderdale. Just a short ups ride away.
Mango: Go to the address below and the rivet gun you need is there. it's just like the one I have, and will work.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/productIndex.shtml
Next go to mcmaster.com and put this part number in the blank. 97524A044.
Those are closed-end sealing SS rivets with ss mandrel and domed top. These will work.
I would be happy to send you my rivet puller, but freight back and forth would probably be almost as much as the gun, your choice.
I'll send you that cross brace for your rub rail as soon as I can find it, or get to the shop to make another one.
Any problems with the above, let me know
Dale: The above address is where the rivet gun comes from.
Toy Box,
Wow, only 4 posts and already you're loaning out tools, that's the kind of POGGer we want. Thanks for the offer but I think I'm covered. Welcome over from -stuff.com
Big Harry,
I'll take your advice on the smaller rivets and order some from Masters. The 1/4" was their recommendation and I believe they are monobolts which take a real serious tool.
I have the Bay door off, some I'm anxious to get it done.
You don't have to send the cross brace until the next Jimmy Buffet concert.
Can you give me the grainger part # for the tool as the link doesn't work - you probably have to be logged in to make it work right.
Thanks
Mike
Mango: The unit like mine is no longer available. The alternate they offer is the same as McMaster Model # 90239A51 @ $ 96.92 I would oder the 2 1/2' nose extension with it # 90239A55 $ 30.73 I would order this and the rivets from McMaster. You are dealing with closed-end sealing SS rivets with ss mandrel and domed top. After installation you can put clear silicone in the external rivet holes, as prevost does. I replaced all the panels below the rub rails on my coach a week before POG2 with the same rivets. into 18Ga. #8 304 SS
If you need anything else, let me know.
Harry
You can be a nice guy when you really want to be. I guess you're not grumpy all the time.
Lew (second base, remember?)
There's one at TP Tools in Canfield Ohio for $85, but it's air operated requiring only 4 pounds of air to clinch. Prior experience would make me think twice about trying to pull larger rivets by hand.
Their web page is: www.tptools.com and the part number for the riveter is WL-M680.
Orren: I have used one of these air operated rivet guns and I doubt it will pull a 3/16" SS rivet. It takes a lot of leverage to pull & pop a SS mandrel. These air operated guns are great for production jobs with many mild steel or aluminum rivets to pull. The gun I suggested is rated for 1/4" steel rivets and should have no problem with 3/16" SS rivets.
Orren,
Thanks for the heads up, but I only have to do 6 (until the next Jimmy Buffett concert) so the manual one should work ok, even for a girly-man.
Big Harry,
Ordered my stuff from McMasters last night. I'll tell you that their website is one of the best I've seen when it comes to ordering parts. Comprehensive, intuitive and extremely easy to use. Will keep them in mind for the future.
Can't wait to tackle this job.
Thanks everyone for the help.
MM
So Mike, are you replacing or repairing? Just curious...I mean you did have a metals class, or did you get distracted by the H3 pulling in during the class.;)
Dale,
I was distracted, but it was your wife and not the H3 ;)
I'm going to try to beat it into submission, otherwise the whole bay door has to be replaced. I should've paid closer attention to you and Harry. Plan B is to take it to the local body shop and have them straighten the superstructure. I have the replacement SS from IBP, and waiting for my tools to come in from McMasters. Will be posting pixs and story soon on prevoman.com.
Mike
I saw the post about the differnet size rivets and since I'm about to replace a few panels I emailed IBP aobut it and here is their reply.
Jeff
The only rivets we carry is the 1/4". We used to get our rivets from
Prevost, but they told us that their vendor was going to discontinue the original Prevost rivets because new coach panels are glued on instead of being riveted and rivet sales dropped to almost zero.
Thanks.
Howard
So then, the answer is to buy from the supplier referenced before (by Harry I think) and then have them polished elsewhere ?
Jeff
Jeff,
I'm getting all the rivet goodies that Harry recommended this week and will be installing the new panel by Saturday. I'll let you know how things worked out and the size rivets used, etc.
Mike
Ok Mike. Thanks.
Harry or anyone- Is it neccessary to order the factory size rivits from McMasters and have them polished or is it that big of a deal to use the 1/4" from IBP's ? I think getting them polished would be a hassle for me. Also, someone mentioned that the type of rivet gun neccessary was special. Instead of going back to Prevost in Mira Loma (I'm still in the area but 50 miles away) I was just going to go by a body shop and let them put the panels on with the polished rivets I supply. Will the typical body shop have the right rivet gun? I think the answer is going to be "for the price, go ahead and buy the right one from the listed supplier". If I just decide to do it myself I guess the only other thing needed is a good quality drill bit (what size ?).
