Alaska via the trans Canada

(Don't blame me, you asked for it):

America’s Last (Bus) Frontier: Time to Cross the Border, Eh?

Up until now, our trip had been restricted to the US. So, it was with a renewed sense of adventure, if not bus phobia, that we crossed the border at Lynden/Aldergrove (exit 256A off of I-5 N, to Hwy 539). To get there, make sure you stay on 539, and it’s about 15 minutes to the border (don’t turn off to Lynden). We had heard that this crossing or the Sumas/Abbotsford one had much shorter wait times than the ones closer to Vancouver, and indeed, we only had a few minutes wait at about 2 in the afternoon. (We had gotten our usual early start of noon from Bellevue, WA). Before you leave your RV Park for the trek into Canada, be sure to check out http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/border. There, you’ll get up to the minute wait times (including a traffic cam – how cool is that?) which may help you decide on when/where to cross. Whichever border you chose, do NOT get into the truck lane. That is ONLY for commercial vehicles and if you do, they will make you back up (there’s no place to turn around) and unhook your tow vehicle. Cats and dogs need current rabies certificates and they will question you about how much booze you have and if you have a gun. In our case, they didn’t even ask about the pets, trusted our word on the booze (silly them – although we have heard that for people living in their motorhomes, the Mounties understand that alcohol restrictions are a bit extreme and will let you get by with pretty much anything) and we were not boarded -- this time. (We had read that if you have children with you, you’re more likely to be closely questioned, due to kidnapping concerns.)

All in all, it took us just over 8 hours to reach our first stop, Lac la Hache, where we stayed in the Big Country (formerly KOA Lac la Hache) RV Park. It was quite pretty, with a heated pool and sauna, about 3 miles south of town on Hwy 97 (250-396-4181). Pull-through, full hook-up, spacious, treed sites for about $22/night. Be sure to get in by 11 pm, because that’s when the gate closes. It gets 4 out of 5 painted nails. The drive up was terribly scenic after we left Canada’s I-1 for Hwy 1, until about Cache Creek – from majestic mountains shrouded in mist to vistas reminiscent of the Old West (no wonder Hollywood often films up here). What we noticed right away about Canada was that the roads were largely in excellent shape, wide and had many more rest stops and spacious pull-out areas than we were used to in the States. Dump stations and water spouts were also plentiful. From Lac le Hache, we drove 7 hours to Smithers, where we spent the night at Riverside Golf and RV Park, 1 mile east of town on Hwy 16 (250-847-3229). Lovely setting, and if you aren’t in a rush, play some golf along the river, or try the driving range with the stunning snow capped mountains in the background. Also 4 painted nails (it lost a hangnail due to no pool or Jacuzzi). I didn’t even realize it was on the river, despite its name, as over the year I had gotten so used to the false advertising inherent in so many parks’ monikers. You know what I mean, places like Whispering Pines RV Park – right next to the rail yard. Or Vista View RV Resort – the view is of the town dump and as for the resort part, let’s just say the amenities include a mossy swimming hole and a tuff shed with an air hockey table .

In Prince Rupert, we stayed at the Park Ave RV Park overnight to catch the ferry to Ketchikan at the terminal aboot a half-mile from the park. They do not allow overnight parking at the terminal, and Park Ave had plenty of availability with 30 amp full hook-ups for $21/night. They also have dry docking, if they’re full. July and August are the busiest for the ferries, but even so, when we sailed on June 11th, ours was teeming with vehicles (they had a wait list). There’s not much else reason to stay in Prince Rupert and the park gets 3 painted nails, as it’s not particularly scenic and has no amenities save the laundry room. The drive from Smithers to Prince Rupert took 4 hours and the scenery on Hwy 16 was stunning with titanic peaks, churning rivers and waterfalls twisting down the mountains like the woven tassels on my white summer loafers. (Do waterfalls ever feel unfashionable after Labor Day?)

It may seem like a lot to drive three days to catch the ferry in Canada, when we could just have gotten on in Bellingham, WA. But, as I mentioned in my last column, this shaved off nearly half the cost of the entire trip of the ferry system, and was a very pleasant drive to boot (Sorry, I was due for another boot aboot now).

Next month, our first stop on the Alaska Marine Highway – Ketchikan.

Hi there,

Sorry this took me awhile. I had eye surgery (vision, not wrinkles - but give me a few years) and can only recently stand the light from the computer! (No sympathy being requested here. Tim's already set me straight on that: "You don't get sympathy for ELECTIVE surgery." I guess he gave at the office.

I hope you enjoy...

