Seals, drive axle

I am noticed a leak on my driver side duals. I am taking it to a local International Truck center to have the seal replaced. The Prevost parts book only list the Prevost number,but is does reference Stemco. If I can get the part number prior to the service work it may save some down time. Does anyone have the Stemco part # ? WE have a 1991 Liberty.
My thanks to Lew....because of his misfortune I alway check for that leak before each trip. We are headed out next week for two weeks on the road in Fla and had I not caught that leak...we might have been gone longer. Ken

Ken,

Hang in there. I'm awaiting a phone call, and when it comes in I'll see if I can get the Prevost and Chicago Rawhide number, from which you can cross to any seal manufacturer.

You ought to replace it yourself. The first time you do it it will seem like a big deal, but from that point on it gets easier because you know the steps. The only thing that I could think of that will make you frustrated will be the flat head screws that hold the brake drum to the hub. They are a pain to break free. If you intend to do your own work this is a good place to start.

Make Ellen do the lifting. That brake drum weighs more than JDUB's wallet.

Ken,

Verify this with Prevost because they may have changed axles or hub or I may be off in my numbers. They are usually good about giving cross reference numbers to theirs on generic parts.

Front and tag axles seals: Prevost 610754, Chicago Rawhide 40086

Drive axle seal: Prevost No. unknown, Chicago Rawhide 48690

You will also need the gaskets for the outside end of the hub unless you intend to use "form-a-gasket" or something like that. (I don't, I use new gaskets with gasket seal.)

Regardless of who replaces the seals it is imperative that the seal is installed without deforming the sheet metal outer housing. The seal actually rotates within that housing and if it is pinched or binding you will replace that seal very soon. Watch that like a hawk. It is also vital that the hub gets filled with lube after everthing is assembled and before you restore the axle. You can nurse lube in there slowly (because it takes time to get past the bearing), you can tip the axle (far side as high as it will go and replacement side as low as it will go), but regardless make sure the differential is filled to the bottom of the hole with a level differential.

It is also good to have a seal installer (lines it up and you just whack it with a hammer) if you are so inclined to change it. It prevents the issue Jon spoke about with respect to the outer ring on the seal. You can do it without one, but make sure you don't screw the seal up installing it. Also check the race where the seal runs. Most generally they can be changed as well (another hammer whacking exercise) and if it is pitted or wore, that is another item to look at.

Ken,

Seal replacement and pictures are shown in the POG site under information sharing.

The seal replacement was going fine until they realized they did not have the right seal in stock. Raliegh, NC was the closest location. I have to wait until tomorrow to pick her up. Good news, the axle was in great shape....early detection saved the day. Also brake shoes in good shape. I read the post and the mechanic allowed me to look over his shoulder. We are headed to Daytona tomorrow with a solid feeling knowing the engine / tranny has just been serviced and the seal was replaced. Thank you Lew & Jon.