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flloyd
01-29-2012, 08:26 PM
Well, what a fine mess you've gotten yourself into now, Ollie....

This week's project is to add a kick heater to the kitchen area. We've loved the one in the bathroom and unlike the Elegant Lady, this 1997 classic didn't come with one in the Kitchen. Fortunately, the wiring is already in place and easy to fish out of the tunnel. I really admire the fact that Liberty wires all coaches the same and leaves the unused cables marked and tucked away, near where they would have otherwise been used.

The location for the kick heater is under the kitchen cabinet, on the kick panel below the microwave and stove top. The area there is empty and I don't anticipate any problems mounting it. I found the wire, labeled #9 on the wiring list, and it was in good shape. I removed the tape from the end and proceeded to figure out which breaker turned it on. After trying for a while, it became apparent that while the cable from the breaker to the heater had been installed, it had not been connected to the breaker panel.

I've always wanted to pull the breaker panel but have always been a bit reticent thinking that it might be fraught with danger. Let me state in advance that I do know quite a bit about electricity and am comfortable working on complex systems.

When I had the coach back to Liberty to have the ammeter replaced, I asked the tech how he did it and the reply was that you simply unscrew the panel and it tilts down. Well, today I tried it. I first shut off the inverters and then went back to the battery bay and threw the disconnect switches. I also unplugged the shore power, but left the 12V house power ON so I could have some light while I was working.

Pulling the panel was as easy as described and I was impressed how nicely the wires were bundled so as to let me tilt the panel down. I found the other end of circuit #9 and attached it to an unused breaker. Everything went as planned and there were no hiccups, until I looked into the back of the space and saw the Cruiseair air handler. The air filter was completely clogged and looked as though it may well have never been cleaned since it was installed back in 1997. No wonder, with it being located in the void behind the refrigerator, and so I carefully peeled it off it's velcro mounting. Most of the velcro came off with it and I was very lucky not to drop the thing since it was located about 1 and a half arm's length back in the cabinet, and I could only put one hand on it. Still, it came out and my wife was able to clean it and it went back on with some new velcro. The fit isn't good, but it's the same as it was when Liberty shipped it.

I've always had sub-par performance from this unit and boy, what a surprise when I buttoned everything back up and turned it on. The unit seemed to put out twice as much air as before, and it was nice and cool. With a big smile on my face, I went back to my original project which was to add the kick heater. During this time, I switched the A/C unit back off while I was testing the new heater and then, a few minutes later, turned it back on. The SMX controller on this unit is a bit different than the other ones in that it doesn't do the countdown before turning the compressor on. Still, there is a safety delay before the compressor comes on and so I'm thinking that this SMX unit is just different, or perhaps programmed differently. Now, the fun part. When the compressor comes on, the line current draws about 50 amps and I hear a big CLUNK, and the compressor fails to start. After a few minutes it will try to restart and again, big current draw and CLUNK, no compressor.

I let it wait for more than an hour and tried again. Again, big CLUNK and no-go.
What's wrong with this thing, and why would cleaning the air filter cause it? There is a serious lockup in the compressor and I don't know what to do.

While working on this, I also cleaned the port side AC filter, which was much easier to get to, although just as dirty. My overall comment on this is SHAME ON LIBERTY for designing such a crap system. It's no wonder the filters go for years between cleanings because they simply couldn't be more inconvenient to get to. Did they every get a clue and switch to replaceable filters in later models? Pure and simple, their air handler intake system sucks.

Anybody have a clue as to what's next with my CLUNKING compressor?

-fred

garyde
01-29-2012, 10:18 PM
Hi Fred. It does sound like the comprssor has locked up. Yes, my filters were hard to find the first time but now no problem.

jack14r
01-30-2012, 05:14 AM
I think Gary is right.

phorner
01-30-2012, 08:16 AM
I found that building a platform to slide the fridge out onto, made servicing the CruisAir unit a fairly easy chore.

The fridge pulls out easily after removing some trim, but it's still not something you will look forward to performing frequently.

As an added bonus, squeezing between the refer and the cabinet to get behind the fridge once it's pulled out will encourage one to stick to their diet....:cool:

flloyd
01-30-2012, 11:21 AM
Hi Fred. It does sound like the comprssor has locked up. Yes, my filters were hard to find the first time but now no problem.

Is a compressor lockup a permanent failure?

jack14r
01-30-2012, 12:25 PM
yes it is a permanent thing,if you decide to change the compressor it is a Tecumseh AKA8515-EXA,you will also need a new drier that is for a heat pump(goes both ways)you can find the compressors online for about 450 and the dryer for less than 25.The real problem with some condenser locations is getting the unit out of the bus.AAP in VA should have new condensers and they are about 2500.If you decide to purchase a new unit you might want to fix the old one for future use,since you are from AZ it might be important to have a spare.

GDeen
01-30-2012, 02:30 PM
Fred, my middle CA had this same issue last summer. Compressor locked up, as evidenced by the high start up current draw and then the shut down. I purchased a new compressor from AAP and had a local HVAC/mechanic do the replacement (with my help). Compressor was around $500, and my total bill was around $750 including the system re-charge. Much more economical than the full condensor unit replacement.

Two suggestions: 1. as Jack said, ensure you get a new filter/dryer, and it has to be a 2-way since these are heat pumps. 2. make sure that whoever does the work leaves the system on a good vacuum for plenty of time to remove the moisture from the system.

JIM KELLER
01-31-2012, 06:58 AM
Fred, If I read this correctly this failure happened right after you were in the electrical panel. Could a wire be pulled ? Is there a problem with the SMX Controler ? Does this type compressor use a start capacitor that could have had the wire pulled and it is trying to start without the help of a capacitor for a boost ? Seems strange that the only thing you did was tilt down the breaker panel, clean the filter and install the kick heater to loose the AC Compressor.

flloyd
01-31-2012, 01:12 PM
Fred, If I read this correctly this failure happened right after you were in the electrical panel. Could a wire be pulled ? Is there a problem with the SMX Controler ? Does this type compressor use a start capacitor that could have had the wire pulled and it is trying to start without the help of a capacitor for a boost ? Seems strange that the only thing you did was tilt down the breaker panel, clean the filter and install the kick heater to loose the AC Compressor.

Jim,

It worked great after I closed the panel and buttoned everything up. It was only after I shut it down and restarted that it died.

jack14r
01-31-2012, 05:28 PM
great catch!!!

JIM KELLER
02-01-2012, 08:20 AM
OK, I'm Out.