Brian,
He says he is going to leave that blower fan in and put elec. on other side on thermosat. He also says he wants to replace that elec. pump, as it makes noise and he figures barrings are bad.
JB
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Brian,
He says he is going to leave that blower fan in and put elec. on other side on thermosat. He also says he wants to replace that elec. pump, as it makes noise and he figures barrings are bad.
JB
I think this applies to both the generator and engine coolant changes. At least it does for the ones I have worked on.
The key is to get the thermostats open.
I would run the engine and the webasto and get things up to temperature, including raising the thermostat settings in the house so the system was calling for heat which means water coolant circulation. It does a good job of burping. Doing that followed by a 15 mile drive with everything coming up to full operating temperature finishes the job.
When I change the generator coolant I bring it up to operating temperature also otherwise I am trying to get fresh coolant to seep past a closed thermostat and that is tough if not impossible.
Judi,
If the Liberty generator is runing hot, verify the radiator cooling fan is working. If it is, verify the separate coolant circulating pump is actually pumping coolant. The third thing on my list would be to look under the coach and verify the generator steel baffle has not been crushed and blocking air, or is missing. If the baffle is missing it is possible that hot radiator air is being pulled right back through the radiator, and when that happens the cooling fan shuts down due to the thermal switch. Generally the Liberty generator cooling systems are so efficient the reverse is a problem, They have a hard time coming up to temperature which is not good for the engine.