Dash A/C Compressor

[Ledo]

I also have the full brace kit to install on my dash a/c compressor and radiator fan mount of which some of us may need to update.

[dreamchasers]

Doug,

What is a "full brace kit" for the dash AC?

Hector

[truk4u]

Good question Hector. I just had to rework the two brackets that hold the compressor to the frame. These brackets allow the compressor to swivel fore and aft for belt tension adjustment. Mine were worn so bad that it was impossible to line up the pulleys. The new brackets cost $420.00, but I was able to rework them with a torch and new bolt.

8650

[Ledo]

The dash a/c compressor and radiator fan mounts are held in place with a L shaped bracket which is replaced with more of a "U" shaped mount to relieve the stress on the corner of the original mount hardware.

[Ledo]

I will try to get over to the bus and shoot a picture

[Ledo]

Here are a few images of the hydraulic pump for the radiator fan and the dash a/c compressor. The bracket is mounted on top of the pump with the upper right corner being the original weak spot. The new mounts hold it much more firmly by holding it in place on both sides not just the one. Maybe this is old news to most people but it wasn't upgraded on my bus before I bought it. Pics are not real good since the storage area is dark and I tried with my best enhancement.

[charlesebrownjr]

I think you are right. I don't know when they made the change but I did mine 2 years ago after haveing only one slack adjustment bar on one side only and it keep breaking at the weld. The new set up works much better and does not torque the compressor to one side.

[truk4u]

Same here, I do have the dual support bracket.

[Abaco]

Instead of starting new thread I'll wiggle my dash A/C question in here along with a few other items on the punch list.

1-- Just installed new dash A/C compressor and drier. Compressor won't come on after initial charge. What could be the culprit. Haven't checked rocker switch on dash or temp control knob.

2- Leveling: All works fine except won't raise manually on passenger side only. Will drop on passenger side. Raise and drop manually ok drivers side and front. Problem side will return to ride height when putting selector back to "Drive" position.

3- Interstate lead acid batteries getting lifeless so replacing those soon. Don't want more lead acid because they are in same compartment with inverters and seems like fumes/gas would be no good for inverters. I'm certain this has been discussed on forum before but what's the collective agreement on the best battery for the buck ?

4- (Gizmo question) Replacing old TV in front with 22" touch screen monitor for purposes of sales demos with customers on the coach. Want to use as TV also but need External TV tuner. There should be no need to have a computer in line for using the monitor with the external tuner should there ?

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Mark,

I can think of two possible causes for the failure of your coach to raise on the passenger side. The first place to look is to see if the coil or the solenoid in your 5 solenoid stack on the steer comparment bulkhead is working. Without getting out the book I don't know if it is the 4th or 5th solenoid down but if that coil is bad or the solenoid itself is not working that will be the cause. If you just want to swap parts, while you are playing in manual mode, just swap the top solenoid coil with the 4th or 5th. If the coil is bad the passenger side rear will function. Don't swap wires. I doubt if it is the solenoid itself so start with the coil.

If that is not the problem it is likely the problem is with the 5 port Norgen valve on the bulkhead in front of the drive axle. My money is on the solenoid coil.

You can chase problems with the AC on your coach by accessing the electrrical diagrams on the Prevost site. Start here and you can work you way to the specific drawings for your coach:http://prevostparts.volvo.com/technicalpublications/en/wiring.asp

Cheapest battery for the buck is lead acid. But most of us use gel or AGM because we get good performance and no maintenance is required other than insuring your inverters are set for the correct charging cycle. That is critical. Contact Truk. He can help. In the mean time read this:http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Using%20a%20deep%20cycle%20battery %20as%20a%20starting%20battery

Hope this helps.

[truk4u]

Mark,

Check the circuit breaker in the rear run compartment for the A/C compressor. When mine froze up last month, it tripped the breaker.

If you need AGM batteries I can help you out. If you just want to replace the chassis batteries, go with either Interstate Workaholic or NAPA, group 31, they are sealed. I just did Napa's for about 95 bucks apiece.

[Abaco]

Tom- Yeah I opened the back breaker box before the post matter of fact and they were all fine. I'm tinkering with new bike today but I guess I'll check the temp control knob and the rocker switch. eh ? PM you about the batteries. Thank you and Jon's for reply. Will trouble shoot leveling tomorrow with Jon's tips. Anybody else with A/C culprit ideas ? Is there a pressure switch that could be it ?

[truk4u]

Sent you an e-mail Mark, no PM received.

[BenC]

Tom- Yeah I opened the back breaker box before the post matter of fact and they were all fine. I'm tinkering with new bike today but I guess I'll check the temp control knob and the rocker switch. eh ? PM you about the batteries. Thank you and Jon's for reply. Will trouble shoot leveling tomorrow with Jon's tips. Anybody else with A/C culprit ideas ? Is there a pressure switch that could be it ?

Note that in the clutch electrical circuit, there is a time-delay relay capsule mounted in the rear run panel that has a resistor across the two center terminals (determines the length of time delay based on what value of resistor that is installed). I have seen these time delay capsules fail, but regardless, the compressor will not come on immediately upon startup until this times out. The standard a/c drawing is Page 12 of the Prevost schematics.