SALON MAKEOVER (That's fancy talk for Living Room)

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I am now a few days into gutting and redoing our coach living room. I will post pictures as the project unfolds, but here is the effort to date.

We are looking for several changes that we think will help us enjoy the coach more than we already do. Di has never like the Berber carpeting in our living room and entryway. We both would like to replace it with a laminate flooring knowing as our dogs age we will no longer kennel them, but bring them with us. A laminate floor will make the grief associated with dirty paws go away because it can just be wiped down. Right now we have to take off our shoes so we don't track in and we both would like to walk in without removing shoes.

Well to do the floor we have to pull out everything sitting on it from the front all the way back to the kitchen tile. Since we never really liked the chenile type upholstery fabric on our sofas having them out is a good excuse to get them reupholstered in leather, again thinking of a surface that would be more dog friendly, and easy to wipe down. We do like the sofas in that they have storage under them in two drawers each and we like the extra seating the sofas provide. What we don't like is the passenger side sofa has no place within reach to set a drink. So to make the three place sofas more user friendly we are adding a center armrest on each with a Corian top to rest drinks and snacks. Now the sofas will be two place sofas with center armrests and plenty of room for four people to sit. We don't have guests overnight in the coach so that is not a concern.

Since we are getting new material on the sofas, we decided ot purchase a pair of dining chairs more to our liking and will have the seats upholstered to match the sofas.

The sofas came out through the door because they are constructed to be easily disassembled. It makes the handling easier for me and Di because the largest heaviest piece is the base of the sofas. So now the sofas are out and the mechanical stuff beneath them is exposed. I found one of the Webasto heat exchanger motors was not able to be serviced because the sofa frame sat over it, so I will relocate that unit before re-installing the sofas. I am changing to extended life coolant so now is the time to replace hoses on the Webasto units.

This project is not necessarily overwhelming as long as I have patience, but getting everything loose or removed such as the sofas, cabinet, driver and passenger seats is a challenge in finding how they are secured, most of the time with hidden fasteners. Now that I know where the fasteners are the reassembly will be easy. The real challenge is going to be able to find or create the trim and transition pieces for the floating floor because it has so many details that will never be found in a typical home flooring project.

Pictures and updates to follow.

[rickdesilva]

Jon,
With all your cash buy a new coach! Come on help the economy!

[dreamchasers]

Jon,

I am thinking of the same project for my coach. Pictures of what you encounter will be great. My coach is 1995 model, so I am in the year model zone for interior upgrades.

Hector

[hobobimmer]

That is exciting stuff, Jon. Good luck. If you need an extra hand or two (or four) for any part of it, we can be there in an hour. Can't wait to see the pics as you work through the project. Deb

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Jon,
With all your cash buy a new coach! Come on help the economy!

Do I really have to explain again why I like rivets??????

[Jon Wehrenberg]

That is exciting stuff, Jon. Good luck. If you need an extra hand or two (or four) for any part of it, we can be there in an hour. Can't wait to see the pics as you work through the project. Deb

Deb, I liked how you volunteered Eric. I lifted the sofa bases and the two front seats out of position myself. I can tell you that I am considering asking for some help because the sofas are cumbersome and the front seats are just plain heavy. I may give a call when the time comes.

Pictures tomorrow.

[tpr]

Jon,

I have a cocker spaniel who digs on the leather sofa before he settles down. He hasen't ripped throught it but does leave scratch marks. I don't know if your are looking for that distressed look. Just a thought.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

The chenile type fabic that we had would be a magnet for dog hair so that had to go. Both dogs, for whatever reason will never jump up on furniture. If that changes if and when they come on trips with us we will have to deal with it.

[truk4u]

Getting rid of the carpet is the best thing you will do. The Krackmobile and Liberty have/had no carpet and it's great.

Let me know if you need help, I'll call the King for you!:p

[hobobimmer]

No need to bother the king. Eric confirmed that he is very willing to help. So, you have 4 willing and able hands at your service. Let us know when and we will figure out how to help. Deb and Eric

[rfoster]

I can help on Friday afternoons. After eating of course.

[Gary Carmichael]

Jon is there anything you won't tackle on that Liberty? You should write a book, My hat is off to you! By the way I'll pick up those stands in the next 2-3 weeks I will call first, don't let any of those bus parts roll down the hill, good luck.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

The progress so far has been slow and painful

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This is a view of the sofas. The fabric is being replaced with leather. The tan berber carpeting is being replaced with a laminate. (at least that is today's plan).