Jeff: Go to mcmaster.com and put the part number 97524A044 into the blank space. It will take you directly to the rivets. Read the other things on the thread I sent Mango. How many panels, and which location are you talking about. As far as polishing the rivet heads you can do it your self with metal polish and a rag. It will take a long handled rivet gun to pull the 3/16" ss rivets and snap the ss mandrel.
Harry-
I ordered the parts you recommended including the extension and the rivets. Thank you.
Big Harry & Dale,
The bottom panel, along the rivet lines, had some sort of adhesive to the superstructure. When attaching the new ss panel, what element should I use, if any? Would just regular silicone serve the purpose - I want to make sure I'm doing this right, because I'm only doing it once.
Thanks
Mike
Mike, Black silicone will work, it seals out the dust and moisture, your doing great. I seen the word NEW, you naughty naughty boy!
Mike,
I saw where you suggested you have to beat the bay door structure back to shape. It may cost a few lewbucks, but if you have a metal working shop nearby (such as a company that does AC ductwork or a custom metal fab shop) they will have a press brake or regular press.
With a few blocks to support the ends or a flat forming block they can exert the tonnage you need to straighten out the Buffet bent panel. What may take you a lot of time to do will take only minutes.
But I tend to avoid relying on others, it is probable you already have the tools. If you can rest the panel on blocks and sit a jack on the panel directly under a bus support point you have several tons of power at your disposal. The key to repairing it is where is it bent, and can you put the straightening force in the right place?
Jon,
I bought a large workbench vice and manhandled that to do some straightening, along with a mini sledge and bad language.
Plan B was to go to a body shop, however I wanted to try it myself first, screw it up and end up by paying even more when I show up hat in hand.
BUT... You're idea about the 22 ton bus press is a great idea and I'll keep it in mind for the future.
Your comment in another thread about this group amassing a great deal of info in a short period of time is right on the money - we can conquer the world ;)
Mike
Mango: I'm not aware of what Jon is refering to, but what he is saying makes sense if indeed you have a bent door panel. You always have to get the base structure back in place before adding the outer trim panel. Dale is correct on the silicone, but a very thin coat, so it won't bulge the panel out. clamp it tight before riveting if you can. I'm sending you a private message, check it out.
Mango,
I've found the perfect book for you :D
http://rvbookstore.com/shop/images/2/f/883.jpg
It can be purchased for only $9.95 here:
http://rvbookstore.com/shop/detail.aspx?p=883&m=2
That's a lot cheaper than a new rub rail, so go buy it before the next Jimmy Buffet concert rolls around :eek:
Ben,
Can I get that in a Braille Edition?
MM
Mango,
I didn't know your eyes were THAT bad. No wonder you scrape up the sides of your bus... maybe what you really need are bifocal rear view mirrors and some 6' curb feelers.
Or is it that you just like the tactile sensation of scraping your fingers (or bus) across rough surfaces? :D
Note to Ben:
When you break someone's gonads about dents and dings, it would be prudent to avoid dinging your coach at all costs. Guys like JW lurk in the background waiting for the smallest mis-step so he can light that flame thrower.
Mike- Did you get the panel job done and what can you share to help me do mine regarding pulling and putting the new rivets. I wasn't aware the rivet tool was used to remove the rivets as Harry suggested. I thought you used a drill to remove them. Maybe it is a combinatino of both ? Duh, huh, huh. Goober here trying to sort it out. I haven't gotten the tools delivered from McMasters yet. Also, how did you polish the rivets ? I was thinking of holding onto the rivets one at a time with vise grips and using a dremel with a minture polishing wheel. Wonder how long it would take to the whole bus this way ? Duh, huh, huh.
Jeff,
I sent you a PM a couple of days ago about the rivet job.
I finished my panel job today and am taking tonight off from the restaurant to take my sweetie out to dinner (via the bus) to Annapolis, MD. I have the goods for you but will have to post later. A quickie - you don't have to polish the rivet heads.
Mike
Jeff,
This should get you where you want to be. Any more questions just let us know.
Mike
http://www.prevoman.com/Pages/Panel%.../Panelpg1.html
Mike you can use this site to practice parking,;) thought it might help to keep down the stainless dings. But who am I to talk right, I left the engine bay doors open while backing with a trailer.:(
http://www.107.peugeot.co.uk/peugeot.swf
PS... uses the spacebar (brake) and arrow keys (left/right for turning and up/down for forward/reverse) on your keyboard.
My low so far is 96.9
Very fun, but I haven't completed it yet!!!
Alright. That's better 75.6
I finished but didn't see the final score. Now I have to do it again.
Dang.
71.6
A parking fool.
Winchester you dickhead !! After I sent it to you you bragged that you did it in 29 seconds. You turd shooter.