Work List

[rahangman]

OK, ready for some guidance. Tires/Wheels....want to clean my tires up, nice and shiny also the Alcoa polished wheels, really tarnished and look nice but I want them to Gleam like the pics I am seeing on the POG. Now, when I leave the key in ON position to allow the HWH system to allow it to "wakeup and make adjustments" to keep my bus level (ongoing work on Leans) , do I need to leave the chassis batteries on? Won't that leave me open for a discharged set of Chassis batteries? What about cleaning the engine compartment. I don't have an oily problem (8V92T) yet, but would like to keep it clean from road dirt/grime. I would like to use a pressure washer and would wrap plastic around the DDEC equipment but don't want to cause damage. I would be careful to not direct pressure on anything that could not take it. I want to clean up the compartment so that I might be able to foresee problems before they happen. If I should want to hook up a 3 stage charger when parked at home to chassis batteries to keep them charged, what would be the proper way to do so? I realize some of these questions sound elementary, but I do not want to mix up my old time knowledge of working on cars with the complexities of working on a bus.
1990 Prevost CC conversion, 8V92T (of course).

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Wheels and tires are a lifetime of work. We never say that to anyone with MPD. We wait until they own the bus and then tell them stuff like that.

Goodyear and Michelin both said wash the tires with soap and water. Keep them clean. Neither advocated the use of tire dressing and both said the use of those products with petroleum distillates is not necessarily good for the tires. I doubt if there are any among us that have not used tire dressings at least a little. I found an Armorall gel type tire dressing that has no petroleum distillates and I have been using it. It is in an orange container.

It goes on using the sponge applicator, and after the first washing I wipe the tires clean which removes the gooey stuff and leaves them black and slippery to the touch. I usually apply it about once every two or three months depending on how much rain I have been through.

Wheels are not so easy. If you are serious about getting them to shine invest in a good buffer, take the wheels off and buff them using various grades of jewelers rouge. If they are really bad you may want to sand them using various grades of sandpaper. I have removed deep scratches by starting with 220 grit and progressively working up to about 1500 grit, followed by buffing using white rouge. After that it is easy to maintain the shine with Mothers or any of the other aluminum polishes. A quick buff once a year brings them right back once they are in good shape.

I told you it won't be easy.

Your real problem is not leaving the key on, but it is in curing the leans. You might as well bite that bullet because it is only going to get worse. If you do the work yourself there are enough of us here that have done our entire suspension systems so you cannot get in trouble or lack for advice. If you need someone else to do it stay away from Charlie's Bait Shop and Bus Repair. Once you get into all that it takes to cure the leans you do not want someone not familiar with the system messing with it. Our resident air bag that washes with gasoline (Joe) is a good place to start if you are serious about the leans.

As to battery charging do a search. I think Truk or Mango or both installed Guest chargers with good results.

Cleaning the engine and keeping it clean is a good idea, but stick with low pressure flushing. I have had good success with Simple Green or products like that, brushing them into any greasy areas and then rinsing with a garden hose. Be careful around the fins on the radiator because they are very fragile and even a full stream from a garden hose can damage them. I have never masked off the computer, but i also have never aimed a spray at it.

I have always kept my engines painted after cleaning because oil spots or coolant leaks will show up easily. Catching the minor stuff quickly often prevents the serious problems.

If I were to give advice it is forget the tires and wheels until you are sure all routine maintenance is current. That means coolant is within the two year life unless you use extended life, the coach has been lubed, oil is fresh, differential oil has been changed on schedule, all hub oil baths are at the required level, all filters are current, and you are confident all brake chambers are not so old you risk a diapragm failure. Then go after the leans. Once the bus is mechanically sound give those tires and wheels a shine. You never want to be thinking about how pretty your wheels look while your bus is on the back of a tow truck.

[truk4u]

Rahangman,

Jon pretty much covered everything and I'll add a few comments.

I assume your plugged in all the time and your aux compressor has enough capacity to bring your bus to the level position, many won't. The key on during this process won't use much chassis juice and your aux compressor would run off shore power, gen or your inverter using the house batteries. To keep the chassis charged up, a 24 volt Guest Charger is your best bet. It's a 3 stage charge that ends in a float charge and will do no harm to your batteries. I bought mine from Aircraft Spruce, but they can be found in many places.

4582

You will have to have a 120 power source in your passenger side engine compartment. Some have a receptacle back there and some don't. I have used the 120 block heater source for power.

If you buy one, let us know, I can send you the wiring instructions that you will need since your system is both 12/24 parallel and serial.

[rahangman]

Rahangman,

Jon pretty much covered everything and I'll add a few comments.

I assume your plugged in all the time and your aux compressor has enough capacity to bring your bus to the level position, many won't. The key on during this process won't use much chassis juice and your aux compressor would run off shore power, gen or your inverter using the house batteries. To keep the chassis charged up, a 24 volt Guest Charger is your best bet. It's a 3 stage charge that ends in a float charge and will do no harm to your batteries. I bought mine from Aircraft Spruce, but they can be found in many places.

Yes, I am plugged into 50amp at home . The aux air comp is a 12v Thomas model that I replaced due to old one not working. I plan on an attempted repair to save as a "spare" it takes the aux system to 100# with apprarent ease, but does not seem to level the coach. The leans are not too bad, but as Jon has told me "get the soapwater going" and find those leaks! I have a good charger with 3 stage charging incl a float charge but it is only 12v.