America’s Last (Bus) Frontier: It’s Rainin’ Buses

Ketchikan (population 10,000), our first stop on the Alaska Marine Highway was one of Tim’s favorites. With average annual rainfall of 152 inches, it is one of the wettest spots on Earth. It’s also the town with the heaviest annual rainfall in North America, so bring an umbrella.

As we arrived at port, we scanned the Tongass Narrows for a glimpse of our first Alaskan town. Finally, we found it; a dot sandwiched between hills thick with spruce and sea teeming with all manner of marine craft, from small fishing vessels cutting quick, determined paths across the water, to humongous cruise ships lumbering to and from port, to seaplanes flitting about to avoid everyone else.

We stayed at Clover Pass RV Resort, (907-247-2234) about 14 miles from town off of North Tongass Hwy (take a left at the ferry and keep going until you see their large, white sign on the left). Request a site on the water. Although there are first come, first served RV sites in two other parks, Clover Pass is the only place with hook-ups, so it's a good idea to reserve in advance. They also provide a computer for guests to get online for free, as well as a free local phone. I certainly took advantage of both, as our cell phone didn’t work and the WiFi fee was the steepest I’ve ever seen ($12.99/day). You’ll see plenty of eagles in the camp (and all over town) and the resort can set you up with fishing trips.

In Ketchikan, we took our first hike in Alaska. Yes, I said “first.” I figured since we were coming all the way up there I might as well. The added advantage was imagining this would fulfill my quota for the coming decade. But it was really Tim who made the mistake of encouraging me to go, only worsening his faux pas by picking the Perseverance Lake Trail. He loved it, of course (being easy to please has its advantages), but I found the endless steps of a boardwalk leading to an averagely scenic lake endlessly tedious, although the rainforest we passed through was lovely. But really. For mile after interminable mile – all three of them – it was all pretty much the same. Even having camera in hand couldn’t redeem the trek. Enough was enough.

Adding insult to injury, the entire time on the trail, I was afraid we’d encounter a bear. Tim tried to calm me, saying he didn’t think bear like such dense undergrowth.

“Oh, great. They’ll all be waiting for us at the lake. A regular bear convention.” I observed.

“Yup,” Tim agreed. “And they’ve been promised a JAP as the keynote squeaker.” We let the only other person on the trail, a young man, pass us. Beneficent me whispered to Tim, “Good. Now he can startle the bear!”

The next day, Tim did the five-mile, nearly vertical Deer Mountain Trail with the poodle – not that they didn’t invite me. In spite of the spectacular views of the town and harbor he reported on his return, as well as the wide grins on both their faces, judging by their mud-crusted, exhausted state, I was glad I had stayed in the campground, reading out on the dock.

I much preferred strolling through Creek Street on the historic downtown's walking tour. In 1903, Ketchikan’s city council decided to root out the “bawdy houses” from “Uncle Sam’s Wickedest City,” ordering them all moved to Creek Street. Since more than two “female borders” constituted a house of prostitution under the Territory of Alaska law, most of the women chose to live alone or in pairs. Thus, sailors of the North Pacific halibut and salmon fleets found their favorites by the glow of porch light globes, inscribed with such names as: Frenchie, Prairie Chicken, Deep Water Mary, and Dirty Neck Maxine. More discreet customers would slink to their rendezvous under cover of hillside brush by way of the “Married Men’s Trail.” During Prohibition, booze was snuck into the establishments via trap doors over the creek which the Creek Street houses were conveniently located on. Thus, prostitution in Ketchikan flourished until 1954, when it was permanently banished. Some old-timers still grumble about honest women put out of business.

We also visited the totem park at Saxman Village. When emancipation came after the territory was purchased from Russia, the indiginous people in this area, the Tlingit, lost an important part of their economy (slaves taken from other indiginous people) and expected their new U.S. government to compensate them. The compensation never came. To shame those with unpaid debts, the Tlingit traditionally erected a totem pole with the welcher’s likeness and this time was no exception. In Ketchikan, at Saxman Totem Park, we saw the one with an unmistakable Abraham Lincoln perched on top.

I know you didn’t come all the way to Alaska for Mexican food, but you must run (as if a Grisly were chasing you and you didn’t know that you’re supposed to play dead), to Ocean View Restaurant, (1831 Tongass Ave; 907-225-7566) the hands down food find of Ketchikan. The food is eclectic, with Mexican, Italian and Greek choices but it’s all fabulous fare with entrees running around $14. Don’t pass up the Sangria, a blend of Chardonnay and Cabernet, soaked in fruit for 3 days. I had the halibut Olympia, a tender, tasty fish in a wine and onion sauce (if anyone has a recipe, I’d be obliged). Tim had a special of steak chunks in a sort of cactus stew.

