The bus made it home!

[Mark3101]

We got the bus Monday in Alvarado from Motor Home Specialist. Got there at noon as our flight was diverted due to weather Sunday night. Got the paperwork out of the way and did the walk through with the sale people. Spent about 3 hours or so with the service mgr. and then they ran us out to a covered pad to spend the night. Had an electrical glitch with all the storms around and had to reset an inverter, but everything else seemed fine.

Did some shopping and settled in for the night. Tuesday we went over some more systems with the service mgr. and we departed about 2PM to return our rental. My wife took the rental and I followed. Almost as soon as I hit 35W, the battery bal light came on and stayed on all the way to DFW rental return. I figured it was not a good sign, so I called Prevost in Ft. Worth and they were good enough to get me in right away and did a quick diagnostic and replaced what I think was the equalizer (not the small 4x8 monitor up high, but the one that is bigger mounted low directly in front of the batteries). No charge, no hassle and best part, in and out in less than an hour.

Got on the road and stayed in OKC at Twin Fountains. Nice place as most of you already know..<g>.

Hit the road Wed AM and headed toward Kansas City, MO stayed at Basswood Resort for the night. Headed out in the rain and drove in rain all the way home to Duluth. Got in about 9:30 last night.

Had a pocket door come off the track, a ceiling panel come down (removable for AC access, just velcroed on) a sticky black tank dump valve, and a front slide that squeaks like hell and gives an error when opening, but not closing. Other than that a very uneventful trip. The slide gives an over current error while opening, but is fine when closing....

Bus runs great, handles well and is quiet when the slide isn't squeaking!

Now, how does one get rid of squeaks from a front slide???? Can one spray silicone on the gaskets/seals??? I will call Prevost about the error next week when I have some free time.

[garyde]

Hi Mark. You should have Prevost inspect your slide. It sounds like it is not tracking correctly.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Congratulations Mark.

From your short experience you are seeing that your new bus is going to need some fine tuning. I don't know who will be standing behind the repairs on your new purchase, but you can either attack the issues all at once or you can let them accumulate over a long time preventing you from fully enjoying the coach.

With it at your home base this would be the perfect time to live in it for several days and work and operate every single system. You shouldn't have doors coming off track or ceilings falling so you can almost be assured there are going to be other things that need attention. Ditto for the chassis. By doing this you will learn the coach, learn how to operate the systems and features, and understand what you do not know so you can ask questions.

These are not simple machines and the nuances of living and traveling in one may not yet be fully realized. Even if you never intend to do any of your own maintenance or repairs, at the very least you do need to understand the coach and what the various switches and knobs do, and what the gauges are telling you. These are great fun and the ultimate toys, and will give you hours of enjoyment if you understand them and are on top of things.

[Mark3101]

Congratulations Mark.

From your short experience you are seeing that your new bus is going to need some fine tuning. I don't know who will be standing behind the repairs on your new purchase, but you can either attack the issues all at once or you can let them accumulate over a long time preventing you from fully enjoying the coach.

With it at your home base this would be the perfect time to live in it for several days and work and operate every single system. You shouldn't have doors coming off track or ceilings falling so you can almost be assured there are going to be other things that need attention. Ditto for the chassis. By doing this you will learn the coach, learn how to operate the systems and features, and understand what you do not know so you can ask questions.

These are not simple machines and the nuances of living and traveling in one may not yet be fully realized. Even if you never intend to do any of your own maintenance or repairs, at the very least you do need to understand the coach and what the various switches and knobs do, and what the gauges are telling you. These are great fun and the ultimate toys, and will give you hours of enjoyment if you understand them and are on top of things.

You are right, these are great machines! As to the list I posted, I have already fixed everything except the slide. Can you use silicone on the slide gaskets/seals without harming them? Also, I imagine that a trip to Prevost would be in order for the error that occurs when opening the front slide?

I am going to take it in for an oil change and have the transmission filter changed as well. The bus now has about 7700 miles on it and I just feel better getting that stuff out of the way. I will probably change the generator oil myself, but it only has 85 or so hours on it.