Step one is to get the sofas out and get the floor ready for stripping.

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[Jon Wehrenberg]

Stripping the interior is involved, but not particularly complex. Removal of the passenger and driver's seats was a job involving heavy lifting and loosening the cabinet involved searching for all the hidden screws.

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With everything loose or out the process of pulling the old carpeting was started. I have shed a lot of blood because in addition to the normal carpet strips with pins around the perimeter the carpet and foam underlayment was held in place with staples. The staples have managed to penetrate my hands numerous times. the hardest part however is pulling all the staples because the floor must be smooth and clean before I can install the flooring.

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The easy part is the center of the room. The carpeting around the Webasto heaters and around the stairwell and in the drivers area is stapled and glued and I have resorted to pry bars and scrapers.

[bonhall41]

When you're done with yours, I'd like you to replace the carpet in ours with the granite that's in the mid-section of the coach. Just let us know when you're ready to start. Thanks.

Bonnie

[HarborBus]

Ambitious project Jon, but it looks like you have it under control. Sounds like you have enough offers from helpers, lucky guy. Keep those pictures coming.

[garyde]

Hi Jon. I have been thinking about removing my carpet as well and replacing with wood flooring. I wanted to lay down some kind of sound dampner material prior to laying a wood floor . Have you considered this? Also, is it necessary to remove the carpet under the Couch or leave it.
My Coach already has tile in the front drivers seat, landing and stairs floor area, so that would remain.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Gary,

I have yet to select the specific brand and type of laminate but have ruled out a true hardwood floor. As much as it would solve some issues such as the height difference between the tile and the living room sub floor, it creates others. From Harry Hoppe we learned the best sound deadener is thick and dense so 3/4" oak hardwood seems to me to offer the best sound deadening.

All of the laminates I am studying come with a resiliant foam backing, or require one. None recommend adding additional foam material beneath the planks. I don't know if I am doing anything with this change in flooring to increase or decrease sound levels. I can only guess that if you seek sound deadening, but wish to go with laminates that adding a 3/8" additional layer of high quality plywood or equivalent would serve to deaden sound.

As to removing the carpet beneath the sofas I think it is a must. My sofas have a curved base and fitting flooring up to and matching the curves would be not only difficult, but the width of the planks and the joints could be compromised. As it is, the cutting and fitting of the new flooring under or around various items such as the Webasto heat exchangers is going to be an issue even though they are under the sofa and out of sight. My biggest concerns now relate to installed heights. The sofas had carpet beneath them and the new floor has to have an installed thickness equal to the height of the compressed carpet and padding so the sofa structure clears the Webastos.

But the cabinetry behind and around the driver's seat was secured to the sub floor, but now it will sit upon the new flooring. That is going to require some reworking along the area where the parking brake surface joins the cabinetry due to the increase in installed height. My point is you have to see what your specific situation is and if or how it will be affected by changing the flooring from carpet to wood or laminates.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

The next step while the sofas are being reupholstered is to lay the floor. The prep work is done, the floor has been stripped to the plywood sub floor and now I need to start gathering the materials.

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The top photo shows my greatest challenge, but I think I have this resolved. All transition and trim pieces for laminate flooring are straight and I need to have the transition at the ceramic tile curve to match the free form curve in the tile while transitioning from the thinner laminate flooring to the thicker tile.

A few hours on Google may have provided the solution. I have several options including flexible plastic transition pieces and bendable metal pieces. I am leaning to the more substantial metal shapes, but until I know the exact thickness of the laminate I will not know which will be more suitable.

Not shown is my step slide cover. I removed that this morning and find it is the ideal way to access the slide cylinder. When I start installing the flooring I am going to try to set that area up so I can lift the planks to expose the cover for possible future maintenance. If that doesn't work out I will see if I can service the cylinder from below.

I am not going to put laminate under the pedals. I am painting the area around and behind the pedals flat black and will only run the laminate up to the pedals and around the side of the pedals. The carpeting did not go beneath the pedals.

Because the carpeting did not go under the cabinet around the driver's seat the lower edges of the Vitricor were hidden with the carpet. Now that the lower edges are exposed it is not very pretty. I am going to see if I can trim the lower edges of the cabinet, such as using welting, or a band of trim around the bottom or some other solution to dress it up. The devil is in the details.

