This article was written by a friend of mine - As well as being extremely knowledgable about the Towing Industry he is also a Prevost Owner.
http://prevost-stuff.com/John_Hawkins_Tow_Article.html
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This article was written by a friend of mine - As well as being extremely knowledgable about the Towing Industry he is also a Prevost Owner.
http://prevost-stuff.com/John_Hawkins_Tow_Article.html
Where did I read or did I read that Allison Transmissions says to not tow one of our coaches even 150 feet?
What is the answer??? Does any one know? What do we do?
I am wondering if the comment was made at United Engines in OK City a couple of years ago.
This picture here shows the coach under way? What did they do to get it that way?
Did they in fact take the U-joint out? Does the transmission still turn?
Pres
I had mine towed last summer in Fl. They removed the drive axle to tow it rather than disconnecting the U-joint.
O K Gang:
Rather than guess any longer, I took the steps necessary to get a truly professional opinion regarding my questions. I called United Engines in Oklahoma City, OK which many of you will remember from the POG meeting held there about two years ago. After a discussion with Andy there, he referred me to Car Cab Towing (800 670 6114). United Engines uses them nation wide ( at least in 33 states where they operate.) Glenn at Car Cab stated that under no circumstance should the coach be towed even 200 feet without relieving the transmission.
They use two processes:
Number 1)
If the Prevost has on its rear axles a cap that is called a "high hat", approximately four of the lugs holding on the cover for the axle and the wheel are one and the same. If they encounter this problem, they generally will have to disconnect the drive axle if they can get under the coach... understanding the risks that entails. He stated it is almost impossible in the field to be able to remove the axle and wheel required given most normal roadside difficult situations.
Number 2)
If, once the chrome covering on the rear axle is removed it reveals a moon shaped seal held in place with several small lug nuts, these will be removed and the axle taken out of the rear end thus disabling the turning function and allowing the coach to be towed. I happen to have this type of rear end covering.
He further stated they have "under lifts" which are required for towing which lift the front of the coach as demonstrated in the picture provided in the earlier thread. He stated if their low boy long trailer is used, the coach would still be about 17 feet tall and that is an obvious problem. Car Cab Towing was most helpful and I am adding their name to my list of potential vendors I hope to never have to use.
Pres
.
Ok Gang.....I think that terminology is getting in the way here. #1..You don't remove the drive axle as previously stated. You remove the hub cap or the decorative cap if there is one revealing what is called the drive hub. On the drive hub will be the axle shaft with numerous nuts and you remove one axle shaft from either side of the coach. Sometimes employing a sledge hammer beating on the axle shaft facilitates its removal. Be sure to have a container to catch the gear lube that will come out of the hub when the shaft is loosened. Cover the removed axle shaft with a garbage bag to keep it clean for reinstallation. Also cover the hole with card board or plastic to keep the gear lube from leaking out more while being towed. "KISS" rules are to be remembered.
Ed
Not that it matters but I stated that the axle was to be removed. I don't think I said the drive axle but I may have. I do think if you have the more difficult type, you have to disconnect the drive shaft. I really do not know how long or where the drive shaft is underneath the coach. Being a rear engine / rear drive...how long is the drive shaft?
But at least you agree with the analysis? It really sounds like a mess.
Keep me straight.
Pres
Whether to pull the axels or remove the drive shaft should be left up to the tow operator. Some drivers feel confident under the coach, some don't.
ALWAYS allow the tow operator to make this choice. If an accident happens, you will not be to blame.
When we have to tow a coach, here what we prefer to see:
First choice - Load the coach onto a 'Landoll' style tilting trailer.
Second choice - Remove driveline
Third choice - Remove axels
Ok Capt Mogul is correct in his description as to how mine was towed. I guess my terminology was wrong..
Actually this is the correct terminology. The 'drive axle' is the shaft that would need to be removed from the 'axle housing' to tow the vehicle without the differentian turning the transmission.Quote:
Originally Posted by sswindle14260
We just attended a Wild Bunch rally in Sevierville and they had a "towing" seminar - A local company sent out a big rig tow truck with the proper lifts. The seminar was well attended and extremely well received - I think a towing seminar would be a great idea at any rally, but especially at Las Vegas.