I am going to take some time this weekend and start reading the manuals I have not looked at. Have to give it a wash too....it got filthy on the way from KC.

We are very happy so far, I am hoping for a nice weekend or two in November before the snow arrives so we can use it a bit more and make sure there are no other issues we haven't yet found.

[garyde]

Hi Mark. To answer your question regarding slide lubricants. I just keep my sides and tops wiped clean. Thre are slide products on the market but you shoulld check with Prevost fist prior to using any of them.
There are two parts to your slide, the wiper and the air seal. The wiper keeps debris away from the air seal. The air seal can be pierced by just about anything. Its like a bicycle tire tube.

[Coloradobus]

Mark, Congrats and enjoy. Remember as new as your coach is, the transmission has Tran Synd synthetic fluid from the factory which doesn't need to be touched for a great while. Be sure to check your owners manual or call a Prevost Service center for piece of mind.
Otherwise, you will be spending beaucoup bucks ($40+ dollars gallon times 10)for a service you don't need at this time. the filter kit is about $120 and is internal, so chenging it will require buying an additional 3-4 gallons of fluid. Your filter interval is also extended with the newest technology. Check before you drain.

[Mark3101]

Hi Mark. To answer your question regarding slide lubricants. I just keep my sides and tops wiped clean. There are slide products on the market but you should check with Prevost fist prior to using any of them.
There are two parts to your slide, the wiper and the air seal. The wiper keeps debris away from the air seal. The air seal can be pierced by just about anything. Its like a bicycle tire tube.

The slide is completely spotless on top. No debris anywhere. I have what appears to be two problems: #1 the slide squeaks badly going down the road. and #2 I get an error about over current while opening the slide, but not when closing it.

I will be washing it next day or two and will really scrub the top and sides and see if that changes anything.

Thanks for the info.

[Mark3101]

Mark, Congrats and enjoy. Remember as new as your coach is, the transmission has Tran Synd synthetic fluid from the factory which doesn't need to be touched for a great while. Be sure to check your owners manual or call a Prevost Service center for piece of mind.
Otherwise, you will be spending beaucoup bucks ($40+ dollars gallon times 10)for a service you don't need at this time. the filter kit is about $120 and is internal, so changing it will require buying an additional 3-4 gallons of fluid. Your filter interval is also extended with the newest technology. Check before you drain.

I will check the manual, but I thought I read that they want it (filter) changed at about 5000 miles the first time. Maybe I am wrong about that with Tran Synd.....If I don't need it, I won't do it.

Since the chassis was built in late 2005 I guess it should have at least the engine oil changed. Oil is still cheaper than engines!

I sure do like the transmission/engine combination so far. Runs good, shifts smoothly and seems to have enough power for me.

[Mark3101]

Hi Mark. You should have Prevost inspect your slide. It sounds like it is not tracking correctly.

I will make a call to Prevost and ask some questions. I am confused as to why it only get an error while opening and not closing.

[garyde]

I will make a call to Prevost and ask some questions. I am confused as to why it only get an error while opening and not closing.

The sequence for opening is as follows: When you push the button to open:
1. The air seal begins to deflate
2.once deflated, the pins retract from the slide
3. the slide motor begins to move the slide out
4 once out, the slide seal inflates

This sequence is reversed when closing

So, if your error light begins at the beginning of this process , it is an air issue, possibly not enough air pressure in the system to begin the sequence.
If you get an error light later in the sequence, it might indicate too much current draw on the motor which indicates the motor is working too hard.

[Mark3101]

The sequence for opening is as follows: When you push the button to open:
1. The air seal begins to deflate
2.once deflated, the pins retract from the slide
3. the slide motor begins to move the slide out
4 once out, the slide seal inflates

This sequence is reversed when closing

So, if your error light begins at the beginning of this process , it is an air issue, possibly not enough air pressure in the system to begin the sequence.
If you get an error light later in the sequence, it might indicate too much current draw on the motor which indicates the motor is working too hard.

I think it is the latter...the motor is working too hard for some reason. The light does not blink until the very end of travel outward. The error I get is that there is over current while in operation. I am suspecting something is not adjusted right and at the end, it gets too hard to finish without really working the motor.

