Check Engine - Stop Engine Lights

[Richard Barnes]

After a 2300 mile trip from Atlanta to LA, my coach's check engine light came on about 5 miles from our destination. Within a mile of our destination the stop engine light came on. The engine seemed to be running fine at idle with no obvious problems (within my expertise - belts, leaks, coolant, oil, etc.). It did struggle to run when I tried to increase speed but at idle everything seemed fine. Any ideas before limping out to Mira Loma and Prevost? Thanks!

[lonesome george]

Richard, Did you see any information on the prodriver display? Mine will show codes that are active.
Any Detroit Diesel service center can check your ECM for recent codes, a good place to start.

[JIM KELLER]

Richard, Somewhere in this Forum is a post of " things that will shut you down " Low Coolant is the first thing that comes to my mind. I'm sure someone with more knowledge than me will be on here shortly to give you a hand.

[JIM KELLER]

Also the oil pressure sending unit on the head shut me down one time. Thought it was the unit on the bulkhead but turned out to be the one on the head. Are you on the side of the road or in an awkward location ? If so I will make a phone call for you.

[Richard Barnes]

Thanks Jim, no we are in our site in Long Beach, CA. It happened literally a half mile from our destination. Made it in but will have to get it straightened out before moving again. Thanks for the response!

[Coloradobus]

A loss of power could be plugged fuel filter. We had similar loss of power, having to nurse the throttle up hills and limped into Tucson several years ago. Plugged filters let coach run fine at idle and on fast idle, but try for more power up a hill, faltered and slow go,

[Kenneth Brewer]

You might also look at your Racor to see if you have water in the transparent fuel bowl. As George points out, check the engine code(s) on the ECM. Since the engine will idle, a fuel delivery problem at higher demand could be the indication of a water or filter or gel in the tank/lines problem. Keep us informed, whatever it was/is. Good luck.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Usually a restricted fuel flow will not light the check and stop engine lights.

Step one is get the codes. If you cannot get them from the ProDriver see if you can flash them. I don't remember the procedure, but maybe someone can let you know if it is not in your books.

Once you have the codes you at least know where to look. Coolant level will not cause a rough engine so I would rule that out. I assume as soon as the lights came on you scanned the dash and did not see anything out of the normal range such as coolant temp or oil pressure.

Until you have the codes any advice we all give is pure speculation and is likely to send you in many different directions.

[Richard Barnes]

No ProDriver on my coach. Instead of an Elegant Lady I have a Naked Lady. I'll look at the suggestions made so far and if nothing obvious I'll try to limp to A Detroit Diesel or Prevost location. Thanks for the responses. I'll let you know the results.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Richard, every bus has a way for you to flash the codes. When you do all you have to then do it count. It will be a beeping along with a light flashing. It will give you a 3 followed by a slight pause and then 4 for example (I made those numbers up) before starting the sequence again. If you don't know how to do this now is a good time to learn because when you are in the middle of the desert on the shoulder of the road 200 miles from anywhere it is a good thing to know.

Prevost might be able to walk you through it.

[mike kerley]

Richard, Prevost Action Service is 800 463 7738

Good luck.

[stevet903]

From the Detroit Book:

The CEL is illuminated and a code is stored if an electronic system fault occurs. This indicates the problem should be diagnosed as soon as possible. The ECM illuminates the CEL and SEL and stores a malfunction code if a potentially engine damaging fault is detected. These codes can be accessed in one of four ways:

Using the Diagnostic Data Reader (DDR)

Flashing the CEL and SEL with the Diagnostic Request Switch (may be combined with Stop Engine Override switch, see Figure 5-5)

Using the Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link™ (DDDL) PC software package
By ProDriver®, Electronic Fire Commander™, Electronic Display Module (EDM), or other display

There are two types of diagnostic codes:

An active code - a fault present at the time when checking for codes
An inactive code - a fault which has previously occurred; inactive codes are logged into the ECM and time stamped with the following information:
First occurrence of each diagnostic code in engine hours
Last occurrence of each diagnostic code in engine hours
Total time in seconds that the diagnostic code was active

Diagnostic Request Switch
The Diagnostic Request Switch is used to activate the CEL/SEL to flash codes. Active codes are flashed on the SEL and inactive codes are flashed on the CEL (see Figure 5-6). Inactive codes are flashed in numerical order, active codes are flashed in the order received, most recent to least
recent. The Diagnostic Request Switch can also be used as the Stop Engine Override (SEO) Switch. The codes are flashed out of the ECM connected to the switch.

