fresh water drain

[lloyd&pamela]

I hit the fresh water drain switch by accident and immediately turned it off. But water is still draining from one of the hoses. Shouldn't the solenoid close when it is turn back off?

Turned off the water pumps and the pressure reduced but it is still draining.

[JIM KELLER]

The fresh water drain also drains the water heaters. Could something from the tanks be stuck in the solenoid valve ?

[garyde]

Hi Lloyd. If the solonoid does not get exercised it may need to be tapped on to get it to close.

[lloyd&pamela]

Both hot water heaters are only a year old. We replaced them when we did the renovations. I will tap it in the morning. Since it is 20 years old, should I replace it? do they go bad?

I have only drained the tanks once before and had no need to stop it in the middle of draining.

The solenoids are suppose to stop draining when you turn them off, correct?

[dale farley]

LLoyd,

My fresh water drain was also leaking. It was just a very slow drip, but it wouldn't stop, so I ended up rebuilding the solenoid.

[lloyd&pamela]

The solenoid valve I have is a Goyen Controls 12BWJ2. Mine looks like the blue one in the middle of the photo but I can not find it online any where with the blue cover. But the current model looks like the black one pictured separately.

The cover and electrical component will not snap in place. Can I just replace the top electrical component without having to deal with the plumbing or should I replace the entire unit with the new model? Reason I ask is it is in a bad location and will require removing a lot of plumbing to fix if I have to remove the entire value.

When I turn on the water pump it flows. It does not leak after the pump is turned off. There was a cap with a clamp on the line but it leak a lot under pressure.

Photos:
1. Selection of Solenoids with the blue one that looks like the ones on my bus
2. Current Goyen 12BWJ2 model
3. Red cap from my Solenoid reads: MODEL 12BWJ2, PRESS 0-150 psi, WATTS 15, VOLTS & HZ 12 dc

683168326833

[lloyd&pamela]

Is there a way to force it closed until I can get it fixed so we can turn on the water pumps?

[dreamchasers]

Lloyd,

My Country Coach has three drain valves, two for the hot water heaters and one for the main tank. If the leaking valve is the one for the main water tank, it accessible by removing the sewer bay cover panel. Mine is bolted to the floor. On this valve, pinch off the hose going to the valve for a temp repair. I use small C clamps for this purpose ,with short metal pieces against the hose and use the C clamp to clamp the two metal pieces together to clamp the hose shut. You can buy hose clamp tools made specifically for this job. Mine operate like a pair of pliers.

The same process would apply for the two drain valves for the hot water heaters, but these valves are much more difficult to get to on mine. You have to remove drawers from a cabinet assembly and crawl inside the cabinet to get to the access hole for the valves.

Which valve is leaking? Is the leak near the sewer bay or near the hot water heaters?

Hector

[lloyd&pamela]

I have a pliers type hose clamp, all the old plumbing is the hard gray tubing with the clamps that can not be removed and require a special tool (I forgot the name of this ridiculous plumping system).

I believe it is the hot water drain all three of mine are in the plumbing bays behind the water pumps and faucet. I can remove the pumps and access it. The problem is I can not disconnect anything. CC thought you would never need to service the plumbing so they are permanent fixed piping with those crazy clamps. I have not wanted to take on the task of replumbing the entire system to remove the old tubing and clamps.

Therefore I really can not get stuff out of the way to work.

Is there are way to force the valve to close until it is repaired?

[truk4u]

Lloyd,

Assuming it's 1/2", go to the Depot and get a 1/2" plumbing cap and glue it on the drain tube under the bus with PVC plumbing glue. Then when you get it fixed, just cut it off.

6835

[lloyd&pamela]

It originally had a brass plug with a screw crimp clamp on the end of the drain hose. When the valve worked it did not leak. Now that the value is open. When the water pumps are on it is under enough pressure to still leak around the plug and clamp. I may try to add a second clamp, but there is not much hose exposed. Thanks. I assume there is not way to force the value closed manually.

[dale farley]

Lloyd, CC must have changed to the regular screw on stainless clamps later on; I 'm pretty sure that's what mine are. Your valve is the same as the one I repaired. You may want to remove the valve, and get a small plug from Home Depot, place in the end of the line and clamp it off until you get a new valve or repair kit. Sometimes a piece of trash gets in the valve and you can open it and clean it and it will work. My leak was so small, I could never stop it without replacing the diaphragm.

[dale farley]

Lloyd,

You may want to look at this thread from my valve experience last fall. Mike Clark assisted me in getting a repair kit for the valve. http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/showthread.php?4107-Leaking-Valve There are several pictures throughout the thread and several things I tried.

If all else fails, we've got this little company working locally that specializes in capping leaks. BP can probably get it capped off for you in "about" 90 days.

[lloyd&pamela]

Dale great photos. Thanks that is a big help. I talked to the Goyen service rep and he suggest I remove the four bolts and check the diaphragm. I will buy a replacement and he said I might need to replace the top only. He said the bottom has nothing to go bad. Thanks again.

[dreamchasers]

Lloyd,
I also have the gray poly piping, but I have "canaflex" tubing connected to the bottom of the supply tank (thus the pinch pliers). I purchased the fittings, metal rings and this very large crimping tool for the tube fittings. But you might consider only replacing the top works of the solenoid. If you can get exact replacements, disassemble the solenoid and replace the top works if the brass portion is OK. That will get you going again until you can find the tools for the crimping if needed.

Hector

[Prevost.Rick]

what happens is the sediment in the bottom of the fresh tank and the calcium from the water heater get lodged in the rubber gasket in the center of the valve u can take them apart and clean them but next time it will happen take a bolt that is long enought to have a smooth part by the head jam it up the hose sticking out of the bottom and put a hose clanp on it to seal it off,there is not enough flow to flush them out but some times you get lucky,when you have a chance put manuel valve in.rick

[Kenj]

I hit the fresh water drain switch by accident and immediately turned it off. But water is still draining from one of the hoses. Shouldn't the solenoid close when it is turn back off?

Turned off the water pumps and the pressure reduced but it is still draining.

I had the exact thing happen when I opened the valve to flush the tank. When I closed the valve it wouldn't positively seal. I found out that sediment in the bottom of the tank prevented the valve from fully closing. I flushed the tank with fresh water, with the valve open, and then cycled it open and closed several times. It worked fine after that.

[lloyd&pamela]

Replaced all the top components on the valve and it is working now. Thanks everyone.