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Papa Jo
I removed and replaced one of the pumps. It is a basic function and you should have absolutely no issue with the project. I would not try to rebuild the pump because it is a very important part that operates under pressure and heat long term. Mine had cracked in the housing. Prepare to catch the anti-freeze in some type of container for environmental reasons ...but the spill should be very small, if at all. After you study the issues, they will be very obvious..... takes about an hour to exchange if that long once you get started...
Pres
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It is possible for one pump to run and not the other depending on thermostat settings. The Bay heat has it's own thermostat down in the cargo bay. Circulation of water can be determined by feeling the hoses going into and out of the pumps.
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1 Attachment(s)
Papa Jo,
Logic would suggest that each pump would be dedicated to the two main heating loops we have. Your findings are correct. Whenever the Webasto is on the pump connected with the brown wire is always on. I just verified this with the schematic and then turned on the interior heat and both pumps came on. If you only have the basement heat selected then only the brown wire connected pump will come on. When you have the interior heat on the blue wire connect pump will ALSO come on. BTW, this is not clearly evident when looking at the plumbing drawing.
So, why did fuses blow when you had both pumps jumped together? It would seem that the total load for both motors running at the same time exceeds the fuse ratings. Try this, disconnect the interior pump and connect the main pump to the blue wire. Now set your interior heat and thermostat to call for interior heat. This should activate the main pump and the system should run without the popping (boiling) sound and the fuses should not blow. If this works, then you need to determine why the main pump is not being supplied power. You have probably looked at the same drawing I did. The Webasto signals the main pump to come on. See if the Webasto is indeed signalling the main pump. If that is good, you will have to look at the main control board in the ECC where I believe you'll find the relay that energizes the main pump circuit.
You asked about the impeller. It is simply pressed on the motor shaft. Here's what the impeller looks like:
Attachment 13583
I have replaced one of the two pumps and the job isn't hard. I turned off the engine coolant valves near the engine. Unlike Reagan, I had a lot of coolant escaping. I used pinch clamps on the hoses to limit coolant loss. I bought my pump from Midwest Bus Parts. I also bought a repair kit for the pump. As you can see from the photo, I have yet to get around to putting the repair kit in. My pump had a leaking shaft seal.
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Ok Gil, Good post and glad you confirmed my theory. I tried your sugestion and you were correct in the main pump came on and worked just fine. So started working back to see why pump circuit H14 was not getting power. I have power coming out of the Webesto controller on Yellow and green H19 & H34 which goes back to the ECC - Since the ecc is sending power back out for the interior circuit I believe this part of the circuit is all good. This is where I get lost. Is the relay for the pump circuits on the board or one of the lower stand alone relays at the bottom right of the cabinet? I checked all fuses on the board and along the bottum of the cabinet and all are good? I noticed you are in Beaverly Hills Florida, I am over at the Florida Grand in Webster.
Thanks, Papa Jo
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The relay for energizing the Main circulation pump would not appear to be on the ECC. Although, it could be one of the ones on the lower right inside the ECC cabinet. Based on what it is doing and where it gets its control it would seem like it should be very near the Webasto. The control for this relay are wires H9 and H34, both of which are directly connected to Pins 1 and 2 of the Webasto control unit. The high current side of the relay feeds the Main pump through wire H14 and it gets its voltage from wire #403 that likely comes from the ECC.
You have my contact information if you'd like some help.
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Hi Gil,
Hope all is well...Newbie question...you above statement, does that apply to my 2001 Liberty H345...I have the 4 OTR units (controls) 1 above driver, 2 in galley panel and 1 in bedroom) and wabasto...also there is a heater in the bath area baseboard and in the lower storage area (compartment that water pump and hot water tank live) I am guessing the operations would be similar???
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Doug, I don't recall if your coach will have a Furnace selection on the some or all of your AC thermostats. If not, it should have 2, maybe 3, old school thermostats dedicated to Webasto. If the AC thermostats control the Webasto heat, there should also be a switch elsewhere to allow the Webasto to run.
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Gil, you are correct...2 separate thermostats for Webasto...newbie question...do I need to run the AC thermostats when the Webasto is turned on...just not sure how the 2 systems work together??? thanks
Doug B
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Doug,
I had an 01 Liberty and if you have the 2 heat thermostats working the only reason to have the SMX controls running would be for your cruiseair heat pumps. It’s been almost 5 years, but I think I got it right.
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Doug,
With 2 different thermostats, there should not be any ties between the Webasto and air conditioners.