The Diagnostic Request Switch is used to flash codes in the following circumstances:

The engine is not running and ignition is ON
The engine is idling

In both circumstances, activating and holding the Diagnostic Request Switch will flash out the diagnostic codes.

Diagnostic Request Switch/Stop Engine Override

If no separate Diagnostic Request Switch is configured, the SEO Switch serves as both a Diagnostic Request Switch and an SEO Switch.

The Diagnostic Request/Stop Engine Override Switch is used to flash codes in the following circumstances:

The engine is not running and ignition is on
The engine is idling

In both circumstances, activating and releasing the switch will flash out the diagnostic codes; activating and releasing the switch a second time will stop the ECM from flashing the diagnostic codes. Codes will also cease flashing if the engine is no longer at idle. The codes are flashed out of the ECM connected to the switch.


I have a list of codes - give me what flashes out and I will translate. Active Code 31 for example would flash on the stop engine light (red) 3 quick flashes, 1/2 second pause, 1 flash. If there are inactive codes, there would be a three second pause, then the inactive code would flash on the check engine light. In either case, there would be a 3 sec pause between codes and a half second pause between the first and second number. Hope this helps - Steve

[Richard Barnes]

Steve, thanks for the information. I'll read this carefully tonight and try to get the code. I'll let you know the result. Thanks for the info!

[Richard Barnes]

Thanks John, with your info and Steve's info, I'll try to get this done this evening. As always, thanks for your quick response!

[Jeff Bayley]

After a 2300 mile trip from Atlanta to LA, my coach's check engine light came on about 5 miles from our destination. Within a mile of our destination the stop engine light came on. The engine seemed to be running fine at idle with no obvious problems (within my expertise - belts, leaks, coolant, oil, etc.). It did struggle to run when I tried to increase speed but at idle everything seemed fine. Any ideas before limping out to Mira Loma and Prevost? Thanks!

From your original post above. I'm surprised no one mentioned the fact that the sensors can be set up (using Detroit Diesels laptop connected to the computer) to one of three things when they detect a failure. 1) Shut the engine down with no warning 2) Make the engine start fluttering to a stop. Sounds sort of like a jake brake. Still let's you run enough to get off the road. 3) Nothing. We should all check these when you can at Detroit because you never know how or if one of your settings could have gotten toggled to the "Nothing" option somehow along the way.

I think the coach will still idle if you have it on the #2 option and if you tried to accelerate it might start to flutter and loose power. I THINK what I wrote above is accurate. Corrections welcomed.

[gmcbuffalo]

Is it not possible to short pin A to Pin M and start the flashing sequence. I believe they are the right two pins one over the other? Or is this only a DECC II thing?
Greg

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Greg,

I don't know if the Series 60 (DDEC III and beyond) offers that as a method. That is what I used with my first bus. But how the codes are read by a specific bus is not as important as knowing how to read them because if you are broke down a long way from civilization getting the right kind of help will save some serious alternatives (like a tow job for a coolant sensor as an example).

[Orren Zook]

Maybe it's the throttle position sensor? or turbo issue? Any extra smoke from the exhaust? Even with my pure mechanical engine the codes were flashed on the shift panel when I had a major engine problem. Here's a link to the DDEC codes: http://library.motoralldata.com/techRef/WebHelp/Powertrain_Trouble_Code_Charts/Detroit_Diesel/Detroit_Diesel_Electronic_Controls_%28DDEC_III%29. htm

[truk4u]

Without a code reader, pro driver or switch for the purpose of blinking the codes, there may be no way to obtain the code. Anyone with a 97/98 have the Detroit book with instructions?

Maybe the red over-ride switch has a dual purpose, blink codes using the CEL as well as the temporary restoration of power on a shutdown for safety reasons (getting off the road).

Richard - I would send you my code reader, but it's not good beyond DDEC 2.

[Richard Barnes]

Again, thanks to all of you for the information. I flashed the codes per Steve's instructions and on the SEL I got a 46 code. If anyone has the meaning of that code I'd appreciate the interpretation. You guys are the best!