Also excellent were Bar Harbor Restaurant (2813 Tongass Ave; 907-225-2813), serving seafood, steaks, pot roast and meatloaf, with a view from its tiny space (weather permitting, you can eat outside, overlooking the harbor). And, locals flock to Diaz Café (335 Steadman Street; 907-225-2257) for Filipino food. We’d never tried this before, but the Chicken Adobe made us vow to find some back home. You don’t go to this place for atmosphere (frankly, it looks like a dive), they don’t take credit cards and they’re closed on Mondays.

If you’re in town and want a quick, cheap bite, try the most picturesque Safeway you’ll ever see. It’s right on the water and its salad/sandwich/Chinese food bar has seating with a view. You can also buy fresh local fish there. We got AK King Salmon for $12.99/lb, then in town, at a fish monger, we paid $7.99/lb. Both were fresh and probably the best salmon we’d ever had – up to that point.

We splurged on a seaplane trip to Misty Fjords National Monument, as that or a boat is the only way to get there (and we figured we’d be sick of boats, soon). There are several outfits that can get you there either way, or if you're very hardy and experienced (or in my opinion, foolhardy and idiotic) opt for a several day guided kayak paddle. We went with Island Wings Air Service (888-854-2444;www.islandwings.com) on pilot Michelle Madsen’s six-passenger DeHavilland Beaver for a two hour flight that included 45 minutes on the ground on the shore of one of the fjord lakes (cost $199/person). There was no one else around, but there had been earlier, as we saw bear prints in the sand. In addition to the majestic scenery, we saw mountain goats on a ridge (Michelle strafed them for us). If you getting tired of living in luxury on your bus, you can also hire a plane to take you to a US Forestry Service cabin and pick you up days later. My offer to all readers of this magazine: a free psychotherapy session before you go, to try to talk you out of it.

Thanks Dorreen, we really appreciate reading your articles/posts. I hope the surgery went well. I assume that you had lasik, or something similar.

Best of luck during the recovery!

Ray

Thanks, Ray! (Aw, gee. I said no sympathy requested. Was I that obvious? :)

It was a touch up of PRK I'd originally had years ago, so I was stuck doing PRK again, rather than Lasik, hence the worse/prolonged recovery. (Ooops! There I go, again!)

Seriously, thank you!

Interesting. I had RK many, many years ago as well. But, I was told by an eye surgeon that lasik is usable now to retreat? I haven't done it, but had considered it.

I think I'll sue.

America’s Last (Bus) Frontier: Wrangell Me a Bus

With a population of around 2000, you won’t be going to Wrangell for the amenities. I’m not even talking about the fact that there are only a couple of restaurants and bars. Oh, no. In Wrangell, the grocery store closes at 6 pm and aren’t even open on Sundays. You go to Wrangell, then, because it’s peaceful and gorgeous. It was one of my favorite Alaskan towns.

We stayed at the Alaska Waters RV Park (www.alaskawaters.com), about a mile from the ferry terminal. The setting is unspectacular, but quiet and it’s the only place with full hook ups on the island. The cost was $30/night. Book in advance, as there are only a handful of spaces. The owner, Jim, is a wonderful resource for all things Alaska and is a sort of Candide of the North. (Get him to tell you his harrowing tales of nearly being killed by calving glaciers and enormous, angry mammals, not to mention once running a logging camp where he employed three of the FBI’s ten most wanted.) There is free WiFi in the park. Staying there also gets you a 15% discount if you book any tours with Jim, and we would highly recommend his 6 hour jet boat trip down Skitkene River. You get to tour the river with a small group and will see glaciers, icebergs and animals. Jim captained our boat and we enjoyed his commentary as much as the sights themselves. If you can’t get into the Alaska Waters Park, a couple miles further down the road, Shoemaker Park has electric hook ups and a dump station for $25/night, is on the water, but takes no reservations.

You may also want to go to the Anan Bear and Wildlife Observatory. People we spoke to who had done it (we were too early in the season) said it was a highlight of their trip. They got to see many bears up close (15 feet), catching salmon in a stream. Locals told them not to worry – the bears are only interested in salmon, not humans, but always ended their assertion with, “no one’s been killed – yet.” It’s only been open a couple of years, so here’s my own assertion: that might change.