On closing I do not get the error and the motor does not sound like it is working as hard.

I guess I will have to get it looked at. I also have a very annoying squeak coming from that front slide. It is like fingers on a chalk board...<g>.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Generally speaking (not specific to slides) any time moving parts are making a noise like you describe something bad is going on. Continuing to use the device making the noise usually leads to even bigger problems.

If I had a slide coach and it was making sounds that indicated something was wrong, I would move it slowly and steadily by hand (I assume these can be hand cranked) until I sensed or felt the interference that was causing the noise. At that point I would start looking for the reason. I assume the mechanism for the slides is a rack and gear(?) and that somewhere in the travel something in the mechanism is binding.

If the sound was coming from interference between the chassis and the slide there would be scraped paint.

[Coloradobus]

The sequence for opening is as follows: When you push the button to open:
1. The air seal begins to deflate
2.once deflated, the pins retract from the slide
3. the slide motor begins to move the slide out
4 once out, the slide seal inflates

Mark, there is one other automatic function that occurs when the "air seal begins to deflate" and that is the tag axle exhausts and drops the rear of the coach to take the "CHARGE" off of the chassis. The normal stance of the entire chassis is to drape over the steer and drive axles. The TAG AXLE actually pushes and tries to take the restful arch out of the shell.
If you don't hear the hiss of air loss and the rear of the coach doesn't sink when you begin the sequence to run the front slide out, manually dump the tag axle before you run the room out and see if you still have error codes.
If error coder don't show up, then there maybe a programming glitch that isn't including DUMPING TAG.
Just a thought from remembering our previous slideroom coach issues.

[Mark3101]

Generally speaking (not specific to slides) any time moving parts are making a noise like you describe something bad is going on. Continuing to use the device making the noise usually leads to even bigger problems.

If I had a slide coach and it was making sounds that indicated something was wrong, I would move it slowly and steadily by hand (I assume these can be hand cranked) until I sensed or felt the interference that was causing the noise. At that point I would start looking for the reason. I assume the mechanism for the slides is a rack and gear(?) and that somewhere in the travel something in the mechanism is binding.

If the sound was coming from interference between the chassis and the slide there would be scraped paint.

I should have been more clear on the squeak...it is while driving down the road, not while operating it. Sorry.....

[Mark3101]

The sequence for opening is as follows: When you push the button to open:
1. The air seal begins to deflate
2.once deflated, the pins retract from the slide
3. the slide motor begins to move the slide out
4 once out, the slide seal inflates

Mark, there is one other automatic function that occurs when the "air seal begins to deflate" and that is the tag axle exhausts and drops the rear of the coach to take the "CHARGE" off of the chassis. The normal stance of the entire chassis is to drape over the steer and drive axles. The TAG AXLE actually pushes and tries to take the restful arch out of the shell.
If you don't hear the hiss of air loss and the rear of the coach doesn't sink when you begin the sequence to run the front slide out, manually dump the tag axle before you run the room out and see if you still have error codes.
If error coder don't show up, then there maybe a programming glitch that isn't including DUMPING TAG.
Just a thought from remembering our previous slideroom coach issues.

Thanks. I do NOT think the tag is dumping air. I will try it tomorrow and see what I can figure out on that. I am almost sure that I only hear a slight hiss from the air seal, and nothing more. I don't remember the rear sinking either.

I will let you know when I find out.

Thanks again for the ideas.....

[Mark3101]

The sequence for opening is as follows: When you push the button to open:
1. The air seal begins to deflate
2.once deflated, the pins retract from the slide
3. the slide motor begins to move the slide out
4 once out, the slide seal inflates

Mark, there is one other automatic function that occurs when the "air seal begins to deflate" and that is the tag axle exhausts and drops the rear of the coach to take the "CHARGE" off of the chassis. The normal stance of the entire chassis is to drape over the steer and drive axles. The TAG AXLE actually pushes and tries to take the restful arch out of the shell.
If you don't hear the hiss of air loss and the rear of the coach doesn't sink when you begin the sequence to run the front slide out, manually dump the tag axle before you run the room out and see if you still have error codes.
If error coder don't show up, then there maybe a programming glitch that isn't including DUMPING TAG.
Just a thought from remembering our previous slideroom coach issues.

