View Full Version : Changing Upper control arm bushings 2003 XLII
fixrim
04-18-2011, 11:58 PM
Greetings everyone!
I had my coach aligned nearly two years ago, due to excessive outer tire edge wear. The fine folks at Prevost in Dallas were happy to liberate me from a large sum of money. A couple of expensive tires later I was on the road. I've put 35000 miles on since that time and my new tire has worn the edge off all the way to the cords. Prevost Dallas looked at it again, and said that bushings could fail that often. I would suggest they missed it the first time, and now I have a dead tire and another alignment expense.
Anyway, I have had very bad luck there...
So, does anyone know the procedure for replacing the bushings? It looks simple enough, I do plenty of automotive and general fabrication work, so I am going to do this myself.
I am wondering how to stabilize the spindle (upright) when I sperate the upper control arm from the spindle. I am used to doing this on a car where the spindle weighs 15 lbs. The upper control arm bolts look easy enought to remove, and this looks like a fairly simple job.
Prevost quoted me a sum of $1800 to replace these on one side, seems liike a lot for 2 rubber bushings...
Can anyone enlighten me on this task?
Thanks all
Jon Wehrenberg
04-19-2011, 08:02 AM
Bob,
I have NEVER worked on an IFS or replaced bushings so take this with a grain of salt.
Some members have replaced bushings only, and some have replaced the entire A arm. From the posts I read and from a basic understanding of how the front suspension is assembled it appears to be a job an owner with mechanical skills and tools can do. Either way.
My reason for posting is because I have had two different opinions relative to this from two professionals who maintain professional fleets. One has been getting about 400,000 or more per set of bushings. When they need to be replaced he replaces bushings only. He then has the front end re-aligned. My memory may not be completely accurate, but I think he said his total cost is less than half what you were quoted.
A second posture on this comes from a person responsible for a fleet of 20 coaches. He buys the entire A arm with bushings so his method is to remove and replace. I did not speak to him about re-alignment so I don't know if he feels the need or if he just reassembles the coach. He leases his tires in case that makes a difference in attitude where the first guy buys his tires.
If you want to send me a PM or email I will give you the names and contact information for these guys and you will have solid information from experts.
fixrim
04-19-2011, 09:45 AM
Thanks John, my fear is that when I remove the upper a arm from the spindle that the spindle will be very heavy and will fall over and I won't be able to get it back into place! I am used to a stock car control arm, light nimble and worth about $80. The control arm on this thing as massive!
I looked at this and it looks really simple. I think when a service shop sees the bus, they see $$$ and they feel like they can soak me. The prices I have been quoted for most service on this bus in pretty insane...
Denny
04-19-2011, 11:35 AM
Bob,
This is the classic "is the glass half empty or half full?". I had both upper and lower A arms replaced on my former XL bus at Prevost in New Jersey and they said it was less costly to replace the entire arm versus just the bushings. This was about 4 years ago and as I recall they used a jack stand to support the spindle while replacing the upper arm? Was a simple operation.
Jon Wehrenberg
04-19-2011, 11:53 AM
I think Denny supplied the answer. As I enter old fartdom things I used to do with brute strength I now do with levers, jacks, supports, come-alongs, etc.
So far, despite having some pretty heavy stuff to deal with such as the 50DN alternator, the 8D batteries, brake drums, hubs, fan clutch and other assorted heavy stuff I have been able to find ways to eliminate the need to rely solely on my strength. One thing I learned from having to handle and move 3000 pound concrete products (in another life) is to stop and think before getting myself between a rock and a hard place. I think that applies to our buses.
travelite
04-19-2011, 12:01 PM
Bob,
The late model Wanderlodges used an IFS by ArvinMeritor. Here's a document that explains how to do it on the BB suspension. It may help:
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/ArvinMeritorRIS16EFSuspension.pdf
Denny
04-19-2011, 12:12 PM
I learned from having to handle and move 3000 pound concrete products (in another life) is to stop and think before getting myself between a rock and a hard place. I think that applies to our buses.
Jon, If you didn't you could get yourself buried real easy!
lonesome george
04-19-2011, 12:44 PM
Bob,
Replacing the upper control arm bushings is not a real tough project. I have done it on my XL.
Perhaps Kevin Erion will chime in he has replaced the bushings on an XLII, he answered some questions for me when I did it.
The bushing are cheap for an XL about $60 each, XLII's are probably a little more, XLII bushings are larger than an XL bushings.
The Prevost tech manual covers the procedure and calls for a press tool for the bushings that can be improvised with tube. Getting the snap ring that retains the bushing out of the control arm was the most difficult step for me.
Give me a call if you like 317-539-5472, Q&A on the spindle (Prevost calls this an axle) will be much easier for me over the phone.
Jerry Winchester
04-19-2011, 03:06 PM
I seem to also remember the quote that said it was cheaper to replace the whole control arm rather than pull it and replace the bushings.
Jon Wehrenberg
04-19-2011, 04:53 PM
I learned from having to handle and move 3000 pound concrete products (in another life) is to stop and think before getting myself between a rock and a hard place. I think that applies to our buses.
Jon, If you didn't you could get yourself buried real easy!
You know what I am talking about Denny. That experience helped me understand the weight or mass of something should not be an impediment as long as I am willing to think carefully about the consequences of my actions.
For those who do not have the insight Denny has, let me say I was the last one to let you down.
fixrim
04-19-2011, 05:25 PM
Thanks for all your help guys...
travelite
04-19-2011, 10:57 PM
The Prevost tech manual covers the procedure and calls for a press tool for the bushings that can be improvised with tube.
I'd love to get my hands on a copy of that manual. Is it available thru Prevost parts?
Jon Wehrenberg
04-20-2011, 07:50 AM
David,
You can see Prevost manuals on line. I haven't done this for a while so I don't know the path other than access is through the maintenance section on the Prevost web site. You can look up anything that is in the shop manuals for any model or model year.
I have the hard copy which is why I don't often go on line, and I don't have comuter access when in my coach, but anyone with computer access can see the same manuals.
lonesome george
04-20-2011, 05:54 PM
David,
Yes, Prevost parts will have the maintenance manuals. I just purchased a new one the one that came with my bus was missing some stuff. I prefer a paper manual for servicing and making repairs.
The last time I used the Prevost site for maintenance data I could not get any information past a 2000XL, don't know where the information went for the older buses but I could not get to it.
BrianE
04-21-2011, 01:44 AM
Bob, I replaced the upper A arm bushings on our 98 XL last fall. Not a big deal. It helps to have an extra set of hands because they are heavy. Help is also nice when pressing in the new bushings. The force required is minimal but they are awkward. Once installed it's a minor challenge to get the spindles back in the axle assy. A little jack-work gets the job done. I also replaced the ball joint on one side. Prevost replaces the whole A arm when this is required due to labor time in replacing the ball joint. It is a bit of a hassle but definitely do-able if you're using sweat equity. Good luck.
fixrim
05-02-2011, 08:01 PM
Well I finally got this done, and yeah the bus fought me every step of the way! Seperating the upper ball joint called for a sledge hammer. a regular 5lber wouldnt do it. Pressing in the new bushings was more than my 12 ton press could handle, so it had to be subbed out. All added up I spent under $200 for a job that took me about 4 hours total that I was quoted $3800 for!
Now onto the stock car!
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