Who or what is IBP?
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Who or what is IBP?
This is pretty close to heaven for bus owners.
http://www.1800intlbus.com/
That will answer your previous question, Joe
Creeper Crawling: For those of you that actually do want to join Jon in servicing your own bus.
Obtain three railroad ties or similar large timbers 6.5 x 9.5". In the center of two of them mark and saw across the short side at 62 degrees. Cut the third one 90 deg. across the middle. You now have four tapered pcs. and two straight pcs. Place two of the tapered pcs. in front of the the rear tires of your bus. Put the additional two strt. pcs in front of those blocks. Pull the coach forward up on to the tapered blocks and stop. Place the remainig tapered pcs. in front of the front tires. Pull the bus forward up on to the front blocks. The rears should be forward onto the strt. blocks now.Chock the tires front and rear. Put (heavy)jack stands or blocks under the bus support points per "Prevost body supportpoints.doc by
Jon Wehrenberg " Follow Jons step by step instructions to lube and other maintenence or repairs.
You now have enough room under the bus to creeper around and do maintenence. It would be better to have the pit as Jon has, but you can get it done this way.
Please don't let Lew see this, it's far too complicated for him to decifer. Besides he'll get his big tummy dirty scooting around under the bus.
I have actually had three different situations relative to accessing the underside of the bus.
The first few years I had no pit and no ramps. I raised the bus to its maximum height, put blocks under it to protect me against an air bag failure and once I slid in a creeper into the area between wheels I could sit up and do whatever I needed to do. There is nothing on our buses that I am aware of that will need maintenance outside the area between the wheels so I was able to do all my work without a pit.
The next level of access was when I had a depression put into the barn floor between the wheels. it went from under the front bumper all the way to the rear. It was about 8" deep and I could scoot on a creeper from front to rear. Again, if I raised the bus it made access even easier. It was less of a job moving around with the bus a little higher than if I was at floor level. Harry's ramps would accomplish the same as having an 8" depression.
When we built here in Knoxville and had the pit installed as part of the plans that has made all the difference in the world. Walking and standing under the bus cuts the time for a full lube and service to about half the time. It not only provides better access, but when you start getting into repairs you can't compare the amound of leverage you can put on a wrench while standing on your feet compared to sitting on your butt or kneeling.
But before anybody thinks they absolutely need a pit, I did all of the following without one: lube, fluid changes, filter changes, replaced air hoses, brake chambers, leveling valves, and air bags.
Gee Wizz, I was happy in the gravel across from my house until I read that reply:rolleyes: Relentless, keep us posted on that bushing replacement. Let us know the what you have learned when you are done. I will do the same! As soon as we get ours back from A/C repair I wanna do it.
I was a plastic owner, It does not compare!! I just purchased a new exhaust pipe extention that matches the one I just replaced on the port side, I as I have said in the past I own repair shops and one of them has a very under used pipe bender, I am going to bring the Webasto and generator over to the starboard side I will take some pictures when I get done, If you feel like doing so I would like to see your approach, so please send your photos!
Relentless:
As per Jon's suggestion - a couple of phots of my Webasto and Gen Exhaust out the drivers side:I had to be extremely careful not to expose to much bling:
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...l/CIMG0774.jpg
http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...l/CIMG0775.jpg
Sweet job!, I like the oval pipes, my coach is in Orlando getting a new paint job and a electric awning, I can't wait to get it back and finish it up! I have owned it since July and it has been under refirb. ever since. I think I will look at putting the heater pipes out on the left side like you have done, it will save a lot of work as opposed to taking it out the right rear. Thank you for the time and the pictures!
relentless, I have heard from vehichle systems in CO. that wabasto exaust can only be so long but don't remember the specs. Seems for exaust pressure reasons? maybe check just in case your moving it will cause problems.
Put the 10 suspension arm bushings in the 5 arms for the steer axle this evening. Started about 6 and finished up about midnight. There are 2 nut sizes 1 7/8in. and 15/16.
You can put a socket on the 1inch gun for taking off the tires and remove the 4 lower of the big nuts with that. I did pull both tires. A large 1 7/8 combination wrench gets the rest.
Took off one at a time, everything remained lined up perfect for reinstallation. Cut out the old ones out with a stanley knife, pushed the new ones in by hand with a little WD40.
Some were wore around the coller, some were starting to break down up inside, some were in beautiful condition. I think these are not the originals that I removed.
When reinstalling do not run the nuts with the lock rings all the way up with an impact, finish tightening them up with a wrench. There are some roll pins to line up and you can spin the lock with an impact if you are not real careful.
The mounting bracket that I removed from the front of the R-lower arm was broken allowing that to make noises sometimes. When I removed the nut the stud came with it. Not good. Once I took the arm down I could see where it was moving. At reassembly the stud wouldnt tighten correctly, too sloppy. I was actually happy to discover this because this is for sure the noise we have been hearing from time to time. Ill order new stuff tomorrow and that will be a quicke to swap out.
With the suspension all the way up in the front I blocked the frame and put the suspension switch back to normal allowing the frame to settle down on the blocks. That along with the tires off gave me plenty of room to work.
This is a job I know alot of you out there are capable of doing. If you have the tools at home to remove your tires you can do this job.
I was quoted up to 2 hrs. per arm by 5 arms by $75 per hr. That for us would have been a waste of money.
Only skinned 1 knuckle and feel pretty good now but I think Im gonna be a little stiff in the morning.