In case anyone gets into a project like this, recognize that road dust and dirt is found everywhere. As well as things are sealed I am finding the dust from the roads everywhere. I am sure some of it comes from the fresh air intake on the ventilation system up front, but there must also be other sources I am unaware of. Carpeting that was never walked on and never exposed has a darker color than carpeting that was captured between two hard surfaces such as beneath the driver's seat baseplate and the area beneath the sofa frames. Ironically the carpet padding had the same darker color except where it was also compressed between two surfaces. I have been doing a lot of vacuuming to try to reach into places and get that accumulated dust.

[Pete]

Jon, been there, done that! As a matter of fact 4 times, and you are right, the devil is in the details. I have used the same material used for sound deadening in restoring automobiles under carpeting, and depending on the method you are using to attach the wood flooring to the sub-flooring, (with nails), it can be used on wood. The material is the two wafers of aluminum foil with the bubble wafer in the center. Available at most home improvement stores, is inexpensive and very easy to use. And it provides very good sound deadening.

As far as your transition is concerned, I used an accent lighting strip to match the rest of the accent lighting in the coach around the windows, ect.

It is a lot of work, but when finished I'm sure it will be very enjoyable, it will be "Just like you wanted it to be"

[truk4u]

Jon,

This rubber floor for the driver area that Brian put in my Liberty was fantastic. Just something else to consider.

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[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Jon, you "cuttin" WOOD yet, how's that floor project coming along?

JIM

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I'm cutting and fitting. Pictures of the progress soon.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Real progress has been made

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The pictures are in no special order but show how it is evolving. I haven't taken the latest pictures which show the driver's area done except for some trim around the pedals.

Tomorrow I expect to have that done as well as the trim between the marble and the living room floor.

The hardest part was figuring how I wanted to trim out the floor such as around the step well because that determined how I placed the flooring. I opted to use no glue or adhesives so if I had to remove the cover over the step well I would remove the screws from the bullnose and lift flooring sections.

I made my errors beneath the curb side sofa area learning the tricks to putting down the flooring. They will not show with the sofa in place. Once I got it figured out the project has gone quite well.

I should note that I made it a point to not disturb the pedals. In addition to some trim I will paint the area in a semi gloss black rendering the pedal bases somewhat invisible. There will be flooring behind the pedals.

[rfoster]

Jon: That looks great! I thought you were a metal man, but now I see you can work with wood. Good job.

[Pete]

Jon, looks great! Can't wait to see the finished product!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I intend to finish trimming it out today, or at least having a solid plan on how I am going to do it.

For anyone contemplating doing this I can say that the cost of materials is less than $300. But the time spent is a lot. I probably have 4 or 5 hours of head scratching and layout work trying to figure out how I wanted to trim it out. The area around the floor slide was the determining factor and everything else keyed off that. One thing that has proven to be forgiving is that I have two sofas so almost all of the floor is covered and therefore detail trim work at the sides is not required. If we had chairs along one wall it would have made the job less forgiving.

In terms of the hardest physical part, removing and handling the seats is tough. They are very heavy and I am not going to try to replace them myself. The cabinet that wraps around the driver's seat has been a handling issue because of the bundle of wires going into it I have spent a lot of time lifting it and swinging it around to be able to get the flooring beneath it. But that is done now so my final move before resecuring that cabinet in place will be to put the driver's seat back. I can slide that on a piece of carpet, but accessing the bolts is going to be a challenge because I can only move the cabinet a limited distance.

The acid test will be how well it does over time and during temperature changes. The flooring is designed to float and there is no way that will happen. The nature of installing laminate in a bus is that it is going to be captured beneath the front seats, the sofas and the cabinet. The only area not captured is the exposed portion between the sofas so if it buckles or cracks it will be a repeat of the process with another type of flooring. Now that I have done this I can say it will be very easy the second time around because I will know what to do.

More pictures later.

[dale farley]

Jon, As usual, you're doing an excellent job. Looks great! I'll wax your bus, if you'll do my floors. I know you don't use wax, but that sound like a good deal to me!

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Nice job, looks A-1 to me!


JIM

[JIM KELLER]

Dale, This would be a Great Deal. Based on Jon's 300 est and my 450 to 550 pre determined cost you could get a new floor and he would owe you money ! See if he will go for it.

[dale farley]

Jim K., I assume the only reason Jon hasn't replied is that he is thinking about it and trying to convince himself he wouldn't be ripping me off if we made this agreement. Since he is a man of integrity, he will probably agree to do the bedroom also.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Can you guys share some of those recreational chemicals you appear to be taking?