Should the tag dump for the rear slide as well? Just wondering if I should ckeck that one too...

Thanks.

[rfoster]

Negative on the tag dump for the rear slide

[Loc]

Mark,

I had an issue with a rattle in my front slide. It had nothing to do with the slide mechanism, but the trim that the converter put around the slide. It was a very simple fix (double stick tape) once I found where the rattle was. It took me a little time to locate the rattle because it was intermittant. I had to get someone else to drive the bus while I listened to find the rattle. I could even tell that there had been some type of double stick tape or felt pad in the location before (which is why it didn't rattle when I first got the bus). In your case it could be the slide mechanism, but it just as likely be the trim.

Good luck!

[Mark3101]

Mark,

I had an issue with a rattle in my front slide. It had nothing to do with the slide mechanism, but the trim that the converter put around the slide. It was a very simple fix (double stick tape) once I found where the rattle was. It took me a little time to locate the rattle because it was intermittant. I had to get someone else to drive the bus while I listened to find the rattle. I could even tell that there had been some type of double stick tape or felt pad in the location before (which is why it didn't rattle when I first got the bus). In your case it could be the slide mechanism, but it just as likely be the trim.

Good luck!

I will check on that as well. It is a very loud squeak that sounds llike ruber on metal. I have looked at the trim and it doesn't seem to be rubbing anywhere, but I will continue to look around.

Thanks for the tip!

[Coloradobus]

Mark3101,

Following the tag deflation idea, does your tag deflate when you are ready to run the salon slide Inward. The tag should deflate with the room going in either direction. Have you tested slide operation after you have manually dumped tag air.?????
Also, are you leaving the driver's toll window or entry door open when the slide room is in motion? The slide seals (even after air is exhausted in the seal) are so tight that to aid slide movement, you need to have something open for changing air pressure in the cabin.
Just a thought.

[Mark3101]

Mark3101,

Following the tag deflation idea, does your tag deflate when you are ready to run the salon slide Inward. The tag should deflate with the room going in either direction. Have you tested slide operation after you have manually dumped tag air.?????
Also, are you leaving the driver's toll window or entry door open when the slide room is in motion? The slide seals (even after air is exhausted in the seal) are so tight that to aid slide movement, you need to have something open for changing air pressure in the cabin.
Just a thought.

I will have to check on inward moves and the tag as well. I have not noticed it. I will have to remember to open the window. I sometimes do have the door open, but not always.

I will try to check all these items out yet today. It has been busy at work and I haven't gotten to it yet.

[Coloradobus]

Mark3101, Also remember, don't level the coach until you have put out the slides. Leveling can cause binding of the mechanism. This is totally opposite of what is instructed with other Class A Plastic Coaches.

[Mark3101]

Mark3101, Also remember, don't level the coach until you have put out the slides. Leveling can cause binding of the mechanism. This is totally opposite of what is instructed with other Class A Plastic Coaches.

I have always done the leveling last, so that should not be the issue. Thanks for the heads up!

[Kenj]

We got the bus Monday in Alvarado from Motor Home Specialist. Got there at noon as our flight was diverted due to weather Sunday night. Got the paperwork out of the way and did the walk through with the sale people. Spent about 3 hours or so with the service mgr. and then they ran us out to a covered pad to spend the night. Had an electrical glitch with all the storms around and had to reset an inverter, but everything else seemed fine.

Did some shopping and settled in for the night. Tuesday we went over some more systems with the service mgr. and we departed about 2PM to return our rental. My wife took the rental and I followed. Almost as soon as I hit 35W, the battery bal light came on and stayed on all the way to DFW rental return. I figured it was not a good sign, so I called Prevost in Ft. Worth and they were good enough to get me in right away and did a quick diagnostic and replaced what I think was the equalizer (not the small 4x8 monitor up high, but the one that is bigger mounted low directly in front of the batteries). No charge, no hassle and best part, in and out in less than an hour.

