Grizz
11-02-2014, 07:18 PM
Further on the fresh water system during storage:
When we park (store) our coaches for more that a couple of weeks, we always do so with a full tank of fuel. You do that don’t you?
The theory behind that action is to prevent the tank from accumulating moisture caused by the tank ‘breathing’. A full tank can’t breath in dirty moist air. Same goes for the fresh water tank!
I’ve read here and there (and directly from a converter’s own publication) that when storing the coach the fresh water tank should be drained. I disagree! We all know that draining it completely is impossible. Therefore, draining the tank leaves stagnant water in the bottom with lots of air. That’s a combination for all kinds of stuff to grow in the water and on all damp surfaces.
Doesn’t it make sense to keep the fresh water tank filled when stored? I add 2 to 3 tablespoons per hundred gallons of chlorine and fill the tank through the gravity-fill, as that way to gets filled to the top. I then run that chlorinated water through all the plumbing until the smell of chlorine is present at each exit. When done top off the tank and close all the valves.
When I take the coach out of storage, I drain the tank and refill it with clean city water and flush the chlorinated water out of the plumbing. There’s no need to sanitize and drain and flush and drain and flush, etc. The system is sanitizing all the time its in storage.
Now you might ask how is it possible to do this in a location where the water will freeze? Well, it isn’t! In that situation, you have to perform the cumbersome process of draining all the plumbing and then sanitizing when re-commissioning. The good news here is, you don’t have to worry too much about anything growing in the system in that climate.
Additionally: I constantly see RVers using a carbon filter between the city water hookup and the coach when filling the tank. Carbon filters take the chlorine out of the water and non-chlorinated water is not what you want in your fresh water tank. If carbon filtration is desired, it belongs at the point of use. The only filter that should be between the coach and hose bib is a very good sediment filter. If your limited to well water and you must fill your tank add a little chlorine as a precaution, otherwise avoid it.
This is the process I’ve used successfully for 40 years. It works!
When we park (store) our coaches for more that a couple of weeks, we always do so with a full tank of fuel. You do that don’t you?
The theory behind that action is to prevent the tank from accumulating moisture caused by the tank ‘breathing’. A full tank can’t breath in dirty moist air. Same goes for the fresh water tank!
I’ve read here and there (and directly from a converter’s own publication) that when storing the coach the fresh water tank should be drained. I disagree! We all know that draining it completely is impossible. Therefore, draining the tank leaves stagnant water in the bottom with lots of air. That’s a combination for all kinds of stuff to grow in the water and on all damp surfaces.
Doesn’t it make sense to keep the fresh water tank filled when stored? I add 2 to 3 tablespoons per hundred gallons of chlorine and fill the tank through the gravity-fill, as that way to gets filled to the top. I then run that chlorinated water through all the plumbing until the smell of chlorine is present at each exit. When done top off the tank and close all the valves.
When I take the coach out of storage, I drain the tank and refill it with clean city water and flush the chlorinated water out of the plumbing. There’s no need to sanitize and drain and flush and drain and flush, etc. The system is sanitizing all the time its in storage.
Now you might ask how is it possible to do this in a location where the water will freeze? Well, it isn’t! In that situation, you have to perform the cumbersome process of draining all the plumbing and then sanitizing when re-commissioning. The good news here is, you don’t have to worry too much about anything growing in the system in that climate.
Additionally: I constantly see RVers using a carbon filter between the city water hookup and the coach when filling the tank. Carbon filters take the chlorine out of the water and non-chlorinated water is not what you want in your fresh water tank. If carbon filtration is desired, it belongs at the point of use. The only filter that should be between the coach and hose bib is a very good sediment filter. If your limited to well water and you must fill your tank add a little chlorine as a precaution, otherwise avoid it.
This is the process I’ve used successfully for 40 years. It works!