24V LED Replacement Lamps

[Sawbonz]

Anyone know where to get such an animal? The halogens pull a ton of power and put off even more heat, but Liberty didn't have a replacement when we picked her up.

[BoaterAl]

Karl,
Some time ago looking into the replacements for my ceiling lights and researching.. LED. This little thing was pointed out. Replacing with LED bulbs eliminates the process of diming the lights. LED is either on or off. Just sort of put the whole deal on the back burner.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

You might check with Rob Russell at 865-525-3888. He converts coaches and has switched over from halogen to LED. I am not sure if he has retrofitted the LED or if he requires a new controller. His last motorhome conversion does have dimming capability, but I do not know if it is a step type control or infinitely adjustable as the halogens are.

I am not sure if he will sell them to you or provide you with his source. Some converters are reluctant to reveal where they buy stuff.

[Mark3101]

I replaced all of the halogen bulbs in the bus with LED's last winter. I did not have any dimmers at all, so I did not have any issues. They are available in many different designs, and they do run MUCH cooler, and use lots less juice. They also should live longer than I will likely own this coach. Do a search for SuperbrightLEDs. They have a fairly decent website. Mine are all 12v, and I think they also had 24v.

[ajducote]

I replaced mine a while back with LED's. To get the dimmer to work, I left 1 halogen light in the string and that allowed the dimmer to work. Although, I almost always just turn it up to the highest setting anyway. Not sure if there is any long term issue with running the LED's thru the dimmer, but so far no problems.

[Sawbonz]

That's great. Thanks to all! Andre's idea is a great option to giving up. Perhaps Al will want to try again now!

[billd]

Try yonreailty@aol.com he sells 12 and 24 dc direct replacement for prevost 8.95 each led 12 volt will dim

[billd]

Try this phone # 850-926-2327 Peyton yon I spoke to him last week he has both 24v and 12 volt the web site is wrong

[Abaco]

I'll be posting a lot of stuff on little bits and pieces as I go through this coach were just getting some traction on. I'm mostly trying to work stuff into existing threads on the same topic or close to it. My rear aux flood lights for back up are toast and I'm pretty sure they are just standard aux driving lights. Should I replace with what is there or any suggestions on LED or anything brighter. I'm guessing run of the mill standard lights are good enough for that purpose but will check here since I'm a newbie at all this. Also, has anyone ever upgraded their roof top spot light ? It works ok but I sure wouldn't mind having twice the light if it didn't mean having to run a new control cable to the joy stick. Also, the aux driving lights in the bumper.........same thing. I think those are mostly so people can see you (fog,etc) but on an empty country road I would love to light that sucker up as bright as possible when no traffic is coming. What about installing another set on the roof pointed way out front. The ones down below aren't going to give me to view I'm after. Too low to the ground.

As long as I'm on lighting, what's the latest recommendation and preferred type/brand/kit,etc for the cool colored lights underneath the bus ? And how is clearance addressed ? The style I saw for cars (years ago now) were actual Neon I recall. In a plastic case or covered with acrylic or plastic if you to protect from rocks. Does one carve out a channel in the foam underneath to give it a little help ? Cost ? Reliable ? The fun factor is worth it for us depending on how many thumbs down maintenance stories come back.

Thanks in advance.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Mark, I recommend a sealed beam style light for backup. Lights that use individual lamps get too "cruded" up too easily and loose their brightness.

Careful on having extra headlights, there are laws stating the amount allowed. I'm thinking your already maxed out.

JIM

[Abaco]

I found these http://www.xtremediesel.com/rigidindustriese-seriesledlightbars.aspx You have to click the small images underneath the main display picture to see low profile bars up to 50". Two 40" bars should fit ok and the "Ugg" factor doesn't seem bad. Do the specifications tell anyone if the gain in light will be worthwhile. The height of the bus should give an advantage for pointing these way out front. The 40" light bar is $1,234 on that site above so I guess that is some indicator that they're quality and produce good light.

Who do I PM about the underside lights that has installed them ? I think Gary D's bus picture has them.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

There is no doubt a good set of rear flood or spot lights as well as side lights are critical safety items. When backing into an unfamiliar RV space at night we need to see clearly behind us as well as on the sides so we don't hit or run over any of the typical hazards such as rocks, utility boxes, other vehicles or even people.

Our coach has what are halogen lights like driving lights. When the corrosion ruined the back up lights on our first coach I went to an automotive parts store and was able to get a pair of driving lights that were an almost perfect match. They were inexpensive and their resistance to the entry of moisture which ruined the original ones was better. I mention cheap because I had to catch my breath when I saw the price of the LED lights. Maybe I am wired wrong. I want to do what Mark is doing and that is to nibble away at restoring a coach, but by buying $100 worth of driving lights I could apply the balance of the money an LED light might cost to replace air bags or brake chambers, two items that also affect safety but are easily ignored until you really need one.

[johnklopp]

When you compare different types of lights, do not judge the brightness or ability to illuminate on power draw. The measurement for the quantity of light will be expressed as LUMENS or CANDLE POWER. The difference in power draw on lights inside the coach translates directly into additional heat rejection into the coach. If you compare 2 lights with equal lumens, with one pulling an additional 10 watts of power, you will have an additional 34 BTU/hr. of heat for your AC unit to overcome.

[Abaco]

Thanks for that tip. I've been shopping for the low profile LED light bars and the big selling point of them besides brightness if low power draw. I want these for added light out in front of the coach by the way not inside. I've got to get power up to them and even with their low power draw I don't think the existing search light on top would be smart to use for the hot lead but if it would then there's my switch any everything. I don't care if the spot light stays on also. I'm switching them off when oncoming traffic passes either way. Rigid Industries seems to be one of the market leaders with these but this page does a nice job of explaining the power consumption and brightness in case someone can interpret whether the hot lead from the spot light would work. Would make installation a lot easier: http://www.magnalight.com/pc-46792-140-220-watt-led-light--19800-lumens--9-50-volts-dc--adjustable-surface-mount--spot-beam.aspx

I'm going to search the forum now for what others have done to upgrade the headlights but the YouTube demo videos I've seen with these light bars are pretty impressive for how much light they throw out. What's the short answer on head light upgrades ? Do they make a Xenon replacement for our buses ?

[Sawbonz]

I'm going to search the forum now for what others have done to upgrade the headlights but the YouTube demo videos I've seen with these light bars are pretty impressive for how much light they throw out. What's the short answer on head light upgrades ? Do they make a Xenon replacement for our buses ?

I am having Doug at Excalibur install HID upgrades on mine at the POG X rally in Austin. Number is 407-302-9139.