I haven't looked that closely yet, but I wonder if there is a release on the slide coming out or if the screws have to be removed from the bottom frame and the entire frame removed together.
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I haven't looked that closely yet, but I wonder if there is a release on the slide coming out or if the screws have to be removed from the bottom frame and the entire frame removed together.
ALL IS WELL! With my soul and my generator! I decided that before I would try removing the generator, I would disassemble the bay on the other side and see what I could find. I had previously stuck my head and body in a hole where I removed a TV from the entertainment bay so I could make sure the fan was running. I had a built-in Jenn Air grill that I had to remove and some drawers.
To my surprise when I removed the inspection plate on the squirrel cage, I could readily tell the fan was not turning fast enough. I used a round screwdriver to put some pressure on the belt and the fan sped up significantly. The old one was stretched bad. It was probably the original. Purchased a new one and installed it.
I changed the antifreeze, oiled the fan and put everything back together and cranked it up and it started to get hot again. I shut it down, waited for it to cool, completely filled with antifreeze again and ran water through the top hose to force out all the air. Started again and turned on both house A/C units, the refrigerator, lights, etc. After almost an hour, the temperature was 190. What a relief. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I think Vantare uses a similar motor and belt system, so that may be something others want to check at some point.
The first picture shows the components I had to remove to get to the fan.
The 2nd one shows the duct work for the fan that goes to the generator. What is shown in the picture is actually half of the duct. It goes behind the other side of the cabinets also and pulls air from both sides of the generator compartment and exhausts it through the radiator below the plenum shown in the picture. There is also an opening covered by heavy mesh wire that allows air to be forced in the duct from the under the front of the bus while moving. This is a vertical opening right behind the front wheel.
The 3rd pictures shows how loose the old belt was. I was just barely pulling on it.
The 4th shows the new one installed.
Great news!
Good job Dale,
I was going to mention something like that but you beat me to it. Only because 2 days ago I serviced the Kohler and took the cover off the belt housing, very easy to get to and found some play in the belt. I believe it was on the verge of a problem. It normally runs 187 to 195 loaded up with outside temps in the low 100's. 2 days ago we were at 108 and I turned everything on for a 60 mile trip and the generator never got over 180 degreees.
Later
bv
Maybe you should invent an Idler pull for that set up as long as everything is already out of the way .)
That's sounds like a good idea Larry. I assume the reason there is no idler is that the bearings in those motors and fans wouldn't withstand a much pressure.
Dale, I know you must be happy about your findings. I could not imagine you would have to pull the genset to get at your radiator....is that still the case? Sounds like you are about ready to roll now. Congrats!
Pete,
I can access the radiator by removing the duct. The plenum shown on the left of the picture attaches over the radiator. I hope I don't have to do that any time soon. While I had the antifreeze out of the system, I flushed it with a flush that is supposed to dissolve any deposits rather then send them to the radiator to clog it up. Several times, I hooked the water hose to the top radiator hose and flushed the system. It appeared that water was flowing rather normally, so that is why I couldn't understand how the radiator could be clogged in the first place. I'm glad I listened to common sense and looked for other possibilities before removing the radiator.
Thanks for your help Dale