As for hiking, the most popular trail is Rainbow Falls. Be sure to go in late afternoon, as there are fewer cruse ship tourists. The trail is not for the couch potato inclined, as it has over 700 steps and is 0.7 mile each way. But, even lazy ‘ole me thought it was worth it. Then, the queens amongst you can set a spell as your driver takes you in the Royal Toad past where Zmovia ends, to some spectacular overlooks, such as Three Sisters and Anita Bay.

Also head to Chief Shakes Island in the middle of Wrangell Harbor, to see the Tribal House which is on the National Register of Historic Places. Admission is $3 and includes an explanation of Petroglyphs. For the vigorous amongst you, bike along a 6 mile trail that never leaves the water and starts at Shoemaker Park.

As far as eats go, stock up your fridge before you get on the ferry. But, if you must eat out, The Marina Bar next to Shakes Island is reported to have excellent pizza. Zak’s on Front Street is the best restaurant in town, but a bit pricey at up to $25 an entry in a rather shabby setting. If you want to cook your own fresh fish, you’re out of luck unless you catch it and fillet it yourself (obviously not something this Queen of the Long Narrow Isle was wont to do) although you could try going down to the dock and buying some from a local. As we were leaving, someone mentioned there was a fishmonger across from the Marina Bar, so you could try that, as well. There is no fishmonger in town.

Next month, Alaska’s “Little Norway,” Petersburg.

(Gosh, I can't believe it's taken me this long to post more of these. It's been crazy - and believe me, I know crazy!)

Petersburg is only three hours by ferry from our last stop, Wrangell. To get there, you pass through the narrow Wrangell Straights. If there's not too much rain, head out on deck to see the ferry boat’s wake wash up on the nearby shore.

Since cruise ships are too humongous to get to Petersburg, this town of only 3000, has a more natural, less spoiled feel. 1000 people sure seems to make a difference, as it also seems a bit more civilized, if that’s your thing. You can get fresh fish from several mongers downtown.

Tim loved the steep, 4 mile Raven Trail and judging by the pictures he took (surely we know each other well enough by know for you to realize there was no way I was going), there were spectacular views of the town and sound.

Much more my speed was taking the Jeep on the Three Lakes Loop Road. Definitely take the short detour to the view of the LeConte Glacier, where, on a clear day, you can easily make out icebergs. During low tide (free tide books are available at the Visitor’s Center and Wells Fargo Bank in town) head to Blind River Rapids. When the salmon are “in” it’s wall to wall and you might also see bear fishing, although you'll certainly see eagles anytime.

If a minimum 6 hour boat trip to whale watch isn’t your thing (it wasn’t ours) locals tell us they often see the beasts off shore at Outlook Point in the evenings (there are even binoculars mounted on pedastals for public use). We didn’t see any, but did catch a lovely sunset and a few deer on the beach. Even though Petersburg is a bit more "upscale" than Wrangell, there still aren’t any great restaurants. Tim satisfied a burger craving at Northern Lights Restaurant on Sing Lee Alley. The view was lovely, but the food (burgers, fish and chips, etc) was just acceptable. Locals recommend Joan Mei Restaurant (across from the ferry) for Chinese and American food, although there was a “for sale” sign in the window at the time of our visit.

On the other hand, Petersburg is wired. Take your laptop downtown and hang out anywhere. I found free Wifi at the corner of Dolphin and Nordic and sat in the Jeep checking emails.

We stayed at Twin Creek RV Park which has full, (barely) 30 amps hookups for $20/night and is about 6 miles from the ferry terminal on Mitkoff Highway. It is not particularly picturesque, but for buses, there’s not that much to chose from, here. While we enjoyed our time in Petersburg, we both found it the least memorable town on the Alaska Marine Highway, so keep that in mind if you’re pressed for time.

Next time, Sitka - probably our favorite stop on the Marine Highway.

Tim and I agree that Sitka, on the west side of Baranof Island, is our favorite Alaskan city and not just on the Marine Highway. For a combination of beauty and things to do, we feel it just cannot be beat.

There are only two RV parks that can accommodate buses, both are private and both have 30 amp electric and water only. Don’t even think about trying the Parks Service campsites, as they are way too small for buses. Sitka Sportsman’s Association RV Park (907-747-3439) is a half mile from the ferry. While it sits on a beautiful bay, the view from the sites themselves is of storage buildings. Seven miles from the ferry, just past downtown and over Sitka bridge to Japlonski Island, take the first left and you’ll be in the parking lot that is Sealing Cove RV Park (907-747-3439; they don’t take reservations and have never been full). It is part of the harbor and although, yes, it is a parking lot, this asphalt jungle’s got some awesome views. There is a pay phone nearby but no other amenities. The only dump station on Sitka is a half mile away. The advantage of this park, other than the lovely view, is that you can just walk over the bridge to downtown, where there are several WiFi hotspots. My favorite free one was at the Sitka hotel, which was only 0.6 mile from the RV park. I enjoyed sitting in the bar, having a coke (really! After all, by then, I’d become quite proficient at making fruity martinis, myself) and checking my email while Tim was out on a hike.