Got on the road and stayed in OKC at Twin Fountains. Nice place as most of you already know...

Hit the road Wed AM and headed toward Kansas City, MO stayed at Basswood Resort for the night. Headed out in the rain and drove in rain all the way home to Duluth. Got in about 9:30 last night.

Had a pocket door come off the track, a ceiling panel come down (removable for AC access, just velcroed on) a sticky black tank dump valve, and a front slide that squeaks like hell and gives an error when opening, but not closing. Other than that a very uneventful trip. The slide gives an over current error while opening, but is fine when closing....

Bus runs great, handles well and is quiet when the slide isn't squeaking!

Now, how does one get rid of squeaks from a front slide???? Can one spray silicone on the gaskets/seals??? I will call Prevost about the error next week when I have some free time.

Mark,
I think I have the answer to your squeak problem. I have the same year bus as you and experienced the exact same problem this weekend. I bought my bus in June and since then have put about 10,000 miles on it. I never heard a squeak from the slide until this weekend. The problem is extensive rain.

I left Louisiana Friday night around 7pm for Talladega and traveled in rain all the way. About two hours out I began to hear an occasional squeak from the front slide. After another hour both front and rear slides were squeaking with every bump and twist. I stopped at a truck stop and ran the slide out and in to inspect and found nothing wrong with the gasket. The slides continued to squeak the remainder of the trip. The sound was similar to rubbing a squeegee against a window.

On the way home we had clear weather. I never heard a squeak again on the 500 mile trip. I suspect that while traveling in heavy rain, water gradually seeps through the gaskets through torques and twists on the bus frame. Once waters passes through it causes the gasket to rub and squeak against the metal skin. I bet you won't hear it again the next time you drive your bus in clear weather.

[Mark3101]

Mark,
I think I have the answer to your squeak problem. I have the same year bus as you and experienced the exact same problem this weekend. I bought my bus in June and since then have put about 10,000 miles on it. I never heard a squeak from the slide until this weekend. The problem is extensive rain.

I left Louisiana Friday night around 7pm for Talladega and traveled in rain all the way. About two hours out I began to hear an occasional squeak from the front slide. After another hour both front and rear slides were squeaking with every bump and twist. I stopped at a truck stop and ran the slide out and in to inspect and found nothing wrong with the gasket. The slides continued to squeak the remainder of the trip. The sound was similar to rubbing a squeegee against a window.

On the way home we had clear weather. I never heard a squeak again on the 500 mile trip. I suspect that while traveling in heavy rain, water gradually seeps through the gaskets through torques and twists on the bus frame. Once waters passes through it causes the gasket to rub and squeak against the metal skin. I bet you won't hear it again the next time you drive your bus in clear weather.

I hope it is that simple. I will check it out as I have time. Thanks for the idea.

[Coloradobus]

If it is as simple as that, how about waxing the slide ends to make them slip better against the slide room. Just a thought. It s been 5 years since we had a slide coach, so we are brainstorming retrospectively on all of our slide issues.:D

[travelite]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Prevost Car exlpained to me that the early slide equipped XL2's, up to 2005 and maybe some early 2005 units, have slides that are structural components of the chassis. These slides are the ones with the 3 locking pins on the sides. When the slide is closed the locking pins provide continuity of the internal chassis space frame. This is the reason that Prevost Car recommends against moving the coach when the slide is extended.

In 2005, Prevost went to a single pin at the bottom of the slide plus elliptical bracing in the basement. This style of slide is simply along for the ride. The weakness created by cutting a hole in the side of the bus is countered by the additional bracing in the basement.

According to Prevost Car, the structural slide may squeak as the chassis flexes. The flex causes movement of the locking pins relative to the slide body. Some sort of lube, graphite, on the pins is a suggestion that I've heard from others on this forum.

Does this fit with your understanding of the slide technology?

David Brady
'02 Wanderlodge LXi,
Asheville, NC

[jack14r]

The single pin slide came out in 07,which would normally be a 2008 conversion by most converters.

