Tank Sensors

[Joe Cannarozzi]

We are getting false readings on our water tank and holding tank.

There are many products on the market.

Any suggestions and are there other products designed for other purposes that might work?

Thanks:)

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Step one: make sure the fresh water tank does not hold more than the waste holding tank.

Step two: never add fresh water unless you dump waste water.

Then you don't need no stinkin sensors.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Unfortunatly we have Identical 125's soooooooooooo I'd hate to make a mistake with the TurdDisplacmentFactor:D

[Jon Wehrenberg]

My methodology still works.

If one is completely full, and the other is completely empty it is unlikely when the fresh water is empty that the waste water will be overflowing, unless you have allowed a bunch of fraternity kids at a beer party the use of your facilities.

Generally speaking intake equals outflow.

[Ray Davis]

So, does this assume then that when parked at an RV park (for example) that you do not hook up to park water, but take showers etc from the fresh tank?

I guess a good side effect of that is that your fresh water is cycling more often, and is less liketly to get really stale.

[Ray Davis]

Joe,

When I was first looking for my bus, one of the units I saw had a new digital tank meter installed. I don't remember the name, but could easily find out, if you'd like.

It was a guage that attached a strip to the outside of the tank. The digital gauge then read out in tenths, if I remember correctly. Nothing had to be inserted into the tank, this was all external, and worked especially well with the square type of tanks we have in the bus.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Ray,

Don't analyze my smart ass remarks to Joe.:p I want the Italian Stallion on his toes. But you are right in that if the sensors do not work you do need a plan when using park water instead of what is in your tank.

I may be overly cautious, but I know our water quality here at home. I cannot say the same for campground water, especially since most do not have any backflow protection. I spent too many years putting on seminars in the plumbing industry so I know how important certain things are. Knowing a campground has no back flow protection combined with the fact that RV owners are backflushing their waste tanks with a direct fresh water connection it reconfirms that to the maximum extent possible I will only hook up if I need to take on water and dump my tanks.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

OK Ray give it up whats the scoop on this external level sensors, Im interested. Seems like that would eleminate the false readings due to schmutz. Would also simplify repair.

When we bought our bus you would not believe the lime or calcium build up on the stuff like the ice maker and the coffee maker. I NEVER put water in the fresh tank accept at home or unless I'm absolutly sure of it.Always make sure of the same before washing stuff too. I know that it doesnt help much when hooked into park water for long term but we have upgraded the filters and replace them often.

Yo Jon the next time one of those NUMEROUS unnesesary accessories or gadgets goes bad on that Liberty ya gonna fix it:eek:

[merle&louise]

Joe,

What type of water filter system do you have on your bus?

It seems that a sediment filter would solve part of your problem. I believe that Camping World sells a TCM dual filter system that works quite well. There are also the back flush models.

[mikedee]

When I purchased my Royale it had non working tank sensors. The coach uses Headhunter equipment which was all totally defective. Two new monitor panels, three tank bubblers, new control valve, 10 hours of my time and $1,800.00 and it works great.

The system uses small diaphragm pumps to pump air down a tube located in each holding tank, reads the change in pressure as the pump shuts off and the fluid returns to the static tank level and translates that information to a 1 to 6 DC voltage. The inside panels then are calibrated to display the level with lights 0 to 100%

The coach's fresh water system works like this, all water is pumped by the Headhunter pump from the holding tank always. You hook up the hose and the coach still pumps from the holding tank. When the water level drops to 20% the Headhunter panel sends 12v. to a direct acting valve solenoid valve which opens allowing water to flow into the 1 micron filter, softener, through the valve and into the tank. At 90% full the valve is de-energized and closes. When you draw water it comes from the tank, through a second carbon filter and into the coach. Trick system!!!! always soft double filtered water.

I like it now that it works, Monaco put the solenoid valve so far back over the tanks that you could see it with a flashlight but not touch it. I had to cut the PEX on both ends and pull the plumbing and the valve out. It is now relocated to an accessible area.

I just had to get this burden of the Headhunter System off my chest.

The company you are looking for is at the link below.

http://www.rvgauge.com/about_us.shtml

Mike & Dee Clark
Outdoor Resorts WINDY Las Vegas NV tonight.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Tuga. we put a second in line spin on, external hooked in line with the hose to compliment the one thats built in the bus along with the charcoal thats there. Nothing real complicated just a little extra.

Mike thanks for the responce. That sounds :cool: and could be in our future.

Rays suggestion looks simpler but I like the added aspects of what you did!

[Ray Davis]

Joe, I believe this was the guage that I saw on a bus when I was first searching. I did see it show the tank level on the digital display. What I don't know is how it worked over time.

It seems pretty straight-forward, according to this page. It's all external hookup.

http://www.viprv.com/index2.html?=seelevel.html

Ray