[Orren Zook]

Again, thanks to all of you for the information. I flashed the codes per Steve's instructions and on the SEL I got a 46 code. If anyone has the meaning of that code I'd appreciate the interpretation. You guys are the best!

Code 46 168/1 ECM Battery Voltage Low, 214/1 RTC Backup Battery Voltage Low (Release 29.0 Or Later), 232/1 Sensor Supply Voltage Low

All DDEC codes are available from the link I posted earlier. If you call up that link and click the 'show' button it will allow a search for specific information for DDEC II and DDEC III (plus lots of unrelated items).

[Richard Barnes]

Thanks Orren, I couldn't make the link work earlier but will try again. Thanks for the follow-up. I'll try the link again when I get to my office. Wi-fi in this park is spotty at best. I have no idea about voltage to the ecm so I guess a road service is in order.

[gmcbuffalo]

Is there a coin battery in these units somewhere?
Greg

[gmcbuffalo]

I got CEL check engine light

but SEL ?????? engine light?????
Greg

[stevet903]

Here's a link to the troubleshooting procedure for code 46.

http://www.tpub.com/content/trucktractor6x4/TM-9-2320-302-20/css/TM-9-2320-302-20_561.htm

It involves checking the voltage at the ECM with a voltmeter. The ECM runs on 12V, not 24V, so there is a tap between the chassis batteries to provide the 12V. Not sure on yours, but mine has a Vanner equalizer to keep both sets of batteries equally charged. Possible issues are a dirty/corroded ECM plug, bad or undercharged chassis battery, dirty/corroded battery cables or ECM connection to the battery or a defective Vanner (or whatever equalizer you have). Good luck !! Steve

[stevet903]

Stop engine light.

As for a coin battery, I know that the DDEC II does not have one (I've had the ECM open!!). I believe that later ones do not have one either - they are (supposed to be) continually connected to the battery. Later DDEC versions have a data storage capability, and they write the data at the when the engine is turned off. There was a service bulletin that dealt with data loss when the ECM was incorrectly wired and the ignition cut the battery supply to the ECM as the engine was turned off.... I make the assumption that this means that they have no battery backup inside the ECM.

[gmcbuffalo]

Thanks Steve

[Richard Barnes]

Stop Engine Light
RB

[phorner]

My bus has a couple of yellow wires that are connected directly to the chassis batteries (not through the disconnects) and it is my understanding that they supply uninterrupted power to the DDEC and possibly the transmission ECM.

IF this is their purpose, and IF you have the same wires, and IF yours are as corroded as mine were, then MAYBE this could be the cause of less than ideal voltage causing your error code.

Just a thought.... :confused:

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I know this has been discussed previously, but on Richard's vintage coach he is likely to have wires directly connected to the batteries dedicated to the DDEC. Also CB 19, 20 and 21 in the rear electrical box are for the DDEC.

FWIW the wire at the LH rear (going by memory so double check) has a ring terminal and if the batteries and those terminals are not maintained that wire terminal is subject to corrosion, so the batteries can be fully charged, but the corrosion and resistance from that can drop the voltage to the DDEC.

The first thing that came to mind when I saw the 46 code was to check the equalizer. If it has failed it is possible the 12 volt side of the chassis batteries may be low on voltage. Also check to make sure one of the above CBs has not tripped. Usually if they trip the bus just stops. No warning.

[Richard Barnes]

Jon,

I had new chassis batteries installed by Interstate last month and when I checked them this morning one of the batteries checked in with 7.2 volts and the remaining ones were all at 12.6 to 13.2. I hope a bad battery is all that it is. It appears that Steve and you were correct about a direct 12v connection from one battery to the ECM. I checked the connection for corrosion and there was none. The connection to the ECM was also clean and free of dirt. The 12v direct connection to the ECM was also the battery that showed the low voltage. Interstate's service centers are all closed this weekend but I'll change the battery out early next week and see if that corrects the problem. Thanks again for your help.

[stevet903]

Check your equalizer - it is supposed to keep the charge on the batteries equal. There are troubleshooting instructions in the manuals located here:

http://www.vanner.com/vp/manuals.htm

If the batteries are new, maybe the equalizer didn't get hooked up properly when the battery was replaced?