[Mark3101]

I will have to check on inward moves and the tag as well. I have not noticed it. I will have to remember to open the window. I sometimes do have the door open, but not always.

I will try to check all these items out yet today. It has been busy at work and I haven't gotten to it yet.
I found out that the tag DOES NOT dump when activating the forward slide either IN OR OUT. I did dump it manually to see if I could get rid of the error when opening it, but it did not make any difference. When opening, I get an over current error. When closing, no error.

I have not had time to take the coach out for a ride to see if the squeaking has gone away after it had had a chance to dry out. I will have to try that next week.

[Coloradobus]

Mark3101,

I guess this is good and bad news. Have you tried to power down the chassis batteries, and or, read in the owner's manual of a reset on the slide power unit that could clear codes. Do you hear all four pins release? I am just fishing here, since our slide experience is from an aftermarket HWH system in a 1999 XL shell, and '01 Prevost installed slide in a 2002 Marathon XLII. In the Marathon we learn months after purchase, the tag deflated. On the CC 1999 XL. we did it manually.:(
Soooo,, I guess you will be calling Prevost. Sorry I couldn't come up with better solutions.

[parksincpp]

Mark

Call me at the Mira Loma Branch 800-421-9958. The phones don't get answered until 8am west coast time. I'll be avalible until 3.

I work for Prevost and I will be more than happy to help you or get you to someone who can.

Scott Parks

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Mark it looks like Scott with Prevost is jumping in here to help you which will be great.

On my 01 American with Prevost slides, it was mandatory and automatic for the rear tag to release air, than the slide seal would release its air, and shortly there after the slide pins would release and the slide would go out.

Now I know for sure Prevost has made some major improvements in the slide mechanisms over the last 8 years, so maybe yours 08' operates differently than mine so I would just wait till Scott can send you to the correct slide person for your information. When you hear it from the horses mouth, your answer should be correct. I.M.O. anyway.

And believe me, I have gone through my share of slide issues over the last 9 months, BUT the GOOD news is, I believe all of those issues have been resolved, thanks to the hard work of Prevost Ft. Worth, and Quebec and all of the techs that got involved.

I am a Very Happy Camper w/ Slide. :)

Gary S.

[Mark3101]

Mark

Call me at the Mira Loma Branch 800-421-9958. The phones don't get answered until 8am west coast time. I'll be avalible until 3.

I work for Prevost and I will be more than happy to help you or get you to someone who can.

Scott Parks

Thanks, I will call you ASAP, but it may be next week before I can. I am leaving today for a short business trip, and should be back late Monday.

[parksincpp]

Wow 3:22 am. You must be busy!!

[Mark3101]

Mark

Call me at the Mira Loma Branch 800-421-9958. The phones don't get answered until 8am west coast time. I'll be available until 3.

I work for Prevost and I will be more than happy to help you or get you to someone who can.

Scott Parks

I called today, but you were busy working on a coach. Here are the errors I get while opening the forward slide:

SLD0 MOT SPEED A CTR
CURRENT ABOVE NORMAL

SLD0 MOT SPEED B CTR
CURRENT ABOVE NORMAL

The codes clear when you shut the ignition off. The error is only on open, never on close. The forward slide is a little noisier than the rear one, but not very much. It does seem to work harder at the very end of travel.

I have not had time to take it out on the road to see if the squeak is gone after it dried up, but I will try to do that tomorrow if I get time.

If I find out any more info I will post it. Thanks!

[parksincpp]

I called today, but you were busy working on a coach. Here are the errors I get while opening the forward slide:

SLD0 MOT SPEED A CTR
CURRENT ABOVE NORMAL

SLD0 MOT SPEED B CTR
CURRENT ABOVE NORMAL

The codes clear when you shut the ignition off. The error is only on open, never on close. The forward slide is a little noisier than the rear one, but not very much. It does seem to work harder at the very end of travel.

I have not had time to take it out on the road to see if the squeak is gone after it dried up, but I will try to do that tomorrow if I get time.

If I find out any more info I will post it. Thanks!

Sorry about that. Sometimes with all of the noise I don't hear the pages. I sent you a PM.