4582

You will have to have a 120 power source in your passenger side engine compartment. Some have a receptacle back there and some don't. I have used the 120 block heater source for power.

I have a block heater and plan on checking to see if there is an outlet in the engine bay. If not, I might opt for an external plug in so that I can utilize it.

If you buy one, let us know, I can send you the wiring instructions that you will need since your system is both 12/24 parallel and serial.

Thanx for the offers-I will take you up on it when ready....being retired is great, I am learning that "immediately" is spelled differently now.

[adamdegraff]

I'm ready to buff. Any recommendations? I don't want a buffer that burns out. Are there certain heads/pads to use or is it a universal head with different grit compounds? I don't have any deep scratches, but I have light surface scratches and water spots that I am ready to say goodbye to.

~Adam

[rahangman]

Wheels and tires are a lifetime of work. We never say that to anyone with MPD. We wait until they own the bus and then tell them stuff like that.

Goodyear and Michelin both said wash the tires with soap and water. Keep them clean. Neither advocated the use of tire dressing and both said the use of those products with petroleum distillates is not necessarily good for the tires. I doubt if there are any among us that have not used tire dressings at least a little. I found an Armorall gel type tire dressing that has no petroleum distillates and I have been using it. It is in an orange container.

I have been using a weak solution of Simple Green % water...also, a slightly stronger solution with fresh lime is "tasty" after 5pm. I have been somewhat hesitant in using tire dressings for the same reasons you have stated, but will give this product a try. Less than perfect wheels will wait as you suggest, but a little bling on the tires will make me feel better about the upcoming task of wheels.

It goes on using the sponge applicator, and after the first washing I wipe the tires clean which removes the gooey stuff and leaves them black and slippery to the touch. I usually apply it about once every two or three months depending on how much rain I have been through.

Wheels are not so easy. If you are serious about getting them to shine invest in a good buffer, take the wheels off and buff them using various grades of jewelers rouge. If they are really bad you may want to sand them using various grades of sandpaper. I have removed deep scratches by starting with 220 grit and progressively working up to about 1500 grit, followed by buffing using white rouge. After that it is easy to maintain the shine with Mothers or any of the other aluminum polishes. A quick buff once a year brings them right back once they are in good shape.

I have a good air buffer with assorted bonnets, 2 tubes of white rouge left in bus, and a nephew who works in a body shop, who I hope to convince that a few hours of work would be excellent experience, but I like your suggestion about the 1500+ sandpaper to move things along.



I told you it won't be easy.

Your real problem is not leaving the key on, but it is in curing the leans. You might as well bite that bullet because it is only going to get worse. If you do the work yourself there are enough of us here that have done our entire suspension systems so you cannot get in trouble or lack for advice. If you need someone else to do it stay away from Charlie's Bait Shop and Bus Repair. Once you get into all that it takes to cure the leans you do not want someone not familiar with the system messing with it. Our resident air bag that washes with gasoline (Joe) is a good place to start if you are serious about the leans.

As you have already told me previously, I am working slowly on the leans. Having worked on Pneumatic/Hydraulic systems when in the USAF , I remember the drill. Just not had to practice it too much in a long time.


As to battery charging do a search. I think Truk or Mango or both installed Guest chargers with good results.

Cleaning the engine and keeping it clean is a good idea, but stick with low pressure flushing. I have had good success with Simple Green or products like that, brushing them into any greasy areas and then rinsing with a garden hose. Be careful around the fins on the radiator because they are very fragile and even a full stream from a garden hose can damage them. I have never masked off the computer, but i also have never aimed a spray at it.

I have always kept my engines painted after cleaning because oil spots or coolant leaks will show up easily. Catching the minor stuff quickly often prevents the serious problems.

If I were to give advice it is forget the tires and wheels until you are sure all routine maintenance is current. That means coolant is within the two year life unless you use extended life, the coach has been lubed, oil is fresh, differential oil has been changed on schedule, all hub oil baths are at the required level, all filters are current, and you are confident all brake chambers are not so old you risk a diapragm failure. Then go after the leans. Once the bus is mechanically sound give those tires and wheels a shine. You never want to be thinking about how pretty your wheels look while your bus is on the back of a tow truck.

I am checking my records for all the items you mention above (all makes good sense) when I took coach into Branson Mtr Coach in Branson (close to home). Most of it is done. My recent quest has been on checking hoses, etc and of course keeping tires checked. THANX so much.

[Jerry Winchester]

I bought a flexible shaft buffer that attaches to a drill along with the correct buffing pads for the job at OSH last year.

The buffing polish and materials were from Busch and that included some pretty stout cleaner that will basically strip all the gunk and old crud from the rims. But then you have to polish the holes as well. But they have a pad especially made for that, so all you need is Loc there holding the drill trigger and pointing out any spots you missed.

In fact, I bought him the same kit and I think he had his porter polish his wheels, so you can probably but it from him at a discount.

http://www.buschshineproducts.com/images/med%20flex%20shift.jpg

http://www.buschshineproducts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

[flyu2there]

Jon,

You mentioned Simple Green, everyone should make certain that they buy the Simple Green for aircraft....big difference there.......

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I was going to qualify that when I typed it, but there is little in the engine area that will be affected if anything.

Long before Aviation Simple Green was introduced I was using the regular Simple Green (knowing it is not good on aluminum) and found it created no issues if it was rinsed soon after application and thorougly.

For those unaware there is a version of Simple Green that is specificaly for use with aluminum called Extreme Simple Green. It is available from Aircraft Spruce http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php