Start battery isolator

[lewpopp]

I just ran my coach today after letting it sit idle for 4 weeks. I flipped the two switches in the rear and when I went to start I half expected to have to jump start the coach to start it. Normally, everytime I tried to start the coach this past summer the start batteries were dead and I had to hit the jump button. Not this time, it popped right off. Did the isolator decide to work all of a sudden?

The four start batteries and only 9 months old. I thought they could be defective prior to my todays experience. Now I expect there was a temporary draw down this summer.

What's your take?

Lew

[win42]

Lew: Make sure there are no wires other than the one leading to the power post of the disconnect switch. If there is, determine if they are 12V or 24V and re- hook them to the off side of their respective disconnect switches. When you leave the switch's off, there will be no draw possible. Check all of your battery connections and cables. It helps to remove them and clean the cable and battery posts with a wire brush & file once a year. Coat them with battery terminal coating after re-connecting. If the batteries are low, after storage, I find starting them from the rear works best, then turn on the key and switch over to the front after the engine is running.
"Battery Tenders" or the pulse device left on during storage will insure the batteries will be ready to go. If the batteries are flooded type, maintain the water level to just above the plates.

Put your bar change in a big jar, because every five years you'll need it for new batteries. Good Luck.