[Mark3101]

Sorry about that. Sometimes with all of the noise I don't hear the pages. I sent you a PM.

Well, thanks to Scott, I found out that the error code problem with the slide is just an adjustment and will not harm anything until I can get it taken care of.

Thanks to Scott and everyone else who jumped in with any suggestions.

Now I just have to look and find out about that squeak....maybe later today if time permits.

[Mark3101]

Well, my squeak is gone! It seems that maybe it is water/rain related after all. Everything was nice and dry today and we took it for a 50 mile ride and NO SQUEAK!!! I suppose I should wet it down and try it again to be absolutely sure, but it would appear that water was the cause.

I also found out that if i stop the slide just before it would normally stop when opening, it does not trip the error code. Scott had asked me to try that and it did work.

It seems that most of my gripes have now been either fixed or at least I know what is going on, and they will be fixed next time I get to Prevost. We really are liking this coach and have started to think about all of the places we want to go.

[Sid Tuls]

Hey Mark, glad to hear that things are working better for you. I also get frustrated when things don't work just right. The good thing is that you learn more about your bus a little at a time. Have fun planning!!

[Mark3101]

Hey Mark, glad to hear that things are working better for you. I also get frustrated when things don't work just right. The good thing is that you learn more about your bus a little at a time. Have fun planning!!

It is frustrating, but I kind of expected some of it. You can't have something like this coach sit for a couple of years and not find something wrong with it. Best part is that most of it is minor and will be covered under warranty. I have already learned a lot and there is much more to go!

We will have a good time doing the planning...already have some destinations in mind and just have to schedule it.

Take care....

[parksincpp]

Well, my squeak is gone! It seems that maybe it is water/rain related after all. Everything was nice and dry today and we took it for a 50 mile ride and NO SQUEAK!!! I suppose I should wet it down and try it again to be absolutely sure, but it would appear that water was the cause.

I also found out that if i stop the slide just before it would normally stop when opening, it does not trip the error code. Scott had asked me to try that and it did work.

It seems that most of my gripes have now been either fixed or at least I know what is going on, and they will be fixed next time I get to Prevost. We really are liking this coach and have started to think about all of the places we want to go.

Glad to hear your squeak is gone and your not triping the error code.

[Kenj]

Well, my squeak is gone! It seems that maybe it is water/rain related after all. Everything was nice and dry today and we took it for a 50 mile ride and NO SQUEAK!!! I suppose I should wet it down and try it again to be absolutely sure, but it would appear that water was the cause.

I also found out that if i stop the slide just before it would normally stop when opening, it does not trip the error code. Scott had asked me to try that and it did work.

It seems that most of my gripes have now been either fixed or at least I know what is going on, and they will be fixed next time I get to Prevost. We really are liking this coach and have started to think about all of the places we want to go.

Mark,
I thought you squeak would be gone the next time you drove it in dry weather. As I said in my previous post, we have the exact same model year bus and the same happened to me. Glad you don't have a problem.

[Mark3101]

Mark,
I thought you squeak would be gone the next time you drove it in dry weather. As I said in my previous post, we have the exact same model year bus and the same happened to me. Glad you don't have a problem.

Yep, you were right on the money. I would dearly like to know why water would make it squeak like it did. I wonder if using the awnings over the slides when it rains would make a difference? I did not have them out since it was dark when we parked and I was more worried about wind than rain.

As time permits, I will likely play more with this to see if I can find a solution, or to see if it even comes back again.

Thanks again for your earlier suggestion.

[rfoster]

My 03 CC Double Slide has a regulator in the 2nd bay drivers side behind a false ceiling that controls the air pressure level of the air bladder for the slides. Somehow mine gets out of whack and the air pressure does not stay were I put it.

You might want to check yours and see what level of pressure you are running. Mine states no more than 10 lbs. max.

Today I ordered a new one from Prevost and I get dancing girls and a steak dinner with it. No just kidding but I feel like I should get something besides a low pressure air regulator.--149 Lew Bucks. Local supply Company all kinds for 11 bucks except the low pressure one that I need.

