ISRI seat info

Hi all,

So I rebuilt my ISRI drivers seat and I thought I would pass along this info.

$5.00 bucks and a used air regulator and I had a custom air controlled seat.

Attachment 16165

the 4mm ( 1/4" air line " black tube " ) is reduced with a fitting that is not available, I had to build this connector, it's 1/4" X 2.44mm.

the tubing ( yellow ) is 2.44mm, I found this at my local Parker fitting store.

here is the receipt so you can see exact part numbers.

Attachment 16166

I also installed a air regulator that supplies air to the airbag under the seat, now I can adjust the air pressure for a softer ride, It works really well. I put the regulator behind the drivers seat to the left.

Hope this helps someone.

Good info.

The seats if they do not have a ride height valve like isri would use an pneumatic up and down button where u used the regulator. Result would be the same.

The other added advantage of losing the stupid ride height valve in the seat besides the ability to adjust pressure is when making a hard right turn when u pull yourself up out of the seat to get that wide angle view of the right mirror ....when u go to sit back down the seat still retains its air and u dont end up bottomed out sitting on the floor waiting to come back up.

Attachment 16167

If prevo wanted to make a great improvement to their product they would chuck the ISRI for Bostrom.They r a lot less trouble way less doe and give the same ride.

Got really tired of that ISRI seat, replaced it today with a seats driving seat, what a difference.

Electric and air up n down still work, anyone need parts ?

Rick

As of today the deepest i will go into one of these IRSI is identifying any leaks and plugging the air source in the bay below. I avoid all unnecessary agitation and ive plenty of other work. Will not order parts nothing.

I was the dummy that actually fixed mine. Removed entire seat with base and set it on the dinette table. Yes it was a PIA. Mine had a broken small diameter air line. After buying 4mm line and connectors from different sources, I could not come up with a combination that would stay together for any length of time. Had a truck shop attempt same thing and after a couple hours they gave up. So I ordered new airbag AND switches/manifold from Prevo thinking (as did the Prevo parts guy) those 2 together should be enough small diameter line. I had already tried ordering just line from Prevo and what I got was too big.

So.....re-install seat with new parts. All's good until a few inches from max height and airlines on the new components pull apart. Almost, but NOT QUITE long enough.

Thanks to Jason at Willingham Inc who sent me some "proprietary" ISRI connectors - that are not avail for sale as parts??? I was able to splice in a section of old line to make it work.

And to add, I had called ISRI in U.S. and was told they were in the process of moving and the "bus and coach" guy that had been there for a few decades they had let go.

These seats aren't very user friendly parts wise.

Ok so i was ready to install my drivers ISRI today and when i went to plug in the airline it crumbled in my hands. Was I surprised? No, not since i have replaced a bunch of other crumbly rubber seals and other tubing. So i dove into the seat, its actually pretty straight forward and simple, i don't have any paperwork or info on mine, best guess is it's a 6000 series frame with a country coach covers and seat pads. Mine is manual with air suspension and has 2 bladders that can be filled via 2 buttons on the side of the seat. I will replace the airlines , test and reassemble. It also gives me a chance to touch up the spots i missed with the leather Dye.

http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17179&stc=1
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17180&stc=1
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17181&stc=1
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17182&stc=1

All of u out there with ISRI getting 15 or 20yr old. If u begin to have any issues. What Mike is doing here is only correct way to fix it right. It's no small task. Mike I might add I see u left the base of the seat in and with good reason. However that line going to the airbag is the same crumbly crap dont leave it.

Bandaid repairs on these dont last long.

Attachment 17184

Their lines r proprietary although one of the sizes is equal to 1/4 the constitution of the line is more rubber than plastic of a 1/4 dot air line. Above is a barbed adapter they have to get u to that other dimension that really dont match up with a standard.

Attachment 17185

Attachment 17186

The small rings r to squeeze and hold the lines to the barb they pull and twist away. The smaller end of those rings towards the splice not the other way around.

Attachment 17187

Attachment 17188

Bam. I see where Midguy has come up with a parker line that crosses however look where it inserted on the back of the lumbar button. The more plastickystiffer replacement risks breaking the plastic barb out the back of the switch pushing it on and I'm not sure if u can even reuse a ring.

Mike if it hasent already begun u r going to be getting solicited. A guy could probably stay real busy just rebuilding these seats

See attached, I think it is much easier to work on the seat with the seat cushion and back slip cover removed.

http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17189&stc=1
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17190&stc=1
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17191&stc=1

Hey Joe, I bought a 4" aux air gauge, i am going to mount it where my old Backup camera was.
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/...id=17192&stc=1

Fortunately u have an airbag that has a fitting. There r others that have a crimp on a line that enters at the bottom. U can feel the difference in the constitution of that line it's more rubber than plastic. Proprietary to the seat dont think a standard 1/4 I n line would work.

Zoom in on the ride height valve and the linkage while its blown apart so everybody can get a look of that too.

Make sure you check the valves on the seat control...after I put the lumbar in mine, the only leak was the actual valves..both leaked.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pete

Make sure you check the valves on the seat control...after I put the lumbar in mine, the only leak was the actual valves..both leaked.

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For sure, all connections were tested as well as the bladders. The ride height valve needs to be tested with the seat moving up and down also to make sure you check air on both plungers. I also soaped around the bladder. I pumped up the 2 bladders in the back of the seat and 24 hours later they were still at pressure. Should be good to go.