Jello, hahahaha!
That was my exact thought. Nice job.
Now it's back to work getting ready for Mom's Day.
mm
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Jello, hahahaha!
That was my exact thought. Nice job.
Now it's back to work getting ready for Mom's Day.
mm
Looks like somebodys fabbin up some custom exhaust tips.
Thats nice, one of a kind.
How far will you have to go to get that chromed?
Good shot Joe, I have stainless steel tips that are going on soon. I will post before and after shots in a few days.
What did you make that collecter out of? A piece of 4 inch with a 45 bend in it, off the shelf from someware?
I know how hard it is getting to get things, big things, chromed anymore. Even around the big city. And it takes forever. Stainless tips solve that.
So now you have the new LED tail lights, custom exhaust tips, and, what other unique customs are you planning to remove from the choices of others? How about a couple of bullet spots/w stainless visors for either side of the windshields, down low!
Make 2. I'll pay you;)
You can send it with the 10 door cylinders your sending me:eek:
Our gen compartment door is lined with a sheet of lead.
How far out of Chicago are you, 600?
Looks like a muffler to collect engine and generator and webasto exhaust.
If it is, make sure of the venturii effect to prevent engine exhaust backflow into the generator or Webasto.
Relative to 8V92 manifolds....Dale has found one of the waek parts of that engine. I suspect he saw evidence of the blown gasket on his turbo boost gauge. That is usually the first clue unless the sooting occurs in a visible location. Also, it is not uncommon to crack those cast iron manifolds so in addition to monitoring the gaskets keep an eye on the manifiold itself.
For those intending to do what Dale has done, be aware of one thing not mentioned by Dale....it is very rare to pull a manifold without loosening and removing some of the studs. When the studs are loosened or removed you lose engine coolant. It is not a big deal as long as you have the pan under where you are working or you have drained the coolant. Having a manifold stud insertion tool is handy to have for replacing the studs.
Jon, thats a good thought. When you loosen the manifold bolts (5) you can lift the manifold straight up and remove it. Then I tightened the ones (2) that I could see were going to turn out. Then once the stud was tight enough the tap would start to move and then I just reversed them and removed them. You do not want to remove any of the studs unless you drain the block of anti-freeze.
When replacing the manifold you want to make sure that the manifold is just touching the stops and not resting on them or else you can tighten them and not have the manifold flat against the head. Torque to #65.
I did notice the temps were different from each side.
I thought the stud intallation tool was two nuts jammed together?
That works, but I saw a tool Snap On had and it was as slick as can be. Since the studs are sealing against coolant leakage this is an area I would want the tightness of the studs to be correct.