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Mark as a general rule, you are suppose to use the awnings over the slides when the slides are out. They will keep water, leaves and things falling from the sky, from getting on top of your slides and gumming up the works when you pull the slides in.

The awnings should retract if the wind picks up too much, or if you know you have a storm coming, retract the awnings ahead of time. The slide awnings don't hang out in the breeze too far any way so you shouldn't have a problem with them.

Gary S.

[Mark3101]

My 03 CC Double Slide has a regulator in the 2nd bay drivers side behind a false ceiling that controls the air pressure level of the air bladder for the slides. Somehow mine gets out of whack and the air pressure does not stay were I put it.

You might want to check yours and see what level of pressure you are running. Mine states no more than 10 lbs. max.

Today I ordered a new one from Prevost and I get dancing girls and a steak dinner with it. No just kidding but I feel like I should get something besides a low pressure air regulator.--149 Lew Bucks. Local supply Company all kinds for 11 bucks except the low pressure one that I need.

I will check to see if mine is in the same spot as yours. Thanks for the heads up.

[Mark3101]

Mark as a general rule, you are suppose to use the awnings over the slides when the slides are out. They will keep water, leaves and things falling from the sky, from getting on top of your slides and gumming up the works when you pull the slides in.

The awnings should retract if the wind picks up too much, or if you know you have a storm coming, retract the awnings ahead of time. The slide awnings don't hang out in the breeze too far any way so you shouldn't have a problem with them.

Gary S.

I was wondering about that, but the dealer did not mention it. In fact he said not to use them if it was raining/stormy out because the wind could damage them. I see that I have a couple of wind speed spinners on the roof...I assume for the awnings to auto retract, right??

Thanks...

[garyde]

On my slides the awnings are attached to the slides so they roll out with the slides. There have been issues with the top of the slides buckling and having to be replaced because of the heat of the sun. If your awnings are the gerard or zip dee on the top of the bus, remember that they are 120 volt on a GFI circuit and they willll not retract in the wind if you are without power or if the GFI has tripped.

[Mark3101]

On my slides the awnings are attached to the slides so they roll out with the slides. There have been issues with the top of the slides buckling and having to be replaced because of the heat of the sun. If your awnings are the gerard or zip dee on the top of the bus, remember that they are 120 volt on a GFI circuit and they willll not retract in the wind if you are without power or if the GFI has tripped.

Thanks! I thought they were 120vac, but did not know about the GFI. I will check the breaker box and see where and how they are connected.

I know that the Crestron system controls them as well as a remote and a manual switch in a closet.

How much wind is too much?

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

How much wind is too much?


Mark, I am not sure there is a good answer for that?

Just check to be sure your wind sensors do pull the awnings in when the wind is present. If the wind sensors don't do their job for some reason, it will just be up to you to watch the weather closer.

I don't worry so much about my awnings over the slide being out because they are smaller and less likely to do / cause much damage if the wind kicks up. But the passengers side larger awning, I never leave out when we are not home, or when we go to bed. Just a habit to put it in, so not surprised during the night.

Gary S.

[Kenj]

Yep, you were right on the money. I would dearly like to know why water would make it squeak like it did. I wonder if using the awnings over the slides when it rains would make a difference? I did not have them out since it was dark when we parked and I was more worried about wind than rain.

As time permits, I will likely play more with this to see if I can find a solution, or to see if it even comes back again.

Thanks again for your earlier suggestion.

Mark,
Using the awnings will not make a difference. Coincidentally we both experienced the same problem, the same week with the same year/model bus. As I recall you we driving north in heavy rain in the same front that I caught driving west to east.

The reason I say the awnings won't make a difference is that my bus is kept in a warehouse at my office. It had been there a month before I left for Talladega. Obviously it was dry. After 2 hours of driving in a heavy downpour both slides started to squeak, occasionally at first, and then with every bump in the road.

It is my opinion water entered little by little through the gasket with the torques and twists on the frame. The wet gaskets rubbed against the clean metal making sounds like a squeegee on glass. Now we have to find out from Prevost if that is common and if not what do we need to do to remedy the problem.