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As part of a discussion here at " The Florida Mini Rally" I said that I had a link to Norgren part numbers for the valves used on our coaches. I purchase my valves and parts directly from Norgren. Here is a link to the parts list
http://www.norgren.com/document_reso..._Nug%20200.pdf
Truk said he would post it somewhere under spare parts so it would be easy to find.
Lee,
I've been to the sight before and talked to the Norgren facility in Atlanta, but could not cross over the Prevost part numbers. I actually had the plastic parts bag that Prevost received from their Distributor and still couldn't cross over the coil and valve numbers for the 5 port manifold. Do have anyway to identify the part numbers for the most common valves, 5 port manifold, 3 port, coils, valves, etc.?
You have to make this easy for us!:p
It has been my experience that the only part needed is the spool and actuator O ring for the 3 and 5 port valves. If I can get into the garage sometime today I can provide those numbers.
Having said that I have gone both directions with respect to Norgren valves. I have used new ones and I have used valves I rebuilt. When using any valves, because of the PITA it is to find suspension system leaks I have gotten into the habit of bench testing them, new and rebuilt, before using them. I just made a little hose and fitting rig so I could put pressure to the valve, actuate it and verify it is leak free. My definition of leak free is zero bubbles.
I am now leaning away from rebuilding unless I have a lot of time on my hands. There are two issues with Norgrens as they age. First, as everyone knows the rubber parts such as the O rings on the spool and actuator begin to allow leaks. The second issue is if any moisture has gotten into the system the internal valve body surfaces can exhibit corrosion and leaks will occur regardless of the condition of the O rings. Admittedly any minor corrosion or pitting may not allow leaks, especially when the lubricant on the spools fills the microscopic voids, but leakage will again occur much sooner than with new valves.
A final concern is the screws holding the end caps are steel, and the valve body is aluminum and when the two are put together galvanic corrsion occurs and sometimes the screws will break resulting in the loss of the valve.
So I am now using the following to guide me. If I have time and want to play in the garage I will rebuild my Norgren valves. I will only rebuild valves that have no indication that moisture was ever present. I will never install any valve without bench testing it for leaks because once installed chasing leaks is a frustrating time consuming project.
As a final note, the valves we use on our coaches are standard off the shelf valves and Prevost has them given proprietary numbers for their purposes. If you wish to you can buy the valves from other than Prevost, but you must provide the generic description such as number of ports, type of actuator, fitting size, etc. to get what you need.
OH you want easy !
54237-56 is for the 5 port
54237-59 is for the 3 port
54452-02 is a 12 volt solenoid coil
54452-03 is a 24 volt solenoid coil
54344-16 is a air pilot kit
46350-58211 is a complete air pilot
These are repair parts numbers for complete valves you need to assemble the parts numbers to form a complete valve. when I get some time I will try to spell out the common numbers.
I always inspect the bore before rebuilding. I always use permatex on the screws.
And it would be nice if Norgren did. A lot of broken screws would otherwise be saved.Quote:
Originally Posted by lndycht
I must ask the question, if rubber o-rings are suspect/deteriorating in less than acceptable times, might not a different manufacturer of them be a logical move? Would there not be a way to replace the steel screws with like material to get around that problem. And, as most all of us know, if moisture is a major culprit, might we not add an additional air dryer arrangement that would be easily serviced? I realize that it incurs time/effort and $$$, just my 3 cents worth (inflation). Or for that matter, a valve other than Norgren (could prove problematic if lines do not match).
Norgen is the valve of choice used by Prevost. To answer your first questions, there is nothing stopping you from taking a new valve and replacing the O rings with the best O rings available for the application (assuming the ones supplied are not the best choise) and using Never Sieze or some other thread compound to ease disassembly. However, as a practical matter I changed mine at 10 years (an arbitrary number I chose) not because they all had failed, but because the leans were strarting to show up. I think ten years for less than $1000 worth of parts is a pretty cheap price. I like the Norgrens because if the systems are maintained they are extremely reliable and as simple as an anvil.
As to moisture, if our systems are well maintained the air will be dry. When I have seen moisture in the system the air dryer hasn't been serviced in forever and the auxiliary air compressor was left to maintain pressure but it did not have a dryer or moisture trap or if it did, nobody serviced it. I bleed tanks every 5000 miles and change the dryer element every 24 months (20,000 to 30,000 miles) and so far have never seen moisture in my tanks (except for the wet tank) and especially in my air system.
On my coach there are six drain points for moisture in the air system 4 tanks and two filter/collectors. When I purchased the coach I rebuilt the air dryer which had not been apart in 120K miles.
The two filter/collectors were the same way. When I ordered replacement filters the box they came in looked like it came over on the Mayflower. I wonder how many owners are aware that there are filters in the system and how many actually get changed. My auxiliary air filter was almost plugged with debris and rust.
I rebuilt a lot of my norgren valves in place without even removing the air lines. I believe that most of them fail due to lack of lubrication, once the assembly lube goes away they run dry rubber on a dry bore and therefore wear away the sealing surface.
Air bubbles in KC.....
I have a leaking Norgren valve.... my first one.... # K9-10080. This one is on the curb side rear engine compartment above one of the electric boxes. I have no idea what this valve controls at this time and need to research in addition to replacement.
Their has been posts on getting replacements from Prevost and Norgren direct. I checked today with Prevost parts getting a quote @ $160.00. Does someone have the Norgren source ? Saw the post above but did not find my valve number.
Al from the Norgren website
http://store.norgren.com/us/en/list/...ol-valves/2/10
I think you have to set up an account to get a price
The only problem I see with Norgren valves repairs is that the little screws that hold the ends on become fused to the aluminum block and the screw heads break off.