Steve

[Richard Barnes]

Steve, I checked the equalizer and Interstate had put the 12v lead on the wrong battery. I moved the lead to the weak battery and the load light on the equalizer came on immediately, the CEL and SEL lights went out and the engine started without problem. Now, do you prefer Jack Daniels, Wine or one of my wife's fruit cakes? (choose the alcohol!) Thanks to all for your advice!

[phorner]

Richard,

Glad to hear that you got it resolved. Good job!!

[Richard Barnes]

Richard,

Glad to hear that you got it resolved. Good job!!

Thanks Paul, what a great bunch of guys that are willing to share ideas and suggestions. Hope to see you in Kerrville in October!

[Jon Wehrenberg]

This is not the first time a POG member has had problems related to someone replacing batteries.

It will not be the last either. For those who like to repeat the problems others have experienced just turn your bus over to someone to change the batteries and leave them on their own with no advice or supervision. You may be OK, but the odds are this will happen again, maybe to you.

Our buses have a diagram of the cable arrangement for the chassis batteries on the RH rear door near the hinge. To prevent grief make certain the tech looks at the diagram, agrees to mark the cables before removal and to replace them exactly as shown on the diagram. Aside from pissing the tech off because he is being told what to do by a mere civilian, you will have his attention. Let him know that before you accept the bus and pay the bill you want to verify cable by cable that the installation is correct. I'm pretty sure he would not be changing batteries if he was a Rhodes Scholar.

As a general comment, Richard posted a problem, but had he mentioned in the first post that he had just recently had the batteries changed this thread would be about 2 posts long. I have found whenever something bad happens the first thing to think of is what has changed. If nothing has changed I do the normal trouble shooting, but if some service or work has recently been performed that is the starting point for trouble shooting.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

BTW, not picking on you Richard by mentioning you should have noted the battery change, just that the internet and this forum is a difficult place to diagnose problems. If we could have looked at the bus the new batteries would have been apparent and that would have raised flags. Making on line diagnosis even more difficult is the fact we lose all our senses. Things we could see or hear or feel all contribute significantly to our ability to diagnose problems.

I forgot to mention that for those folks who turn off the chassis switches the small switch for the 12V power can be left off accidently and the bus will run until the 12V side loses voltage creating the same problem.

[truk4u]

In addition to Jon's comments, the diagram on the RH rear door will only show the correct cable placement from Prevost and it is pretty straight forward. It will not show the equalizer or battery charger wire diagrams and where those wires attach. Maybe the newer models do show those items, not sure.

On Jamie's bus, whoever changed out the chassis batteries, had the negative cable going to the + Jump Start lug. Anyone attempting to jump to or from the bus would have had a really big surprise.

Be careful on battery service, most mechanics will get confused on 12 & 24parrell series arrangement, especially with the equalizers and lack of understanding.

Here's what I do in case you attempt it yourself:

Turn off the 12 & 24 volt cutoffs
Remove the ground wire to the equalizer(s)
Make a diagram of the wires and make tape labels for posts a,b,c,d, etc.
Remove one battery post at a time, wire tie, tape and mark position
Remove batteries
Clean tray and battery compartment
Install new batteries
Clean cables (replace any bad) one position at a time and attach to battery
Verify cable locations to the diagram and check 12 & 24 voltage
Re-install equalizer ground cable and check 12 & 24 posts for proper volts
Turn on 12 & 24 volt cutoffs
Spray posts with battery dressing
Charge with 3 stage charger

You may have your own process, but this works for those that don't. If you can do it yourself, you will have piece of mind that it's done properly and save a pile of money at the same time. You can replace all 4 maintenance free batteries for about 400.00.

[Richard Barnes]

Admonishments aside, I truly appreciate all of you who helped me out. I learned a great deal from this experience and that's why I'm thankful for this forum.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Richard I don't think you are being admonished as much as going through the same learning process we all have gone through.

This forum is intended to discuss anything under the sun relating to our coaches, including rallies, purchasing, updating, and problem solving. When we post a problem...(I am going to post one I am having) the best way to get a correct solution is to be the diagnostician's eyes, ears and fingers. You as the poster see and know the problem, nobody else has your perspective so you need to lay it all out, including things that may not seem important.

Most of the time we don't know what information is central to solving the problem so it behooves us to provide more information than necessary (except when talking about toilets).

[Larry W]

I have replaced both house and chassis batteries since owning our bus. First step for me was to take photos of everything then printing them 8X11. Then the drawings and labeling. Everything with good for me.

