The bus is in a heated hangar for all winter 5 months fully plug.
Do we have to start the engin some times
a week, a month, and for how long???Attachment 9092
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The bus is in a heated hangar for all winter 5 months fully plug.
Do we have to start the engin some times
a week, a month, and for how long???Attachment 9092
Great looking coach!
Frequent startups are the best thing you can do for your coach. Remember on a coach, the air system is critical to so many functions. Although running the engine and engaging the transmission into gear ( drive and reverse) is benificial, your air system will be best served by doing this at least once per month for 3 or 4 cycles of your air driver pop off.
I would concur with AmeriStar that it is best to start and run the coach to temperature / pressure at lease bi-monthly. And as he points out cycle the transmission, with park brake set, drive to reverse a few times to run the oil through the gallery. there is a Prevost installed electric block heater, basically an oven type electric coil, submerged in the oil pan and plugged into a GFCI outlet at the passenger side vertical pillar as you look at the engine. This may or may not be worth using prior to start up since the shop is heated, but in Quebec it's good to know it's there!
AmeriStar is right that the larger issue is the Prevost air system, which should be exercised regularly. There is (should be) a Schrader valve (automotive tire type) at the drivers lower compartment (by wind shield washer reservoir) and the opposite corner passenger rear above the chassis batteries. This is to plug in shop air with an every day spring clip tire chuck and inflate the coach without running the engine.
However, I would still run the engine and using the leveling system inflate / deflate all 3 positions a few times to cycle the valves and engine driven air compressor until the unloader "spits." Then return the leveling system to "drive" until the coach settles back to ride height.
That said, the best option overall would be to get in and drive to sunny Oregon where the fishing is excellent and the women are cautiously optimistic.
Great looking coach and shop!
Personally (and w/o statistical data for support), I agree with all said EXCEPT I would not run the engine. Cold startups (even in a htd hanger) aren't that good for an engine and tend to dilute engine oil unless the oil is brought to full temperature for a period of time. It takes a long time to bring 10 gallons of engine oil to temp at idle speeds.
Additionally, preferably before storage while the engine is running to distribute fuel throughout, I would add some sort of fuel treatment to prevent algae.
The air systems can be exercised with external air or onboard aux compressor. I'd take my chances on the transmission.
When running the engine to temp., monthly additionally cycle the OTR to keep the compressor seal lubed and supple to keep it's "seal".
Run your Webasto for some period to exercise it and to help bring the engine to temp. sooner.
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Curiously my block heater is not in the oil pan, it is in the side of the block in the coolant system.
JIM :)
Previous posts regarding this subject: run engine and bring up to temp once a month or so. Run everything, a/c's , otr, transmission, air level system, fans, water system, generator under 50% or more load.
All this takes is about one hour to do.
Remember, the more you use your bus , the better condition it will be in.
you are right and thank you. series 60 has the element in the block coolant jacket, passenger side. Most convertors pick up the Prevost outlet and wire to a non-inverter circuit in the AC breaker box, or add a dash switch to a remote breaker in that box.
I think you're right Joel. Engines like load. Simply idling, even with the transmission in gear and brakes applied, typically won't create enough load. Diesel combustion at idle doesn't generate sufficient heat. Pistons, rings, and liners won't expand to normal operating clearances and tolerances. Combustion byproducts will blow past the rings and land in the oil raising the acidity of the oil. Moisture produced by the exhaust will collect in the exhaust system creating rust. Cylinder liners will glaze due to insufficient combustion pressures. Engines love to be under load and dislike idling and freewheeling. When my coach is stored, I get in it every 3 weeks and drive it for 50 to 60 miles. This is the only way to hit 30 psi of turbo boost on my DDEC IV 12.7L Series-60. If you want to store it for prolonged periods without driving it, then check out the DD S60 manual. In the manual, DD has outlined steps to take to prepare an engine for prolonged periods of non-operation.