Rear bumper removal

[jelmore]

When removing the rear bumper on an XL, there are two large screws at the ends of the bumper on the outside. Anyone know if there are nuts on the other side? Looks extremely difficult to get to if so. I doubt it, but wanted to check. that section is missing in the online Prevost body manual.

[Toy Box]

The two bolts are threaded into a threaded back plate or nut cert. You don't have access to the back side.

[jelmore]

So that means it's ok to take the screws out? Things won't fall apart?

[jelmore]

Thanks Toy Box. I didn't even know what a nut cert was. This looks like it has the backing plate. Trying to paint in the engine compartment. Fun!

[ajducote]

Jim,

Good timing on your part. I was planning on removing my rear bumper and mud guard in a few weeks to clean up back there. Please post any tips, tricks or issues that you learn.

Good luck, hope it all works out.

[jelmore]

Andre, I painted today. Removing the rear bumper would would have made it easier but I skipped that part. Thought I'd have to go at it twice so I'll take the bumper off next time. I think it's very heavy. Prevost recommends it be supported before removing it.

I painted the right side platform, door jambs, some of the engine cradle, some structure down to the hitch, the fuel filter stand, touch up on some bolts, etc. To do a really, really good job, you have to practically disassemble everything.

I did find a good rust conversion primer that I like . . .
NAPA Permatex Rust Treatment
And a good color paint match . . .
Lowe's Valspar "Lead Cast" matched by Sherwin Williams in their All Surface Enamel Oil Base Satin Ultra Deep Base.

The only thing mechanical I did was remove the fuel filter from the stand and used lots of duct tape to hold it out of the way. Tried to unscrew hold downs for an air line and couldn't, so that part isn't detailed too well.

Have fun. Yours is inside or mostly so, right? That should help.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Jim your spraying that gray or brushing it? Is it an EXACT match on color?

If anyone has ever tried to remove one of those line fasteners you referred to they had to chuckle when they read it.

You can pretty much figure if you ever need to pull any of those you WILL be either drilling or grinding or both. A combination of the extreme heat and, electrolysis on them little buggers.

On an XL the entire roof of the engine compartment is the air intake duct off the drivers side. The entire thing is screwed in. It is a little rusty and to do it right as you say it all needs to come apart. I have not found ANY of those screws that I have been able to move with a screwdriver:eek:

What do you spray copper with to keep it shiny after you polish and will put up with engine compartment heat?

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Don't be afraid of taking the bumper off. First of all the thing will hang there while you remove the last bolts. On Jim's Liberty he has to pull the electrical connections to the lights and remove the two screws holding the toad wiring plug housing, but the rest is just bolted in place.

I have removed my rear bumper several times for various reasons and I don't know where Prevost gets the need to prop it up.

[jelmore]

Jim your spraying that gray or brushing it? Is it an EXACT match on color?

What do you spray copper with to keep it shiny after you polish and will put up with engine compartment heat?

I'm brushing. This coach looks like Liberty or someone did an overspray, not quite the right color, for the last buyer -- part of their make-it-look-good program, probably. The color I've used is really close to the factory gray, but it's just a tad green. Depends on the light.

I haven't gotten to polishing copper. I'm just trying to convert the surface rust and provide some future protection. The detailing that some of you do is beyond me. I don't have the place, tools or experience to do it like you guys. But you all sure make them look good.