I wondered what I got myself into as I was ripping out the old carpet and bleeding from the staple and tack strip wounds, and knew I was in over my head trying to figure out how I was going to deal with all the details you never think about before it is too late.

If you think I want to repeat this project any time soon, especially on a CC you guys have really gotten into the mind altering substances.

[truk4u]

Nice job floor man, now tell me where to get the flexible transition pieces that you were suppose to share with me!

[dale farley]

Jon, Our minds were altered long before any of the "mind altering substances" were around.

[gmcbuffalo]

Jon
What is the gray material that is under the wood? If buckling is an issue maybe the flooring could go in perpendicular to the walls.
Greg

[Jon Wehrenberg]

It's done. I will clean up my mess, vacuum the floor and post pictures.

I ad-libbed on the transition piece as photos will show. I hand formed a piece of aluminum channel to create a transition piece that also functions to hold the ends of the laminate. I intentionally secured it with screws so I can remove it when I find something better. Although it is not great, it is better than anything else I can find. It's intent is not only to secure the ends of the laminate, but to prevent edge chipping on the marble. It should do both.

I don't think it matters whether the floor runs north south, east west or diagonal. it is still going to be captured by all the components that in my case are sofas, front seats, wrap around cabinet, etc. the nature of our coaches as compared to a house floor is such that a product intended for floating is going to be secured.

The grey material is a foam rubber underlayment. Some flooring systems have the underlayment secured to the individual boards and some require the material to be layed first.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

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Here is the area around the pedals. The aluminum trim is the same used as a transition at the kitchen tiles.

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The same aluminum channel used a different way to prevent the edge of the marble tiles from chipping. It is not the best idea in the world, but until I can get a strip of Corian, shape it with a bullnose, and heat form it to match the tile curvature this will work fine.

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It's lacking without the sofas and other items in place to put it all in perspective, but the floor is done and looks good. Tomorrow I am going to start installing the driver's seat which I will install in pieces that are manageable. Once the seat is installed I will secure the wrap around cabinet in place. Then until the sofas are done and ready for installation I will be at a standstill.

[dale farley]

Looks great Jon. What kind & color flooring is that?

[Sid Tuls]

Looks great Jon !! I enjoyed watching the work in progess. I just wish I could do something like that!! I just don't have them skills. Look forward to seeing the finished pictures!!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Looks great Jon. What kind & color flooring is that?

Dale,

I don't know what the finish is called. It looks like a red oak. The material is a laminate like Pergo. We picked it based on the color. We tried to keep it towards the light side because we think dark tends to make the coach seem smaller. The sofas will be a dark green leather that goes well with the interior colors, but we were afraid if the floor were a darker color the living room area would feel much smaller than it is.

Sid,

I am not a carpenter and this is the first time I ever layed flooring of any type. All my mistakes are going to be covered by the curb side sofa which is where I started. By the time I got to where the flooring is going to be visible I got the hang of it. My tools were a cheap table saw that I have had for about 40 years and a miter or chop saw that I bought 10 years ago to finish building my deck. Cutting a 2 X 4 requires less care than cutting the trim around my stair well, but I took my time and actually the bus is built to be forgiving. As long as the corners on the step well trim came together, the ends of the trim could vary a little because the opposite end butted up to the leather on the dash and that had a lot of give to it. All of the flooring where trim would ordinarily be an issue is beneath two sofas and out of sight.

This turned out to be an easy, cheap project and I probably spent 30% of my time stripping the living room of the furnishings and carpet, and more time than I would have thought locating the various fasteners which secure everything in place. When I re-install everything I am making notes or marking the fasteners that hold everything in place because once I found them removal of the sofas, cabinet and chairs was simple. Removing the old carpeting was very hard because in various spots it was secured in place with tack strips. glue, or long staples.

This floor is installed without a drop of glue or adhesive. If it ever has to be redone it will come up easily and quickly and now knowing the process, working alone I would guess I could remove and replace it in about 30 hours by myself. Since this was the first time I ever tackled something like this I spent an incredible amount of thinking time to make sure I wasn't backing myself in a corner and learning how to get flooring under a cabinet I could not remove, or at least move very far. It was too heavy for me to lift so I spent a lot of time tipping, sliding, and raising portions of it as I placed each row of flooring in place.

