Printable View
I have been struggling to get our old GE refrigerator to run properly. If I cant figure this out, I will need to replace the unit. It is a side by side with water and ice in the door.
I am looking for feedback on refrigerators that will run on my Vanner modified sine wave inverters. If anyone has replace theirs, I would like to know what make/model you chose and how it is working out.
Thanks!
Also, some manufacturers claim that the bottom freezer layout is more energy efficient. Does anyone have experience with these in a bus?
I replaced the compressor, and every moving part in my fridge for about $400.00 in parts. A friend helped me change everything out, works great.
I was told the old coils were better than the new fridges.
Norman Martin
2000 XL CC 60408
Mark,
Being an engineer with a thermal background I was intrigued by the premise that bottom freezers were more efficient. After thinking about it a while I actually disagreed. So I went digging to find more authoritative answers. I did find a few references and claims online that stated "According to US Dept of Energy... top freezers use less energy than bottom freezers...". But I did NOT find any such statement directly by DOE themselves. So I question the legitimacy of those vendor claims.
From a strictly engineering perspective of efficiency the most loss is when you open the door. So if you want to reduce your energy consumption by the unit, stop opening it so many times and quickly close it. The bottom/top argument seemed to pale in comparison to the 'teenager' dilemma. (teenager opens door of fridge, stares at the contents for 60 seconds trying to figure out what they want to eat...)
My experience is that the side-by-side is most convenient as it provides the most commonly used items (fridge and freezer side) to be accessible at the most convenient height without having to bend down. But that's just personal opinion.
Of course a bottom freezer unit would likely be cheaper than a top freezer unit. Simply based on market demand, not necessary the real cost to build the unit. But then why not go with a unit that does NOT have frost-free. I bet you can pick those up for a bargain these days. On second thought.. bad idea.
Hope that helps.
Thanks Joe ... good thoughts. Yeah, I would be looking for a frost free for sure. That is the problem that we are trying to solve. I have replaced the defrost timer, the defrost thermostat, the evaporator fan and motor, the defrost heaters, etc. Even replaced the ice shoot door thinking that there might be moisture intrusion there... I can defrost the unit, and it will run fine for days or weeks. I have two graphing temp/humidity monitors in the freezer and refrigerator and you can clearly see the defrost system being activated but it just will not keep up I guess. (Norman: these parts were more than $400 so you got a smoking deal!) Then we open it up to put food in it and bingo, the evap coil will freeze solid in days. If we are on the road and we defrost it, it will be a block of ice again in 2 to 3 days. Of course when that happens temps in the freezer and refrigerator rise above acceptable levels. So definitely looking for frost free! Obviously I am missing something. I will be reaching out to some repair types in the next few days to see if we can solve this ...
Before I purchased my coach the previous owner had the same issues. It was cheaper to replace the compressor, coils, etc. Replacing the whole refrigerator would have meant that front windows would have to be removed to get it out, all at a considerable cost. My refrigerator doors have matching Vitricore laminate that match the kitchen cabinets and everything else in that area. Those two issues persuaded the owner to stick with an old refrigerator. My 28 year old refrigerator works like new!
I know a guy in Texas who can rebuild a refrigerator. He was a mechanic for Marathon from the early days. He runs his own business now.
Good Morning Chris:
Send me that guys name and number and I will reach out to him. Thanks!
Your inverter shouldn't matter and all fridges will work fine for power so its the physical size that matters. I just bought my Prevost this week but tomorrow we're attempting to move the fridge I just bought for my old coach to the Prevost. I researched a ton and went with a Frigidaire professional fridge only model. It uses very little power and has very stable temperatures. I log temps and power usage using Victron components so know exactly how well it does. With the compressor and everything running I think it only uses 130w.
We don't use a freezer for anything other than ice cream so we're planning a mini freezer or one of those portable fridge/freezers and putting either in a basement bay.
https://www.frigidaire.com/en/p/kitc...ors/FPRU19F8WF
There's almost no change a modern refrigerator manufacturer will support any inverter power. You would be best served to use a "True" or "Pure" sine wave inverter. Even if that means dedicating a small inverter to the refrigerator. There's little doubt all refrigerators will power up on a MSW inverter. The real question is how much the refrigerator's life be shortened, as it will be shortened. MSW inverters without a doubt will increase the compressor's temperature unless it's a DC powered compressor. The same is the case with the fans.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fratto
Thanks Gil. I have heard that before as well. I don't suppose that you know of anyone that makes a 120VAC to 120VAC power supply that you could just plug into the wall do you?