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Thanks for all the replies; it seems we have a consensus.
I have shock-treated the full tank with BioBore. I have used it with every fill on my Grand Banks boat... never a problem.
I will start on a couple-of-thousand-mile trip next week, and will monitor the filters and be prepared for a roadside change
Thanks everyone!!
My 2 cents worth, we had a problem not unlike this one and I elected to have the tank & system "cleaned'" Well, it seemed to work and then I got the idea to try a tank of BioFuel when visiting Ohio and within about 200 miles had trouble making a hill in W Virginia. Luckily next exit was a Flying J, and changed filters/topped off and went on. Another 300 miles and same thing, clogged filters, changed them again , racor lousy with stuff, anyway, went though about 4 changes of filters that trip and will never bother with Bio again, especially in my "Older" coach. Just thought I would add this.
I have a followup question on Racor filters. I always used 10 micron filters on the boat. My bus had 30 micron size installed, and I think that is the specification. The number given in the Prevost manual is a Prevost number that I cannot directly cross reference to a Racor part. Is 30-micron correct?
Yes, you will find it in here.
http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/docs/busfilters.pdf
JIM :)
Jim, I have seen that list also, but question if those numbers are for a S60 or like my 8V92T? I recognize some of the numbers
If you give me the fuel filter number you're using I will get the micron rating for that filter. NAPA has a master catalog with everything you could imagine about each filter.
Usually the mfg. will spec the micron "fuel pass" on primary and secondary filters.
NAPA and WIX are the same number, NAPA uses a 4 number system and Wix uses 5. Just drop the first number on Wix and you then have the NAPA number.
Wix does offer a value line but not available in truck and bus filters.
Not wanting to contribute too heavily to thread creep, but as long as we are talking filters, I would like to put a little different filter arrangement into my webasto. The current is original but it only has the one element. I thought about adding a double unit as in the original installation and arrange it so that it would be easier to service, the way is now, it took me over an hour to change just the one. A little different location inside of the cover could make it super easy as there is plenty of room.
Note to John....My opinion only. Knowing you have an issue with contamination, your primary concern should be to protect the engine. You do not want to risk getting crud of any type past the filters, so even though the Racor as set up in your coach is primary, I would use a 10 micron element and carry spares. This serves a couple of purposes. It offers additional protection immediately downstream from the source of contamination, and it is the easiest filter to service while on the road.
We experienced a fuel contamination problem and as soon as I realized the filter(s) were getting plugged I parked next to a fuel pump so I had fuel to refill the filters, and I changed filters right there. There is always a little indication the filters need changing so whenever I got that little shudder in the drivetrain I would hop off at the next truck stop and change them out.
Stick with the 10 micron. We regularly run the 10 micron filters in marine engines with far greater horsepower than the series 60. Your injectors will love you.
Just a quick update and potentially related question.
We left Knoxville Wednesday to begin a trip by visiting Prevost Nashville for a windshield replacement, water leak, and level 3 service. After the 200 miles to Nashville, the filter bowl was clean and the bus performed flawlessly.
All was dealt with by Prevost. I went ahead and had them change the primary and secondary fuel filters although they had only 200 miles on them.
No problems noted in route from Nashville to Memphis.
Leaving Memphis today I noticed some white smoke under acceleration. It reminded me of what I see sometimes with Webasto startup. I stopped a few miles down the road and did a engine room visual inspected, and checked all fluid levels AGAIN. All was well. I ran about 100 miles down I-55 and the smoke persisted. When idling at the campsite, I even noted some smoke on high idle. No DDEC codes generated, and the only performance symptom I noted was MAYBE a little roughness at low idle. Filter bowl still clean.
Could this be filters again? An injector? Something else?