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[FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']My toilet doesn't work again, but this time it's the air. I checked the aux air tank, 30psi, the compressor isn't coming on, and I checked the fuse, it's ok. So I don't know what the deal is, I'm assuming something is frozen, so if anyone has suggestions for me on what I can do to fix this, I'd appreicate it.[/FONT]
[FONT='Calibri','sans-serif']Geoff[/FONT]
Do you have power to the compressor? When something doesn't run the first thing to check is if it has power. Start downstream from the fuse or circuit breaker and work towards the compressor. BTW, the apparent presence of power is sometimes an illusion. You can get a reading with the multitester, but there is not enough of a connection to carry a load so do not ignore corroded fittings or terminals.
I didn't check, it's too damn cold! I'm going to have to struggle through trying to check power for it, I guess that would be the first thing to check, how could the cold cause the compressor to stop running, it has to be something with the power. Are there any common reasons for the compressor to stop working? I didn't change a thing, haven't noticed any power issues at all, no CB popped, no switches changed...I dunno. I'm just getting frustrated, wouldn't be so bad if it wasn't so damn cold!
When you check for power you will have your answers. I seriously doubt if the temps in VA are so cold that they play a factor unless you have a system plugged with frozen water. When is the last time you purged moisture?
How did the compressor sound the last time it ran? Often there are clues before something fails. Is this the original compressor, and if it is does it have brushes or is it AC powered? If it is DC are the brushes OK?
Is it in a heated bay? Even if the CB hasn't popped how do you know the pressure switch has not failed? Do you know if you have power to the CB?
I checked for power and I got my answer, and another question. First, I had/have power all the way to the compressor. In frustration I wacked the compressor housing, and it started! I don't know how standard they are, but there are two parts to mine, the top that has the valves and the power enters to it there, then the bottom that acctually does the compressing, and has the wires from the top to it, this bottom part is the part I wacked and started.
Ok, so what does this mean?
Every month, I do what I hope is purging the water, I open the valve at the aux tank until the water/moisture stops comming out, is this enough? I'm sure my compressor is original, and I believe it's DC, it's how I measured the power by setting my meeter to ADC 20v. I'm not sure about pressure switch, or if it's relevant anymore now it's running.
Are you trying to test our psychic powers?
How about pictures. You could be talking about a pressure switch that stuck and when you whacked it the compressor worked, or you could be talking about the compressor itself.
Take a photo and then explain what you whacked.
Attachment 4031
1000 words worth I hope.
Should I just replace the compressor, if so where do I get one? I've only seen ones with the tanks at the local stores, I guess I'll have to look online, any suggestions on brand/model and specs?
Geoff,
If you are going to replace the pump, I would call Marathon and ask them what kind of pump you need. I found them to be very helpful when it comes to that kind of stuff.
One of the advantages of owning a Marathon is that they are still open for business!
AJ
That box on the top is the pressure switch. Whacking that could have jarred the switch loose. Don't consider the compressor dead just yet.
That switch is typicaly a well control switch and usually is available at such remote places as Home Depot or Lowes. Check to make sure the replacement is adjustable over the range you need if you determin it is the switch.
My switch hung up about 2 years ago and I persuaded it to work with a tap from a wood handled screw driver. It has not acted up since.
'Tapping or wacking' these small DC motors in to working is an old trick control techs used in the old days. Small DC motors are widely used in control systems for chemical injection, etc. These DC motors are typically configured with an armature and a carbon composite set of brushes. When power is applied, the orientation of the brushes versus the armature winding will start the DC motor turning.
What normally happens after time and usage, the carbon brushes 'arc' on the armature enough to create a coating that acts as an insulator between the armature control contacts and the brushes.
The fix is to remove the armature, and clean the armature contact end with 300> grit sand paper and contact cleaner. Use caution when cleaning with the sand paper, remember the armature control end needs to be round to prevent 'brush hop' which will cause un neccessary arcing. When the armature end is shiny clean, your done. Inspect the brushes and if still servicable, re install and you are back in operation. While the motor is disassembled, replacing the motor bearings will assure higher reliability of the motor.
This process generally takes labor, but can return the motor to service.
Hopes this helps. And others have stated, this is my two cents.
Hector
I think that is AC. Hard to tell from the picture.
I'm not sure (AC/DC), but I did set my multimeter to ADC 20a and got 13.something. Ok, I just did this for the thrid time, one little tap on the compressor starts it immediatly, but wont run without my friendly reminder. Does anyone have instructions (with pictures preferably) for a layman to do the work described above?
Yankee,
I replaced the one on my coach about 5 years ago. I took the # s off of the old one and called Marathon. They sent it. I would price the same thing at Granger.
I thought mine had gone on the blink this past summer and I am the proud owner of one and not using it. It cost in the range of $260 at Grangers. I have a feeling you'll fine one. The box on top is some sort of controll which is adjustable. Get someone to look at the box that knows something more than you and I.
Here is another question, could I replace the compressor with a more powerfull one so that I could run air tools and fill my tires above 100psi?
Geoff, You can install a larger one as long as the amperage draw is no more than the original one. This assumes that weight or space is not an issue.
Yank, see this thread for a little device that doubles air pressure..
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...ster+regulator
Some of the guys have purchased a small portable 'pancake' air compressor which they carry with them.
Are the compressor installed in Liberty's AC or DC powered?
GregM
Greg: The 97 Liberty and the 03 CC I have had were both AC Compressors
Greg,
Mine is AC.
OOPS!
My Country Coach aux air compressor is 12 volt DC (Thomas p/n-405adc38/12). I thought they all would be.
Still learning!
Hector
Mine is 110 vac
My bus has a Gast Oilless Air Compressor.
Model 2Z868 aro $486.00
Sold at Grainger.
1/3 HP
2 cylinders
115 V AC
8.2 Amps
60Hz (mine runs fine on modified sine wave inverter)
13"L x 10 7/8"W x 5 7/8"H
28.4#
Rated continuous duty 100 psi max
JIM