[Woody]

Jon

I hope you'll be at PSL as I have all the problems you all have discussed but a bit different.

With 4 new chassis batteries I had one go dead "zero volts" and would not take a charge with a yellow wire hooked up to what the diagram said was the headlights.

Replaced the bad battery and all is well but now the 24V charger doesn't want to work.

My best solution is to crank up the DD and charge batteries, just in case, every few days.

I am (was) an electrical engineer but my lack of wiring diagrams or decent color coding stops me cold.

Anyone that will be at the PSL mini rally that could take a look?

Tad (Woody)

[Jeff Bayley]

I'm posting this here instead of cluttering up the site with a new thread.

I have a check engine light coming on intermittently. It was just coming on for a few seconds at a time and then going off. I was thinking I could get to Phoenix Royal 200 miles away and they would have a reader but now I think I've I've decided I should not take any chances. The frequency has increased (a bad sign that I should not ignore) as I was driving around Detroit yesterday. I’m worried about driving 200 miles w/o trying to see what it is so I’m going to try flashing the codes (I don't have a reader) and see what I can come up with right now. I ordered the Silverleaf cable to work with a laptop. I have been meaning to get it for a while but I went ahead and ordered it Thursday specifically to capture this problem but I won't have it for several more days.

One of the problems is that I’m going to have to try and interpret the data for what Detroit terms an “Inactive code”.

Within this thread, part of the book is quoted as saying “An inactive code - a fault which has previously occurred; inactive codes are logged into the ECM. Inactive codes are flashed in numerical order, active codes are flashed in the order received, most recent to least recent.” So since the light is not staying on long enough in any instance for me to capture it as an “Active Code” in chronological order, I presume I’m going to have to look at all the “Inactive Code” activity and see which one has occurred multiple times. By now, maybe all the memory in the ECM for Inactive Codes has been bumped out and all the instances will be of my Inactive Code. It has flashed several dozen times but I don't know how many seconds it needs to stay on for the ECM to record anything. I’m starting the process of trying to decipher it now at 10:30am. I want to get out of Detroit and to Elkhart Indiana but not at the cost of hurting the engine. I’m posting this now to see if anyone has suggestions. I’ve only had to flash and get the codes once before and if you’re not practiced at it, it is a bit like trying to interpret Morse code. I'll try seeing if a Detroit dealer is open here and if so just drive over there since I'm the boonies. You'd think since I'm in Detroit I might find one eh ?

I found the PDF download for the DDEC. All 250 pages of it. But what I found is labeled (at least on some pages) as the manual for a DDEC IV. I have a DDEC II. I found the manual by just Goggling a phrase from the previous post in this same thread that quoted the book. It would be preferred to be looking at a manual for my DDEC II but maybe it's either not on line anymore or maybe it does not make a difference for what I'm after.

The IV manual came up on the search at this URL: http://www.ddcsn.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/ch5_ddeciv.pdf

If I go to the root of that site or http://www.ddcsn.com I don't readily see a download for a DDEC II. Maybe if someone has a PDF of the DDEC II manual they could email it to me at jeff@skincarepro.com I have to sort through this thread or the 250 page manual again to find the correct steps to flashing this manually. I remember it's not so so complicated and I think I rock the Override switch but I have to look it up again since I only did it once before.

[Jeff Bayley]

I found a Detroit service open until 3pm today just 5 miles from me. Instead of playing code breaker I'm driving over there. Good chance I'll need a part what ever it is anyway. Comments still welcomed but nobody need invest too much in the reply at this point unless it's for the greater good of us all. After only two instances of this I would say having a reader (either a Detroit reader or the Silverleaf) is a must have. I would be great to find a liquidation somehow on dozens of readers and get a good buy on them so POG'ers could have a chance to get a used one a decent buy. I think if you find one for $500 that's considered a good deal.

I'll update this later from Detroit service. By the way, I've already checked the obvious (fluid levels). But I had a post earlier on my battery balance light being on. I never got to the bottom of that. So hopefully Detroit can address that also. What ever that is it has not disabled me but it has gone unfixed. Maybe 2,000 miles later, the problem is getting worse and making the check engine light toggle on and off. After one blown engine I really should get the smelling salt and not ignore ANYTHING my engine is trying to tell me.