Speaking of death marches, even I enjoyed the Harbor Mountain Trail. Well, OK. Maybe “enjoyed” is too strong a word, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen more beautiful vistas in my life. Look for the turn off at the north end of Halibut Point Road. Take your tow vehicle (hopefully, it’s four wheel drive) up the mountain about 5 miles. There, you can stop and take a short stroll on a boardwalk, to one of the loveliest picnic spots you’ll ever see. Thus fortified (and believe me, you’ll need it) you can drive another ½ mile to the trailhead and do the 2 mile each way, moderate hike, with constant stunning views. Frankly, if I’m going to be forced to exert myself, I better get this kind of scenery.

You don’t even have to go all the way up to the peak, which I didn’t, after putting Tim through the Five Stages of Getting Grief from Hiking with Doreen: Denial (“There’s no way in hell I’m going all the way up there!”), Anger (“I can’t believe I let you drag me on this f-ing hike!”), Bargaining (“If we stop now, I’ll have the energy to do another hike tomorrow. Really! I promise.”) Despair (“Oh, why did I let you talk me into anything over two miles?”), Acceptance (“Fine, but this is absolutely the last hike I will ever go on for the rest of my life.”) I would add another stage, achieved on Ketchikan, which only occurs in extreme circumstances, at a perfect storm of elevation gain, total distance, mud and bugs: Confabulation (“Look at the dog! You’re killing him!”). If you’re going to do one hike in your lifetime (I wish) the Harbor Mountain Trail should be it.

Another (less, but still) gorgeous and much more reasonable trek is the 1 ¼ mile loop Mosquito Cove Trail which starts at Starrigavan Recreation Area (all the way north on Halibut Point Road). It meanders through old-growth forest along the shore. We also did the Estuary Life and Forest Muskeg Trails (about an easy mile each) just across the street, but unless you’re really into birds and fauna, the scenery, at least to me, was not particularly interesting.

Definitely head to the Alaska Raptor Center (www. alaskaraptor.org; just off Sawmill Creek Blvd, not far from town; 800-643-9425) where you can not only learn how eagles are rescued, but have a chance to see several up close.

As for downtown attractions, we took a peek into the Russian Orthodox St. Michael’s Cathedral and Castle Hill. Stay for the explanation of how the Russians first settled here. We also went to see the Sitka Tribe Dance Performance (call for times, as they depend on when the cruise ships are in, 888-270-8687; sitkatribe.org) but, unfortunately, it reminded me of one of the reasons I never wanted kids: the idea of sitting through a junior high production. At least it was only 30 minutes.

Fresh seafood can be purchased at 475 Katlian St downtown, at Absolute Fresh Seafoods. The only fine dining establishment is Ludwig’s and although it looks like a hole in the wall, we were assured its Mediterranean cuisine was fabulous. At $25-30 an entrée (or tapas at the bar for $15) without any kind of view, we chose not to see for ourselves. Instead, we headed for the Channel Club (2906 Halibut Point Rd; 907-747-9916) where local fisherman congregate for steak (only sirloin or ribeye), seafood and the all-you-can-eat salad bar. Call ahead if you want a table by the window with a lovely view of the bay. (Be warned: Smoking is allowed in the restaurant – hey, this is America’s Last Frontier, after all.) The steaks were good, but not great. If it’s Chinese food you’re hankering for, eat in with a lovely harbor view or take out at Twin Dragon (201 Katlian St; 907-747-5711). While the service was a bit, well, awful (they seemed to be overwhelmed by the number of diners on that particular night and may have had some new staff), the food was excellent, except for my vegetable soup (judging by its taste, the cook must have one bad case of hypertension, as it was waaaaay salty).

Next month, we head from the former Alaskan capital, Sitka, to the current capital, Juneau. (Maybe I’ll think of a better title for that article. Suggestions appreciated. I’m begging, people.)

To: POG Forum - I would LOVE to post some pictures with these articles, especially of Sitka, so you can see some of the stunning vistas I'm talking about, but I don't see any way to. If there is, please let me know. If there's not, I do have a lot of pictures on my website (especially for Alaska, see the gallery section).