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Our Liberty is a Classic. Things are looking up a bit. With a new 25 amp charger applied, as opposed to my old 6 amp charger, the batteries are taking the charge.
Also, by disconnecting the equalizer ground wire, the mysterious "clicking" did stop.
My plan is to take each battery out of service and charge it at a time.
The up side to all this is, at least I'll have nice shiny, clean battery terminal connections!
However, I have not found an outlet for an engine block heater. I did, however, find what appears to be a 110v line that is wire-tied in a bundle and just "ends" .
I'm hoping that it's not a live 110 volt line without any type of protection....
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Paul,
On the Mothership the outlet was just a 110v wire with an outlet attached, and it was sort of hid behind the reserve oil tank, just above the engine doors. Should be a breaker in your inside power panel marked block heater (or something equivalent).
Mike
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Mike,
I think you've solved the mystery of my coiled 110 volt line.
It's wire-tied in a somewhat neat bundle just below the oil reserve tank and just above the air filter. And, I do have the breaker for the block heater that you described...... that's the good news.
The bad news is that the 110v bundle doesn't have any type of plug or receptacle on it.... kinda looks like the end of the wire was just cut off!
Good thing that breaker has been turned off !!
The closer I look at this bus, the better I understand it, and the more concerned I get about the way it was apparently treated in the past......
So, I guess the next step is to strip back some of the insulation on the 110 line, turn on the breaker, and test for voltage.
Then, I can get things set up in anticipation of the charger I've got ordered.
Luckily, I have no business EVER being in a place where an engine block heater would actually be necessary!
Thanks for the insight...
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Paul,
Sounds like you're on the right track. I would simply add a well constructed outlet to the cord, so that in the event you head north this winter, say to pickup some Jerk Chicken from Mango Mike's, you can still plug in the block heater. Of course, running the Webasto will also pre-heat your engine.
Mike
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Paul,
Your on the right track, but while the batteries are out and after a full charge, you should load test them to be sure you don't have a dead cell that would in turn drag down all the others.
The plug you and Mango are talking about will work for you, as I did the same thing on my Marathon. Don't be concerned about loosing your engine heating capabilities, your Webasco should do that. The plug would be for the 110V block heater that you may or may not have.
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Geez Trukman, just copy my entire post. Let's show some creativity.
;)
Mango
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Sounds like the Webasto will be my engine block heater of choice, should the need ever arise. I've vowed to remain south of I-4 between November and April.....
But that Jerk Chicken sure does sound good! Makes me hungry just thinkin' about it.
Now, where did she stow those margarita glasses???......
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Paul,
Have you found any loads that may have pulled the battery down? That is the real solution to the problem if it is not a battery that is failing.
I was going to repeat the above but Mango is a little testy today so I will just say he is right on the money.
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I would purchase a single gang waterproof box(Raco) & a in-use WP Taymac cover and a 20A,120V duplex recepticle. Install this to a convienant location with two #10x 1" self tapping screw. If the Block heater does not have a male cord cap on the cord, purchase a 20A,120volt male strait prong male cap .
I would have the ability to use your electric engine block heater, as you would not want to leave the Webasto on overnight or for 24 hours or more.
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I have not found the electrical loads that drew the batteries down in the first place... which, of course, is the root problem. Both the 12volt and 24 volt disconnects where "on" however, but I don't think that should have mattered in such a short time.
A new wrinkle is the engine block heater circuit. Having found what should have been the 110 volt wiring for the engine heater connection, I turned on the breaker but found no current at the end of the wires. I'm guessing that this bus may have never had a heater, but that seems so unlikely.
My next step will be to remove the cover from the CB panel and see if anything is connected to the breaker labeled for the EB Heater. I'm hoping that there will be nothing connected. But hopefully a "spare" run of wire will be found in the box. If I'm real lucky,it will even be labeled!
If that doesn't work out, my plan is to use a temporary extension cord while parked to power up the new charger.
It won't be pretty but should be effective...