[Jeff Bayley]

All finished at Detroit. Actually it was a place authorized to work on Detroit but not an actual Detroit dealer. They hooked up the laptop. I have either a faulty engine temperature sending unit or I have something in the wiring throwing off a false reading. They didn't have the sensor but I'm fine to get to Elkhart and get to a Detroit dealer there Monday if they have one.

The mechanic sold me this state of the art engine analyzer. He said it's just as good as the computer they use. I'll hot wire it to my 6 pin plug later and see what else I can figure out.

[truk4u]

Jeff,

I also have DDEC II and have a reader, but I'm still unable to find the correct codes that match up with the reader and instruction booklet that came with it. I only have a few historic codes show up, but the code numbers don't match with the book. So, if you find a source for the codes, let me know.

The temp sensor for the series 60 was one the three sensors Jon suggested having in stock. I had all three but passed them on when I got the 8V. Here's the original post: http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/showthread.php?2710-Bus-Engine-Shutdown&highlight=sensor

[Jeff Bayley]

Tom- Thanks for the reply. On another related thread (maybe earlier in this one) I could have sworn there was a link to the codes. Did you check this 250 page manual I put the link to ? http://www.ddcsn.com/cps/rde/xbcr/ddcsn/ch5_ddeciv.pdf Winchester would have it I'm pretty sure if you email him.

Here I found it earlier in this thread by Oreen Zook. Is this not it ?

(excerpt)
Maybe it's the throttle position sensor? or turbo issue? Any extra smoke from the exhaust? Even with my pure mechanical engine the codes were flashed on the shift panel when I had a major engine problem. Here's a link to the DDEC codes: http://library.motoralldata.com/tech...DEC_III%29.htm

[rahangman]

Hey Truc ... you mention that you disposed of the "necy" relays with a Series 60 when you came back to the 8V....do you have a list for the 8V in mind?

[Jeff Bayley]

Tom/Truck- If it's 8V codes your looking for I found these two sites and threads that are diesel forums (some mechanics it seems) when I was searching for DDeck readers. They're talking about the codes and subjects. You might try posting at these forums. Might not be bad guys to get intel from on other drive train issues. These guys might be able to tell fill in the gaps for your questions (or any of us) that we can't get answered here.

http://www.dieselenginetrader.com/diesel_talk/messageview.cfm?catid=9&threadid=3664&STARTPAGE=1

http://www.truckingboards.com/bb/the-watering-hole-general-truck-drivers-forum/pro-link-vs-others/

Notice on the 2nd thread and the last post on that page I think the writer comments on getting boot leg software for a laptop that is what Detroit has. Not only a reader but let's you actually adjust things (Oh boy, just what I need to blow my engine up). I tried a few search terms to try and scare up some hacker or ex Detroit employee that might have it but if anyone else finds it first do tell.

If there any advantage to a DDEC reader over the Silverleaf product I have on the way ?

[truk4u]

Jeff,

I'll check out the sites. My DD reader allows you to make adjustments, clear codes, etc. The Silverleaf is read only.

[truk4u]

Roger,

Here's my post with the part numbers: http://forum.prevostownersgroup.com/showthread.php?3947-Series-60-Sensors-For-Sale

[stevet903]

Here's a link to DDEC II codes. They match with my DDEC II troubleshooting manual (you can find them on ebay for about $50, worth every penny if you are tracking down a problem), with these exceptions:

Code 53 missing - EEPROM failure Affecting code logging
Code 47/48 - Mislabled - should be 47 Fuel Pressure Sensor Signal Voltage High and 48 Fuel Pressure Sensor Signal Voltage Low

http://library.motoralldata.com/techRef/WebHelp/Powertrain_Trouble_Code_Charts/Detroit_Diesel/Detroit_Diesel_Electronic_Controls_%28DDEC_II%29.h tm

Truk - what kind of reader do you have?

Steve

[truk4u]

Steve, you da man!:cool: I checked a minor historic code I've been saving and it matches your list. I have the 9000 Pro-Link and the manual does not show the codes in your post and refers to SAE codes starting at 072 and nothing matches.

I'll add this list to the Archives so we always have it on file.

Thanks much....

[stevet903]

What card are you using in the Prolink? I have a manual for the DDEC II/III card that I could copy if you need it...

Seve