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Over a month from the time when my pit caved in, I now have the block layed, the rebar and wire in place, and the concrete scheduled for next Monday.
Jim C. should be happy, because I added rebar to every block. I knew if I didn't, and it ever caved in on me, Jim would say, "Poor ole Dale would still be alive if he had listened to me about that rebar."
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Looking mighty fine Dale.
You will not believe how easy life becomes when it is easy to access the bottom side of the bus.
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Yes
You did it right and you know it! :p
I LIKE IT* For what that's worth:D
It looks like you've done this kind of work before. Did you son help you or just give it his blessing?:D
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Jim, I haven't done it before, and don't necessarily want to do it again. I am sure my son blessed it since he didn't have to do any work on it. If it just won't rain now until I can get it poured/finished Monday!
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InN THAT CASE
Dale a few pointers then:
Be sure to have your tools ready when the concrete truck gets to the job.
You will need:
Oversize boots that pull over street shoes
Motor driven flexible shaft vibrator or (probe with a length of rebar)
Shovel
Rake
Some kind of hook to go around and pull up on the rebar to be sure it is not on the ground. (I see you have yours supported elevated, so just check here and there)
Pole float
Trowels and edge finishing tools
Sledge hammer
Hammer, spikes, saw, extra wood for form repair or changes, all just in case!!
Wheel barrow in case you can not get the truck everywhere you need it
If you have a good tool rental around you may be able to rent everything you need.
For any extra concrete have a place to dump or a small form for some odd job.
When finished with the pour, but when your still humping the driver will want to know where he can wash out the truck. :eek: Being in the country you may not care where this is done but be ready for the question, or tell him NO to wash it in the Barrel.
When the truck gets there, the driver will want to get going and get the job done, NO PUTSING AROUND!! He will expect you will know what to do and do it. He will add a little water for you (DON'T ADD TOO MUCH that weakens the cured strength) and drive to position and run the gate for you, but not much else. You must take charge and tell the driver what you want or he will ride over you if you get my drift! Usually a concrete finisher/installer will have several men on the job depending on the job size. To a bystander it seems as though there are too many hands, but for short periods of time they are needed. In the beginning and through the pour it is a flurry of activity (all elbows and A holes).
If you have anyone that can be there for you take advantage. We don't want to see pictures of ten piles of concrete that didn't get spread and finished.:eek:
Plan out in advance your sequence of pour and how you will get in and out of the pit and remove forms as the job progresses and on completion. Don't tape the forms of too soon, but don't leave them on too long either.
Dale if you know all this stuff it's for someone else then that doesn't. ;)
Best of luck :D, JIM
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Hi Dale. I can't tell by the picture, but I hope the blocs were grouted in place. You should go very slow when filling those blocks to prevent a blow-out. I would say you should pour the blocks first, and pour the cement pad another day. you should also have two parrallel rebars horizontally around the top edge on the top blocks.
I can't tell as well, but a 6 inch slab is recommended for a Prevost. Jim is right, you need 3-4 people to do this pour and finish.
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I have 2 or 3 friends from the church scheduled to help with the pour and finish. I plan to drag it down, float it and then brush it with a shop broom. It won't be perfect, but it should work.
It is going to be tricky, because there is no ledge along the side of the existing building to use to drag down the concrete. Much of it will have to be dragged toward the middle, so we are expecting some real challenges in getting an acceptable finish. I think I have all the tools lined up, but I know there will probably be some surprises regardless. I am expecting a long hard day. Thanks for everyone's advice.
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Dale, something that you could do that would make your job a little easier and without compromising the effectiveness of the project, fasten with tapcon fasteners, 2x4 treated ledger boards to the adjacent slab and leave them in place on completion. They would give a good reference to even out the slab with your drag. It could be a 1x4 or simply expansion joint material if all you wanted was a reference for the slab height!
JIM
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Jim, I thought about attaching 2x4s to the slab but decided to just use the existing expansion boards as a guide.
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Dale, your weather looks good with rain holding off until tues. and wed.. Hope all goes well. Be sure to have Paulette take pictures to post.
JIM