View Full Version : Tow Lights and Prevost
Richard Barnes
05-03-2011, 05:52 PM
I need some advice from the POG sage's. I'm having a continuing problem with Prevost Mira Loma repairing the tow light package on my coach. They have repaired it three times in the past 14 months and it just went out again. I'll spare you all of the arguments, finger pointing at Liberty and out of pocket cost. What I need is a name of someone at Liberty I can speak to about this problem. Prevost keeps installing a "module" (three time now) which they admitted to me this morning is not adequate for the load its being required to handle. They say they need to find a "larger module" and they don't know where to find one. Any name or any advice would be appreciated at this point.
Jerry Winchester
05-03-2011, 06:05 PM
Isn't a guy named Troy like a god over at Liberty? I know they draw his name like a gun every time there is a rolling bordello problem.
Jon Wehrenberg
05-03-2011, 07:32 PM
Richard,
I have had no trouble with the Liberty set up on my present coach. On the first coach which was also a Liberty set up I made my own because it was not designed to run the number of lights and the lighting pattern I wanted which was to have the turn signals separate from the stop lights. I was using Freuhauf trailer tailight modules which slipped into the toad hitch receiver.
What I found was it was easy to use the power tapped off the Prevost tail lights to energize a relay coil, and I used the 12 volt lug in the rear power box as my toad tail light power source, through the relays. I used relays with 24 volt coils (12 volt coils for your coach will work) switching power from the 12 volt post through the parking light, left and right turn signals and the stop lamps. Four relays. I bought them from ww Grainger along with bases and mounted them in the electric box. In the 15 years we drove that coach they never failed.
jack14r
05-03-2011, 09:34 PM
I had the same problem and bought a HD unit from http://store.besttruckeq.com/
joelselman
05-05-2011, 03:52 PM
I'm GUESSING that the problem is related to the "module" converting the Prevost separate turn signals to combined turn signals/brake lights on many towed vehicles. These used to be fairly reliable devices but I imagine most are currently made in China! If this is indeed the part at issue, an internet search for taillight converter will probably find a higher quality product. By the way, where are you...your profile say Ga, but you're servicing at Mira Loma???
Richard Barnes
05-05-2011, 07:35 PM
Joel,
I live in the Atlanta area but my largest client is on the West Coast. I travel to LA every week and spend about 160 days a year here. I keep my coach in Long Beach and live in it while on the left coast.
Kuhlsport
05-13-2011, 08:24 AM
I just purchased a Blue Ox Aventa LX towbar and baseplate for my RAM 2500. The wiring kit that came with is going to require addition of diodes, connector adaptors, splicing, pull wiring under the truck, etc. This kit installs new dedicated rear bulbs in the truck's tail rather than tap into the truck's OEM wiring. Before I dive into this, thought I would check here for advice on some other mfrs system that may be easier to work with. Anyone tackled this Blue Ox install before and have a list of "gotchas" I should look out for? Thanks in advance.
Jon Wehrenberg
05-13-2011, 08:49 AM
I have been towing a RAM 1500. I did not install diodes. I connected directly into the truck stop/turn/parking lights with no ill effects.
I use a Brakemaster supplemental braking system so to prevent battery drain when the Brakemaster applies brakes via the brake pedal I installed a battery disconnect that I got at Camping World.
My RAM is a 2002 and I do not know if later models are affected by applying power from the bus to the light circuits. Our Grand Cherokee required diodes, not because of back feeding to computers, but because the wires in the GC were cross connected somehow and applying a turn signal on one side caused the opposite side to flicker so the diodes were added.
rahangman
05-13-2011, 11:36 AM
With several posts alluding to difficulty or problems with Toad lighting, I wonder how well the "Wireless" tow light arrangements work. As I have read, you plug it into your bus connection, then afix the lights to rear of toad, regardless of what make/model. From the bus to rear of toad is wireless. About $150 and I am not sure how one would affix the lights to toad, whether suction cups in rear window or what. Wouldn't want something tacky looking or not secure from theft or movement.
Gary Carmichael
05-13-2011, 11:55 AM
Richard, Had the same problem when I left Fla this spring, No lights on toad used flashers when braking, got to a repair facility was a diode in the compartment below drivers seat. Troy tried to help but could not figure it out on phone, so far so good I am not the best when it comes to electrical problems. 4 amp diode.
Kuhlsport
05-13-2011, 07:11 PM
I got the RAM wired up today without any hassles. I installed the separate bulb set from Blue Ox in the tail lamp housings. Before I pulled the wire loom up to the front bumper for termination at the base plate, I tested my work by simply touching the wires to the correct spades on truck's trailer socket. Everything worked fine. Will be interested to see how many wires feed into the back of the plug on the bus. If 5 I need to convert down to 4. If 4, then I should be good. What is the easiest way to determine which wire is which at the bus plug? Bus is stored 30 minutes away and have not actually looked at the Liberty end of this deal yet. I'd like to try to accomplish something without a call to Troy if possible. I owe that guy a case of wine already!
Jerry Winchester
05-13-2011, 07:26 PM
I have always just used a test light, but depending on the plug, most of them are marked so that makes it easy.
Mark3101
05-13-2011, 07:48 PM
I got the RAM wired up today without any hassles. I installed the separate bulb set from Blue Ox in the tail lamp housings. Before I pulled the wire loom up to the front bumper for termination at the base plate, I tested my work by simply touching the wires to the correct spades on truck's trailer socket. Everything worked fine. Will be interested to see how many wires feed into the back of the plug on the bus. If 5 I need to convert down to 4. If 4, then I should be good. What is the easiest way to determine which wire is which at the bus plug? Bus is stored 30 minutes away and have not actually looked at the Liberty end of this deal yet. I'd like to try to accomplish something without a call to Troy if possible. I owe that guy a case of wine already!
One more thought...I did not terminate my separate socket wiring at the front of the tow vehicle, I put a 7 way plug on it and just connect that right to the plug on the back of the bus. The wiring harness was long enough and I just roll it up and use some velcro wraps and tie it under the hood when not using it. This eliminates another connector and I think it looks better on the tow vehicle as it is not seen unless it is pulled out and hooked to the bus. The BlueOx kit had enough wiring to do this on my Tahoe, not sure about the Dodge.... All you need is the 7 way connector for additional parts. Easy and quick way to finish the job...
michaeldterry
05-17-2011, 07:01 PM
With several posts alluding to difficulty or problems with Toad lighting, I wonder how well the "Wireless" tow light arrangements work. As I have read, you plug it into your bus connection, then afix the lights to rear of toad, regardless of what make/model. From the bus to rear of toad is wireless. About $150 and I am not sure how one would affix the lights to toad, whether suction cups in rear window or what. Wouldn't want something tacky looking or not secure from theft or movement.
Rodger - we use the wireless tow lights and love them! The lights affix to the rear deck or roof of the toad magnetically - just place them where you want them, push the "on" button, and you're ready to roll!
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