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The Cruise Air filter is accessible through a panel at the bottom of the pantry. The RO unit, when compared to the unit in our house will get virtually 10% of the use so if I access it once every five years to replace the elements I will be surprised.
To address Tom's warning, I cannot speak about other brands but we installed this refrigerator:
http://www.bosch-home.com/us/product...?source=browse
and it works on shore power or inverter. Our inverters are the original Heart Interface Freedom 25 inverters.
I can say this about the Bosch, and it was the deciding factor. We cannot hear it run. I'm not saying it is quiet, I am saying it is silent. It was pricey, but the only noise we will hear are ice cubes dropping into the bin. And I don't yet know what it's power consumption is compared to the Amana that was removed, but I suspect it will be considerably less, something that should give us a lot of time on batteries.
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Jon: We replaced a unit in our old coach and I know the fun part. Last week I had to repair a leaky freon charge valve and put on new caps. All went well using the Sears Refrigerator Repair man. I was dreading a full change out like you went through. Did you have to deal with paint to match and panels to match the old units appearance? Liberty painted our present unit to match it's surroundings and has matching door panels.
Good job Jon thanks for sharing.
Paul H: The repair on the way to OKC did not hold, A loose Shraeder valve and a hole in the cap allowed the leak. Thanks for your able help on the road. The wood platform did again come in handy.
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Harry,
We got a Stainless Steel (door) unit. My biggest fear that it would look out of place because the other one was painted and had vitricor panels appears unfounded.
First, our floor plan does not let us see the refrigerator head on from a distance so we only see the door edges for the most part. Then we realized after I took the protective plastic from the doors that the stainless picks up the color of the surrounding vitricor to the extent that the refrigerator does not appear mismatched.
I like the vitricor clad and painted refrigerator we took out better than the look of the replacement, but the new one looks OK. We will get used to it.
Your schrader should not leak and the cap should not be the seal. I hope the Sears repair guy did the right fix.
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1 Attachment(s)
Harry,
Our old fridge had the Laminate panels that matched the interior in our bus. I was able to find almost an identical Laminate and glued the panels to the new fridge. If you have to change it out in the future, let me know and I'll help you find a match to your interior. If Liberty painted it instead of using matching panels, you should be able to match the paint.
Finished product...
Attachment 5884
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Hi Jon. The two things I notice with my Reverse Osmosis and Ice Maker;
The water pump will run intermitantly to filter water thru the Membrane to the holding tank when the Ice Maker is running. Then, the ice maker fills with water. finally, the ice dropping into the holding tray. That's all I usually hear.
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This installation raises a number of considerations I have to look into.
At the low side of my pump pressure range my RO stops or slows considerably. I am going to see if I want to or need to bump that up so my range in the bus shifts from about 32 to 42 up to about 40 to 50. I don't see a downside, but I want to think more about it before I do anything. Anybody else contemplating an RO system also has to be thinking about this.
My original thinking which we may try for a while is to hook up to my house water supply and maintain a constant pressure for about 2 days prior to a trip and fill the ice tray and the RO unit. Then when connected in a campground go back on municipal water again. I'm leaning towards adjusting pump pressure but need to give it more thought.
We usually leave our pump on at all times and do not rely on campground pressure or volume. I am not sure I want to subconsciously want to hear ice cubes and pump cycling while I am sleeping.
I still do not know how we will store the bus between trips. We would only leave power to the inverters and the outlets in the bus. We would not be connected to water and the pump would be off. I haven't even given thought to whether we leave the refrigerator on, or off, if we keep the RO system and water system pressurized or if we drain the RO and turn off its supply. Obviously we will turn off the icemaker and dump the tray.
What does everyone do? Freezing or keeping the coach warm is not a concern, and since it is about 15 steps from the house I am able to monitor things daily if I desire. It is a rare day when I am not out in the garage either to get one of the cars out or just puttering around.
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Jon,
Take a look at this link.
http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/Pumps.htm
The section :
2. Boosting Pressure for Reverse Osmosis Systems
It might help you decide what to so about pressure.
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I cannot guess what others are doing but I am reasonably certain I am not alone in having my water pressure, as provided by municipal water, regulated to 40 to 42 pounds. Liberty has a regulator on the incoming supply line on the house side of it, not the tank fill side of the system. At that constant system pressure my RO system works fine. I am sure boosting the pressure will produce more water faster, but my issue is not with making RO water, but whether I want to rely on municipal or house water pressure, or if I want to increase my total bus system pressure so I can use the pump exclusively.
A 10 PSI bump up in pump pressure does the job. That eliminates reliance on external supplies. But then when I am living on my holding tank supply, such as on a cross country trip with overnight stops in rest areas I am wasting 5 gallons of my limited supply to produce 1 gallon of water. Right now I have more questions than answers. I guess I am going to have to try different things and see how we are most comfortable. We rarely dry camp, but we do on occasion drive for 3 days to get to a distant destination and rely 100% on our holding tank and pump.
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Jon,
If you manage to boost your pump pressure, then I assume all your issues with the RO will be solved. If not, why not just install a by-pass valve in your plumbing that would take the RO out of the loop while on pump water? I know you have 2 whole house filters and the fridge filter, so your tank water supply should have safe drinking water. When you get hooked up to city water, put the RO system back in the loop.
We have 1 house filter and the fridge filter and drink the water from the fridge both on city water and tank water. Carrying around cases of bottled water just doesn't seem to make much sense anymore. When I hook to city water, I always spray a 50/50 bleach and water mix on the faucet. I do drain the water tank at least once on each trip and add 1/4 of fresh for traveling.
When I get home, I make sure the pump is on and the system is pressurized and then turn off the pump. Periodically while not in use in the garage, I turn on the pump just to see if it cycles letting me know if there is leak in the system. Mine will set a month without any pressure loss.
The fridge, I never turn it off, but shut off the ice maker at the end of each trip and dump the ice.
Now, for the ice maker filling and cubes dropping keeping you awake, your over the top on that one.:rolleyes: Your A-1 status is on shaky ground after OKC and Kevin, but that one may just put you back on top!:D Good grief man, it's a Liberty, they don't make any noise!
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Jon,
As I mentioned earlier, why not dump your RO "sluff" back into your fresh water tank if you are concerned...it is cleaner than the muni water that is inside your tank and, after all, it has gone thru the filtering media and is just the water that runs around the membrane.
I have never had the problem of running out of RO water and mine dumps into the grey water tank as it is underneath the galley sink and hooked in above the trap.
