Starting Problems

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Got back from a short weekend in Wis. to meet some of you and after we returned Sunday I was out messin around, went to restart the bus for a minute and nothing? Checked all the obvious stuff, batteries, ground, ect.. Also checked the ignition switch, it is o/k and replaced the start relay on the drivers fuse compartment. Cant check the rear start because it never worked. Tapped on the starter a few times too, nothing. Anybody know the correct way to jump the starter so I can check it without frying something?

[lewpopp]

do you have a jump start button on a panel by your right knee as you sit in the drivers seat? Not starting may be due to not flipping the switches in the engine compartment. If you forgot, your starting batteries will run down after a week or so.

If you have a start button, push it at the same time you are trying to start with the key. It may surprise you. Sometimes the buttons are difficult to read so I mad small labels for all of them.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

There isint a jump start button on this bus,the aux. start button at the engine is in the right position, just got back from a 400 mile weekend hours earlier and the batteries never go below 27 volts or so no matter how long it sits without use?

[dalej]

Joe does it have normal starting sounds? does it turn over but not start? or is it just dead? could be anything, hopfully simple!

[Jerry Winchester]

Joe,

I would check to see that you had power at the starter. You can make yourself a aux starter button with some wire and an old button and some clamps. When affixed to the solenoid, you should be able to see if the thing will turn over or not. That will either eleminate the wiring to the starter soleniod or confirm you have a loose battery connection.

My bet is a battery cable or something like that.

[Joe Cannarozzi]

First of all thank all of you for your suggestions. What it was doing, exactly, was when I turned the key to on all the warning lights would come on and the solonoids would all click but it start position it did nothing. Turns out I was waiting for some 24 volt bulbs to put in my circut tester and the testers you can get for 5bucks are good for 6,12 and 24 volt? Now would someone explaine why the bulb in the tester can handle all three voltages and we are forced to 24 only, at least some of us , anayway I also learned that the scematics on the doors of the fuse pannels are both detailed and vague. First I started at the ingition switch but didnt get far because the start wire, blue wire, that comes off the ignition switch is not numbered and the description on the scematic does not refer to it speciffically so I had no idea what lug it was attachad to at the front fuse box. As it turns out this saved me time because I then decided to go to the starter and work my way forward instead. The end terminal for the start wire that attatches to the starter solonoid was broke and the wire was hanging! They have it protected with a oversized aeroquip hose and the weight of it all I think is what made it brake. 1 new end terminal and a quick tie and wala. Got the engine bay start button working also. I think it was not used for so long the contacts were corroded or something and just depressing it as mamy times as I did looking for the other problem cured that too!

[truk4u]

Good job Joe, your back in the saddle.:cool:

[rfoster]

You know - it is kind of amazing - everytime one of these things brake down, we manage to get it going again. I have lived in Tennessee most of my life and I have yet to see one on concrete blocks in anybodies yard.

[Just Plain Jeff]

Hey Roger, we keep all those coaches in Maine in the woods. They didn't make it 'quite back' to the factory.

We're off through Canada tomorrow (In the UP of Michigan now) and will keep our eyes out for the blocks and bus combo.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I think when Mango heard what he will have to pay for parts to fix some stuff on his he will have it up on blocks.