If anyone wants to change their floor from carpeting to a laminate I can now say it will be a little time consuming, but there is nothing particularly difficult. I do know already from cleaning up my mess that wiping this flooring down with a damp towel is all it takes to clean up smudges and footprints. And the best part is I have been walking in the bus with my shoes on without feeling guilty.

[Pete]

Everyone is invited to a dance in Jon's bus the next time we all get together! Looks great Jon!

[AprilWhine]

This is Jim, AKA the fuzzy one, or mr. AprilWhine. Too cheap to pay for my own membership.

That looks great, thanks for the posts and the photos. I have already seen that the white carpet is going to be a disaster, so I will steal liberally from your work.

Jim

[treedoc]

Jon Nice job! I look forward to the finished product. I really liked the trim around the seat base plates. Would that same trim work around the foot padels or would the placement of your heel be a problem. Rick

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Rick,

The trim around the passenger seat base plate is "T" molding with a laminate surface to match the flooring. It was my first attempt at trimming and I picked that spot to do it because it will be hidden behind the skirting on the passenger seat. It looks OK, but not great. That area was a challenge because the seat base tracks which are formed cross channels do not line up with the plywood flooring. Not readily visible is the fact I had to compensate for the uneven surface the flooring had to cross so the trim covers some sins in an area of the flooring that will not be exposed to foot traffic. I don't think that trim or the stair well bullnose will have the durability of aluminum, but in the case of the bullnose for the step well it is secured with screws and I am considering it a throw away piece and easily replaced and time it gets ratty.

I used the aluminum trim around the edges of the pedal area because I stacked a second piece of laminate on the flooring to cover the exposed bolts of the accelerator pedal. I had to conceal the edges of that piece and I wanted something that would take the constant scuffing of my feet in that area. It's hard to explain but if you take a close look at the pedals on your coach you will see that area does not lend itself to an elegant soultion. I was not going to raise the pedals and run the flooring beneath them which would have been the best way of keeping the job neat. When the bus was converted Liberty did not run the carpeting beneath the pedals but worked it around them. I figured if they went to that much trouble to avoid removing the pedals there had to be a reason.

[Seabyrd]

Jon... I would hate for you to run out of things to do... your project is looking just awesome as I expected it would !! Just a thought before the couches go back in..Ebay has 2 new prevost cabinet interiors in wood.. check this out..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190465305847&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Just thought it was interesting, I've never seen a complete new cabinet interior for sale before. Maybe someone out there will have a use for one of them. I suppose you'd have to be starting with a shell to use one of these to get the plumbing and wiring right.

Was just thinking about you and Di... we really enjoyed meeting you both in Kerrville.

Happy renovating !! We're loving the pictures, keep them coming !

[Jon Wehrenberg]

We are stuck with two sofas. From the photos you can see the Webasto units that take up the space beneath the road side sofa. Not so visible is all the cabling for the satellite controls that go in a drawer under that sofa.

The curb side sofa goes over large speakers which were removed and are awaiting re-installation. As much as we wanted a cabinet and two chairs on the curb side it just is not about to happen unfortunately.

We know from experience over the years that we need at least two chairs so even if we could get a large cabinet to cover the speakers we couldn't live with one chair so we have compromised by retaining the sofa, converting it into a two place sofa and adding a center armrest with a Corian top surface to provide a space to hold drinks (we have no place to set a coffee cup on the curb side now and have to hold one).

Here are some more photos of the beginning of the reassembly.

Installing and removing the driver's seat was a nasty job and the design of how the base is mounted is just plain dumb. I broke it down into three pieces and as the pictures show I installed the base, connected air and electric and mounted the mechanical part.

The base was the easiest part to install.

Attaching the connections was easy.

And installing the mechanical part is miserable. Four bolts secure it from below and they are almost impossible to start threading, and once started the wrench has to be put on the bolt head by feel or with the use of a mirror. Anyone contemplating removing and reinstalling the driver's seat can plan on spending at least an hour to remove or replace the four screws securing it to the base pan.

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[hobobimmer]

Looking great Jon!

[mike kerley]

Super Job. Looks great and much lighter than our Granite. You are a master craftsman.....

[Ray Davis]

Nice job. Maybe someday I'll be brave enough to try that!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I hope everyone keeps this project in perspective. There is nothing I did that required special skills or tools. The biggest issue for anyone that wants to do a living room make over is to have a good place to do it and the time. I have a nice garage and I pulled the cars out and put the saws in their place (the project does create a lot of dust and scraps) and I am 15 paces from the garage so this project was pretty easy.

