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Hector,
Mike Clark assisted me with the procurement of the valve repair kit. He has a contact that is probably our best bet with Goyen parts.
At Jim Chaloupka's recommendation I disassembled my valve again today and turned the little rubber seal over. It is now leaking one drop every 30 seconds. I will probably install the kit once I receive it.
John G., The leak I have is internal to the valve. It leaks out the drain tube.
On my initial trip with my '93 CC I had one of the same valves fail. In my case it was on the valve which did the "auto-fill" stuff. I had attached the hose, hit the button, and the fresh water tank was filing up (all good).
But, when I turned the button off (the CC wasn't actually "auto"), the water didn't stop. The valve was dirty, and wouldn't close.
Now, I thought "shoot, that's no problem". IN my quick thinking, I turned off the water spigot. But when I turned on the water pump, because the valve was stuck open, the water pump just pumped water from the tank, back around through the stuck valve into the tank.
So for the remainder of that trip we had no water, no toilet no shower, other than using a bucket in the bathroom.
You don't want those valves sticking. The drain valve is a good one to stick if any are.
Ray
This is a lengthy, but very informative Thread. My "New Problem" is I can't seem to drain my fresh water tank completely. I doubt that I am draining more than 1/4 of the tank . The bus has sat for a while (3months, my bad), went to drain fresh water tank to sanitize & refill and it started draining just fine. When I came back, it had stopped, and I did not realize it had not had time to drain completely. I went to sanitize & refill and , whoops about 5 minutes of direct water (not using auto fill as it is much slower) and it was overflowing! Did this 3 times, and still not getting to drain more than 1/4 estimate. About to go out and find out which valve is malfunctioning, but questioning (since the valve when shut off does not leak) how it is closing before I operate the switch to close?
Rodger,
I assume you have a "normally-closed" valve, so it shouldn't leak when in the off position because it will stay closed. Maybe you are losing power to the valve or the valve is getting hot and closing on its on.
If you can put a voltmeter across the valve, you should be able to see if it is losing power during the draining process. If it does lose power, it could either be the valve or a problem in the circuit feeding the valve.
If you can put an amp meter in series with one side of the valve, you may be able to tell if it is getting hot and drawing more current than it should. If it does, you'll know the valve is bad.
Well, I picked the hottest part of the day to do this. Checked all 3 valves in Water Compartment, 2 behind the 2 pumps, and 1 inside of those which is connected to the bottom of my fresh water tank...the 2 that are easy to get to of course are ok, good voltage and draining albeit slow, the one for the bottom of the tank is a trickle, but is pulling 12volts,(did not check amps). All 3 valves seem to click and I can feel the solenoid moving when power comes on/off. I turned on my pumps and am of course getting good exit of water from those 2 valves as well as a valve that is on opposite side of bus but still just a trickle from the bottom of the tank. This leads me to believe I am going to have to pull both pumps out and some associated wiring to access the valve to pull it out and either replace (probably) or try to repair with a kit. I might still try amp test, but my guess is that it is opening/closing ok, just no flow...probably some bug or something. Yech and before I forget it, thanks Dale for your input.