I have learned a couple of good lessons from having the unfortunate experience of having to get the bus towed. Over the first five years we owned our old XL we had to have it towed four times.
The first time was 50 miles from Houston when the speed sensor went out. It took two different companies to finally get it figured out. The second company ended up bringing a Landoll flatbed trailer and loaded the coach onto the trailer and hauled it 50 miles to Stewart & Stevenson in Houston. The first tow truck driver had a large enough truck but could not figure out how to get sufficient clearance to get the lift under the front axle (this was a 92 XL with the straight front axle). I had the question about bridge heights and the tow truck driver showed me a book with bridge heights and the route to Houston to avoid a convertible conversion. These guys knew their stuff.
The second time was in New Mexico when we blew the engine at 1:30 am. I was concerned that we would spend the night on the side of I-40 given the first towing experience which took 7 hours to get the bus finally on its way to Houston. This time the driver knew his business. I mentioned the clearance issue that we had the first time. He was familiar with the problem and had two large 8 inch tall wooden blocks that he used. The trick the tow truck driver showed me as the need to lift the front end of the bus and put blocks under the wheels so that there was enough clearance to get the lift mechanism under the front axle (it was a non-IFS bus at the time). We towed it 120 miles to Stewart & Stevenson in Albuquerque for a engine rebuild - the cause was a clogged radiator. This guy new his stuff. Lesson learned - with a straight axle bus the tow truck operator may need to lift the front of the bus and use blocks to properly get the lift under the axle. I would assume with a wheel lift this is not necessary.
The third time we had to tow the bus was for a fire caused when the voltage regulator died and caused the chassis battery equalizer and chassis batteries to catch on fire. No problem this time with the tow as the driver knew the lift the front and use blocks tricks.
The fourth time (I would like to say final, but I don't want to upset the bus gods) we had to tow the bus was when one of the connectors on the ECM failed and the bus would not start. No problem with the hookup but on a sharp turn the passenger mirror hit the back of the tow truck lift mechanism. I unfortunately did not see it until I picked the bus up from Stewart & Stevenson and the tow truck driver denied it even though there was a scratch with paint that matched the tow truck boom. From this I learned to swing the passenger side mirror against the windshield or door if you need to tow.
With the three tows (not the one of the trailer), each operator disconnected the drive shaft from the transmission to the differential. I asked two of them about pulling the axle shaft and they said it was easier and cleaner to remove the drive shaft. They only only removed the drive shaft after the bus was hooked up and hoisted (creates more room to get under the bus).
I hope to avoid the "wee wee all the way home" tow in the future.
MAN O MAN LOC, I'm thinking you should do a Towing Seminar at our next Rally.
Loc's name is still spoken with reverence at the old age "tow truck retirement home".
They built a new building in his honor in New Mexico from what I understsnd.
Pres
This is a NOTE from the Author of the Article I have been in the towing and recovery business for 35 years. This industry is a dying breed of Americana Seeing that most everything we have gone toward publicly traded companies. As stated in the article tow operators are family business 2nd-3rd-and even 4th generation All successful for still being in business. I just returned for the UK and the EU teaching and educating, and today only China (thought changing quickly) has government based operations. Jamie and I are long time boating friends from Chattanooga. When we ran into each other at this year Tampa show, we where both shocked to see that we had traded our Sea Ray's for Prevost coaches!!! I was pleased when he asked me to post this article. Because, if you know what to do by taking just a few moments to read and store the article and information I outlined, IF and I hope IF, you require assistance it will help. Also, my email address is jhawkins@millereind.com, the I phone is always on 24/7. See you in Indy at the FMCA rally, I will be doing four live seminars on Tuesday and Wednesday. Going to attend please stop by. PS I hope you watched the short video clip Jamie post just above----pictures do a lot to explain how. Also, the drive shafts are the preferred method. Good Luck