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They make thermostats that fail in the open rather than the closed position. Take the thermostat to a good parts house or garage and discuss this concept with them. This change is probably saving a lot of engines today.
Look hard for a booster pump, that seems like a long run thru a hose with the standard engine water pump to overcome. Keep at it, don't loose that engine.
Check all the hoses, when they get soft the tend to suck shut.
What manufacturer is the Generator? Check the Book ,if you have one, and buy a new thermostat. Replace it and eliminate that as the problem first. Then if you still have problems, the distance beween the radiator and the engine would be the 2nd issue to examine.
I agree with Gary. Change the thermostat. Don't even check the old one they don't last long anyway. Get a fresh start with new. To remove the old is the bigger part of the job. Do not put back old inexpensive perishable parts.
Check out the whole system even when the problem turns out to be the thermostat.
:D JIM
Wil Rogrs said: I never met a man I did't like. ;)
Somebody else said: I never had a thermostat that didn't fail.:eek:
New thermostat in aqnd no change.
Kim sloan
I would call customer support , Your convertor or Generator maker. Also, check to see if you have any other Valves, sensors, backflows in the piping system from the radiator to the Generator.Quote:
Originally Posted by nrhareiner
Kim, on a diesel pickup I had a few years back, I had a similar prob. What it finally turned out to be, was some little piece of plastic in the thermostat housing broke loose and became lodged in the hose out of sight, blocking the flow volume.Quote:
Originally Posted by nrhareiner
You can check for this by feeling the hose with your hand for temp. differentials, or with your infrared thermometer.
Kim,
Your problem is frustrating me. I hope you can solve it and let us know what is going on.
Using your data about in-out temperatures I find myself with no clear direction regarding where to look.
If the problem is a blockage (you ruled out the thermostat) it would act as you described. But if the radiator and fan and pump are not doing their job the results could be the same. To rule them out I think you should see if you have another bus owner near you that is willing to start and load up his generator. Take the same measurements and see if the drop in temperature is about the same. If it is that may rule out the radiator or fan.
When it is working properly, the coolant leaving the generator will likely never exceed 200. But for that to happen the coolant returning to the generator needs to be well below that point. I strongly suspect that the generator coolant pump is not the issue because while poor flow can cause the coolant to remain in the generator longer, absorbing more heat, I am presuming that reduced flow rate will also allow the coolant to lose a substantial amount of that heat before it returns from the radiator.
By that long around about thinking process it brings me back to the radiator / fan area. Is it possible the fan has problems or that the hot discharge air is returning to the radiator preventing proper cooling? This is where measuring another bus radiator set up may provide some clues.
BTW, I am leaving in a little for a couple of days of flight and sim training otherwise I would attempt to get that data from my coach for you. Sorry.
Good evenining,
With alot of looking I found a bleed valve in the line. The valve is around two feet from the radiator at the front of the bus. After bleeding air (and there was definitely a pocket) the temp is down and has stayed down. For how long who knows. The valve was not visible until starting tracing water line.
Kim Sloan
02 Vantare XLII S2
06 dodge
That's great Kim. Another mystery solved.
THAT'S GREAT KIM!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nrhareiner
Makes me think that once a person gets his-her bus sorted and figured out it takes a lot of fortitude and guts to get another and start over.