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This is merely an educated guess, so take it with a grain of salt.
As a compressor ages it will pass increasing amounts of oil. That oil as has been discussed will render the media in the dryer ineffective. When the media will no longer attract or hold the oil (or water) it will pass into the bus air system. Evidence that is happening will be detected in the area where the air dryer discharges that little shot of air at the end of every cycle.
If the area around the air dryer discharge is showing evidence of oil to me it indicates that the cartridge needs to be replaced, but also that the compressor may be in need of rebuilding or replacement.
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Maybe another test of the dryer is to watch for mositure when you drain the air tanks. If water is present as the tanks are drained the dyer may not be working. My brother-law runs ran a number of trucks and told me on his trucks if water was found they serviced the dyer
Larry W
2000 Royale
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Excellent suggestion with one word of caution.
It may be possible that if the aux compressor is run frequently such as when the bus is parked, that compressed air may not be passing through a dryer or moisture trap. That will show as water in the aux tank. That aux compressor air does not pass through the bus air dryer.
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Jon and others...
I had a question about brakes. When I back up, somthing I don't do much, I notice the brakes vibrate and make noise. I have noticed this since owning the bus. If I back real slow and brake light its worse. If I brake hard, no or not much noise.
Is there a way to flip shoes so they wear better? Seems when you brake going forward 99 pecent of the time maybe they wear in a certain way.
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A note on removing the brake drums first before removing the hubs from the axle. I used a air chisel to vibrate the bolts loose so I could remove them. After the 5 bolts were removed I couldn't get the drum off since it was rusted to the hub.
I took the whole assembly out side, turned upright and used a 1 inch pipe over the bolts and a sledge to break it loose. I have the two drive hubs done with the tag left.
I think to not damage the new seals it is going to be best to do it this way. There will be far less weight to contend with.
I don't think this has ever been apart in 21 years.
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If you use an auxiliary air compressor while the engine is not running and wet air gets into the system, then later you run the dryer while driving and dry air is added to the system.
This dry air will dry out the previously deposited water over a period of time so you may not get an indication by draining the tanks.
My personal plan is to service the dryer every 5 years.
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Dale, I have no clue what would cause that vibration, but it obviously is the brakes alternately grabbing and releasing. Are the brake shoe pivots tight? How are the return springs? Do you have any corrosion or pitting on the drums? Are the brake shoe linings oil soaked or glazed?
I have no answers whatsoever.
Good job on the seal replacement. Add tips to the procedure. When I do my disk brakes or replace a hub seal I will add to the procedure because as written it covers drum brakes.
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I'm kinda at a stand still. I have the tag hubs back together (except the oil) and I'm working on the drive axles.
The weather has been hanging around 20-30 degrees so that the 80-90 weight gear lube is more like 200-300 weight. If it would just warm up so I could finish this job.
I don't know if I like that countdown to POG3, it gives me an anxiety feeling.:)
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Dale,
If the countdown clock didn't change last weekend, you have one less hour than you think. Hurry!!
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When I filled the hubs on the front axle and the tags it was relatively warm and I would pour a little oil in and it would take forever to flow through the bearings. I would add a few ounces and then just wait for the oil to seep into place. It took forever. At your cold temperatures maybe you can get Jan to heat up your oil in one of her favorite pots.