I cannot think of anything that would be beyond anyone's skills as long as they had a table saw and a good miter saw.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Now it is starting to get to be fun because I am seeing the end.

The driver's seat is installed and the cabinet around it is back in place. The speakers on the curb side are set back in place and it is just waiting the newly upholstered sofas and then the installation of the passenger seat.

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[Seabyrd]

Wow !! Looking good !!

[michaeldterry]

Jon - that looks fantastic!

[merle&louise]

Nice job Jon - looks great!

There's nothing like the warmth of a wood floor.

I am going to be changing out the carpet in my bedroom soon, I may call you for some advice.

[Gary Carmichael]

It isa great job can't wait to see finished product

[AprilWhine]

Very nice, a target to shoot for...

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Very nice job Jon. I couldn't have done it any better............... hey wait, I meant to say I couldn't have done it at all.

I know Di, is tickled !

Gary S.

[Charles Spera]

Jon,
Nicely done, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.

[GDeen]

Nice work Jon - I got a quote from the guy down at Pipe Creek to re-do all our carpet with hardwood flooring. Probably my next upgrade priority.

[Sid Tuls]

Gordon,may I be bold and ask what the qoute was for your coach? I also would like to redo mine but just don't have those skills. If anybody knows somebody here on the west coast that does that kind of work could you post the info.? Thanks

[dreamchasers]

Gordon,

I second Sid's request. It seems that price points are indeed elusive for repaints and remodels.

Thanks,
Hector

[Ray Davis]

Sid, you might call Steve Bennett. I believe he has contacts here in CA that can do this type of work.

ray

[Woodscrapper]

Jon,

Nice work! Although I am a bit tardy in getting on the band wagon, give me a call if you need an extra hand or two as you finish up. I wonder if the lip at all the transitions will become a trip hazard?

Tom

[Jon Wehrenberg]

As I mentioned previously I am not happy with the transition, but for now until I can figure out how to get a tapered configuration and form it to the curvature I will stay with the industrial solution I have.

I need some scrap Corian Sahara material that I can play with to create the shape of the tapered transition and then I have to learn how to heat and shape it to the proper curvature. That Corian will match my windowsills and countertops, but a solid color compatible with the coach will also work.

[travelite]

John,

Beautiful work. I recently installed a Sapeli engineered wood floor in my Bird so I know of what you're going thru. I'm still finishing up furniture and trim installation (was de-railed with a CAC replacement). I went the corian route for the stairway bullnose and other areas. Had a professional come in to do it. (Ernie Ekberg: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/erniesremodelingandrepair/). Your work, as usual, is excellent. :)

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gvgLrX-Wxk0/TNVjDGAg_EI/AAAAAAAADUQ/zBbrljccqbk/s800/DSC_0239.JPG

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gvgLrX-Wxk0/TN6jQhq4VxI/AAAAAAAADYQ/N88Eqc0Bb4c/s800/DSC_0238.JPG

[Sid Tuls]

David where did you find your step place mats/ Are they the ones with the non slip back? I saw them on a Marathon and went to ask them how much they were and it was like $900.00 for a complete set ! I dang near fell over. They were really nice but not that nice.

[travelite]

David where did you find your step place mats/ Are they the ones with the non slip back? I saw them on a Marathon and went to ask them how much they were and it was like $900.00 for a complete set ! I dang near fell over. They were really nice but not that nice.

Sid,

It's made by a company named Amtico. It's a resilient vinyl flooring product. On my coach it's adhered with an adhesive and it's an inlay. Sorry Jon, don't mean to hijack your thread.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I'm happy to see ideas. The quality of your work is exceptional. Thanks for posting.

[GDeen]

Gordon,may I be bold and ask what the qoute was for your coach? I also would like to redo mine but just don't have those skills. If anybody knows somebody here on the west coast that does that kind of work could you post the info.? Thanks


Sid,

Right around $5k for all the demo, removal, wood install including steps, and re-install. 8 hrs more t $60/hr for 45 deg angle flooring.

[Sid Tuls]

Thanks Gordon for getting back to me.

[GDeen]

Let me know if you want more detail and I will get you the detailed quote. He does very nice work, and is willing to meet us at the wood supplier to help with selection. I had him quote some other modifications and all of them struck me as very reasonable. When you start at shop labor rates of around $60 for a group used to dealing with $100+.....many things start to seem more reasonable...