Pulling the alternator on 8V92

Mike,

This forum is populated by a bunch of wannabe mechanics. But as I read the posts and see the accomplishments of those among us I often wonder if we tend to not have the fiascos that we have all read because as owners we take our time and exercise a little care.

I know I do not know anything until I have a problem, and then have to analyze it, take stuff apart and repair it, tiptoeing along the way because I lack confidence so I want to be sure I do it right. So far, so good.

But then I read stories like yours, I read about axles being twisted off because bearings were not lubricated when seals were replaced, and guys who are supposed to be experts at Carrier systems causing bus fires.

I wish there was a way we could recognize incompetence in a mechanic before the mechanic is allowed to do damage. Just out of curiosity did the mechanic check the output of the new alternator after the installation? Second question...did he run your engine with the field wire disconnected for a while to get oil circulating (so as to not burn out diodes)? Are you aware that if the 24V output did get to the 12V system you could have widespread damage? I think the regulator may have seen the 24 volt output and shut down the alternator, likely damaging itself. Pray that is the case.

Mike,

I feel bad for what your going through, hang in there!

For those that face alternator problems, this should be a good lesson on how bad things can go when the service folks don't have clue on what they are doing. It's just like the later CC's, you would think that the big mama alternator on your series 60 is 24 volt, but in fact it's 12 and the small one is 24. Then you go to Marathon and the big mama is 24!:eek:

Mike I also feel bad for what you are going through. If your Karen needs some stress relief send her over to my Karen and she will take her shopping !

Remember, I'm right over here on the West Coast if I can send you anything or help in any way.

On our coach we only have 1 alternator it is the 270 amp 24 volt gear drivin model.

We also have both 12 and 24 volt house battery banks (2 sets of 4 batteries), in addition to the 4 chassis batteries.

All that was done was the lead comming from the the 12 volt house bank goes to the vanner and it is cut back to 12 comming out of there, that 1 alternator charges all 12 batteries with NO PROBLEM. NO ADDITIONAL REGULATOR EITHER.

They added a switch on the control panel to isolate the house from the charge if I so choose but if we are underway I will always have it on.

Our coach was originally all electric with an a/c d/c fridge that would have been on the d/c side while underway putting even more draw than it currently sees now that the fridge is propane, worked like a charm.

IMO a second alternator is not even nessessary accept if you like redundency and switching everything around as CC has done is beyond me.

Jon, To the best of my knowledge, he looked at the volt meter on the dash (only the 0-30 volt one) and said "all is good". They told me they took care to fill the new alternator with oil before installing it. The regulator may be toast, but the inverters and 12 Volt lighting (which was on in the coach) are still working fine. Looks like the regulator kept the alternator shut down. Had it run that voltage to the heat sink, I believe it would have melted. As the alternator was working (just leaking oil) they should have measured the voltage before pulling it or at least had it tested. I've owned the coach for 5 years and had no idea that the small "add on" unit was the 24 volt unit and the large one on the engine was a 12 Volt. The placard on the door outlines the "12 Volt charging system", so I assumed both were 12 volt. I expected the mechanic/parts department to take numbers off of the old unit and get its replacement. They instead helped out the Tampa office which had had a unit setting ont he shelf for several years and were anxious to get rid of it.

Thanks Jim, I'l pass that offer on to Karen. We stayed in a house for a week and both are gratefull for the coach and glad to be back aboard.

As a side note, I watch their Allison mechanic working on a fairly new transmission and wonder " I sure hope he knows what he's doing" as they are one complex piece of machinery. 50% of the repairs I've had done by ANY shop (except Liberty in Stuart Florida who worked on my Cruise Air) , have had to be at least partially redone. Seems like all RV techs are learning as they go.

Mike,

That is scary stuff. I always wonder first if I can trust the mechanic to do the job right and then if I can afford the cost of the work.

Also, another big headache when you are a fulltimer, as we are. It's almost traumatic to be without the bus when it's your (only) home!

If we can be of any help, please don't hesitate to get in touch.

[QUOTE=Jon Wehrenberg;



I know I do not know anything until I have a problem, and then have to analyze it, take stuff apart and repair it, tiptoeing along the way because I lack confidence so I want to be sure I do it right. So far, so good.


I wish there was a way we could recognize incompetence in a mechanic before the mechanic is allowed to do damage.
(Quote)= Jon Wehrenberg


Do you expect or act any differently with other professionals? (Or had more successful outcomes?):)

Mike, Where are you in this repair process ? Curious minds want to know. We are not far from Detroit Diesel in Tampa if I can help by shipping something to you. Did the parts come in from the Website you posted ?

Jim, Were waiting for the case for the alternator to come in from Kansas. When we get that (today, I hope) it goes to the rebuilder to move the "guts" over and test. If its good to go, we'll have it installed wed or thur..

Every day is an adventure. thanks for thinking of us.

Have we all a need to contact CC and see what they say about our individual conversions. This past thread has sent some shivers down my spine.