Replaced Chassis Batteries

[grantracy]

I replaced the 4 batteries and when we went to fire the bus up ...nothing. called a tech who said we had to reprogram keyless entry( I assume he is referring to the alarm) I have never used it and don't even know the code. DDEC is also inop. Any ideas?

[phorner]

This sounds like it may require some head scratchin'....

I've had all my chassis batteries disconnected without an issue, but apparently yours is set up differently.

I have seen some busses with the master code for the keyless entry noted on the inside of the drivers side electric panel door. It's worth a look and hopefully will get you going.

Good luck.....

[dalej]

Granvil,

I almost hate to ask....but have you checked for 24 volts at the disconnect?

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Granville, you should have a louvered Air vent on the right hand side of the steps as you come in, in the dash panel.

Take a flashlight and look inside the vents and you should see the Original Door lock code on one of the panels inside the vent.

I forget the exact sequence to reprogram your number in, but if you don't have it or can't find it, I have it at the bus and can get it for you later this week.

Reprogramming is something to the effect: Turn the Ignition Key On, Press in the Master Code, then within 30 seconds press your own 5 digit code into the door. If all works well, it should lock the bus, and Bay Doors.

Have someone inside the bus during this locking procedure!

Gary S.

[grantracy]

We have 24 volts,in fact the engine turns over using the remote start in the rear. I will check for the code, however mine is a key fob that has 4 digits so I am not sure it is truly a keyless entry but an alarm system.( the tech was suggesting that was the problem) It seems that we just don't have power to the ignition or DDEC readout.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Granvil, if I turn off my battery master switch and then turn it back on there is a small red led close to the entry door that flashes. I have been advised that my bus has an disabeling alarm and that that light tells that it is working to protect the bus from theft.

To cancel the alarm press buttons on the key fob until the red light goes out.

Since you have tried to perform various things to get going, I would start from scratch and turn your master switch off and then back on and then look for the red light.

I don't know if this is what you have, but it is worth the try.

I have a viper alarm and key fob.

JIM

[grantracy]

ok, will give that a try. I have the same LED, I presume by master switch you are referring to the disconnect in the rear?

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Yes that disconnect is a better word.

Good luck and hope it was that simple.

Flying to Tampa this AM so over and out

JIM

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Gran,

Check to verify you have the batteries wired correctly. If the 12 volt is faulty due to miswiring the DDEC will not function.

Ditto for the door lock. It is a 12V device.

Also check for 12 volts at circuit breakers 19, 20 and 21 and make sure they are not tripped They control DDEC. They are wired directly to the batteries so look for a smaller wire at the batteries an insure it is properly connected.

[0533]

Ditto what Jon said, the DDEC wires are smaller sometimes yellow wires stranded lighter gauge, they must be connected to the battery terminals at 2 locations Neg/Pos.

The Fob should have a 1 and 2 on it. Just click the 1 until you hear the door lock or unlock.

make sure you cycle both the 12 and 24 volts chassis shutoffs.

God luck.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Gran,

The reason the rear start button will spin the engine is because it is going through a relay to engage the starter solenoid. If it does not fire I strongly sense you are not getting power to the DDEC.

[grantracy]

will try all these suggestions, I wasn't clear ; engine does fire and run just not from the ignition and nothing on the display.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

OK, check the selector switch. Make sure you have continuity through it when it is in the front start position.

Misunderstood. Dan S had that problem.

[Will Garner]

Granville,

I don't have all the bells and whistles you have, however I also went through the won't start from the ignition switch. That was after starting it from the rear start switch and returning the switch to the normal position. Called Joe C and got advice to flip the switch from normal to rear start back and forth several times. Left it in normal, went to the front ignition and bam it started right up. I don't know if this will work in your case but it sure was cheap to try - and it worked for me. Joe explained that the contacts get grungy in the adverse engine bay environment.

So try "jiggling" the switch - it might work for you too.

[gmcbuffalo]

Will
I just went thru this this last weekend and did the same thing with the switches, and it worked.
GregM

[grantracy]

Ok,thanks. Will check switch for continuity, it is a little maddening because all was fine until the batteries needed replacing. In fact it wasn't until we completely pulled power from the system that we encountered the problem. Will report back.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

If you have had to wiggle the rear selector switch and it got the bus working properly, now is the time to buy a new one and keep it ready to install. The one you have to wiggle is starting to fail.

If you ignore this fabulous advice and find wiggling will not get the job done you can always directly connect the wires, or just reverse their position on the switch, in effect eliminating the switch, or using the good contacts on the switch. That will get you going.

[grantracy]

As it turns out another case of operator error ,despite best efforts managed to get one of the 12volt leads on the 24 volt side.Took a millenium tech to figure it out. Thanks for all the input regardless.