hot water tank

[gal2949]

Would somebody tell me what Liberty's original valve settings are on the engine coolant valves to the water heater for over the road heating please.
Thanks.

[Gil_J]

It has been my understanding that as late as 2006 that Liberty did not use any temperature regulation on the coolant line going to the heat exchanger in the domestic hot water heater. Instead they relied on a mixing valve between the hot and cold water supply. If they did use a temperature regulation device, my guess would be it was set between 120 and 140 degrees.

You should give Liberty a call and see what the installed to limit hot water temperature in the tank and to prevent scalding.

[gal2949]

Thanks for that comeback Gil...you're right on our '05 it is 3 valves actually...no temperature regulation...just quit driving that day before the water gets too hot.

[Gil_J]

Grant,

I can tell you how to install a temperature regulator on the coolant line. I also recommend a mixing valve between the hot and cold water. Let me know if you need the information.

[Joe Camper]

I did not have any of those components on my XL and never encountered any of those related issues. We had a Raritan water heater, I think Liberty is using those too.

Never saw not drip 1out of the safety relief valve.

How R some conversions being affected adversely and others not when similar components R in play??

If U don't have kids onboard isint it just easier to simply adjust the water temp in the shower with the hot and cold??

Why complicate further?

[Gil_J]

Joe, in a word...safety. Don't forget newer coaches are running hotter, too hot for domestic hot water. The safety fix, one that CC used, is nothing more than a electrically operated water solenoid, a relay, and a thermostat. Some think adjusting the engine coolant supply valves will work; it will not. Any solution that doesn't adjust the coolant flow based on temperature are not reliable.

To kill bad stuff, it is now recommended that hot water heaters run at 140 degrees. That's hot enough to scald pretty quickly. If your hot water is greater than 120 degrees you should consider a temperature specific mixing valve between the hot and cold water lines on the hot water heater. These are simple devices that only need to be placed in the water lines.

[Dick in Wisconsin]

These are simple devices that only need to be placed in the water lines.

Any ideas or suggestions on make, model, and where to buy?

[Gil_J]

Dick,

See if the following helps. When I went looking for a solenoid I discovered it's not easy to find one rated for over 180 degrees that's DC powered. The one I found should work, but it's only 1/2". I believe the heat exchanger fittings and Prevost hoses are 3/4". Reducing the flow to 1/2" just before entering the hot water heater's heat exchanger is no big deal. FWIW, if your coolant loop for the hot water heater supports other devices, such as basement or interior heat exchangers, this should still work, depending on how Liberty plumbed the other devices. Country Coach used separate solenoids for each device so they can each function independent of the other.
13346

[Gil_J]

Here's a 3/4" valve that can take the heat and is normally open: http://www.electricsolenoidvalves.com/3-4-12v-dc-electric-solenoid-valve-normally-open/

[Joe Camper]

Gill a variable I did not consider is my Hickox had an 8V and it does not run as hot as the 60 series. 15 or 20 degree difference.

This is almost certainly why I did not experience these issues with a Raritan water heater.