Tire Question

[Yankee802]

First, is there any benefit to putting covers on the tires? Being I currently only take my coach on a montly maintainance run for about 60 miles, the tires don't move much, is there any way to protect them?

Second, the previous owner stated to me the tires were recently replaced. I have no reason to doubt him and they look good to my untrained eyes. However, I did look for the dates on the tires and could only find it on a few of the tires, they were dated in 2002. Assuming these tires were put on the coach in new condition, but manufactured in 2002, what should be my course of action? Do I replace them four years from now, or now? I REALLY don't want to shell out the $4k for tires now, but also don't want any issues.

Geoff

[Jon Wehrenberg]

If you believe tires need covers, then you believe the sidewalls toward the inside would never crack since they never are exposed to the sun. We all know that is not true.

From tire seminars:

Keep the tires clean. The use of petroleum based tire treatments is not recommended.

Use the tires. A rolling tire brings protective chemicals to the surface to protect the tire from cracking and dry rot.

MAINTAIN THE TIRE PRESSURES SPECIFIED FOR THE LOAD BEING CARRIED. A TIRE DRIVEN WITH THE PRESSURE DOWN BY ONLY 20% HAS EFFECTIVELY BEEN DESTROYED.

If the coach will sit for any length of time, store the tires as they do in a warehouse by taking the weight off them. (That means raising the axles until the tires clear the ground. I'm not judging how or if we should do this, just repeating what was said.)

You can likely do the research by going to the various tire manufacturer's sites. A good tread depth does not mean the tire is safe. Sidewall cracking is likely to be the reason for replacing tires because we tend to have tires age out instead of wearing out.

[dale farley]

Geoff, During one of the seminars we had at the Branson rally (or maybe it was Tennessee), the tire manufacturer said that tires really start aging the day they are installed. This assumes that they were stored in a clean, dry warehouse prior to installation.

Several of the POG members have had tires installed and discovered they were a few years old at that time. The dates on my tires were 2 years old when installed. It does sound a little excessive that your's are newly-installed tires that were made in 2002.

If I were going to run them for any length of time, I would install one of the tire monitoring systems ($450-$600) and keep very close watch on the tires. Although not a fool-proof system, the monitors will immediately alert you if one of the tires blows out. This is very critical if it is on one of the inside drive wheels, since you might not know the tire blew until it had caused other damage to the bus. I would also update my front tires.

[Yankee802]

Quick question, untill I get the oportunity to accurately weight all four corners of my coach, is it wise/ok to keep 110psi in all the tires?

Ok, got another one. :) I read somewhere an automotive detailer used motor oil as his secret for dressing tires and keeping them shinny. Would this be a good idea for helping keeping our tires from dry rotting? You know, applying it as you would any other tire dressing?

[dale farley]

Geoff, I would definitely not use motor oil on my tires. You shouldn't put anything on your tires that has a petroleum base. At the seminar I mentioned in a previous post, the tire manufacturer said tire dressings (non-petro type) make your tires look good, but don't really do anything to prolong tire life. I still like to use a dressing myself. They do look better, and I think it may help the rubber.

[Yankee802]

Ok, good to know, it sounded like a good idea, but figured I'd get the thumbs up/down here first.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Welcome to the group Geoff, missed your entrance.

The seminar Jon was referring to also pointed out that it is ozone and not ultraviolet light that is the detriment to the tire compound.

Your best tire care is to keep them rolling, at proper pressure, clean and damage free.

Increase your usage to 60 miles twice a month for double the enjoyment.

By the way, NICE BUS!, you should be proud to have found a true classic.
If you keep it "right" you too may realize a "million bucks" at Barret Jackson in 30 years, and break even :eek:;):D

[dalej]

Jim! your gone for who knows how long and you come back only to answer a tire question!!

How have you been doing? Fill us in on that bus deal!

Sorry, didn't see you posted under ?????

[MangoMike]

3719

I've used this with great results. No petro chemicals.

mm

http://www.properautocare.com/303-16.html


Jim, Good to see you arise like the Phoenix.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Jim! your gone for who knows how long and you come back only to answer a tire question!!

How have you been doing? Fill us in on that bus deal!

Sorry, didn't see you posted under ?????


It's been sooooooooo long I forgot I bought a bus:D:D:rolleyes:

So Dale, I bought a Makita electric torque wrench from my neighbor.
$250.00, and supposed to be new. Do you you think it will work well on lug nuts. (anyone feel free to comment)
I hope I never need it on the road. I will give a report on its functionality at my firs opportunity.

That reminds me of something to tell all with the X12 torque multiplier. According to the manufacturer the tool components are not designed to take the stress, or speed of a lesser torque wrench such as a 1/2" model to speed and hurry the task. He says if you want to spin off the nuts get an adapter for a battery powered drill and do it that way.
JIM

[BrianE]

Agree with Mango. 303 is goood stuff. Welcome back Jim.

And speaking of Phoenix, if anyone has considered buying a used Royale and is worried about product support, Royale Phoenix is the greatest. Owned and operated by the two main Royale engineers and assisted by Royale's gal friday, Vicky Jordan, Royale owners can be assured of excellent service and in most cases, immediate technical assistance.

What a pleasant change..............:rolleyes:

[dalej]

Didn't know it was there! Royal Phoenix?

[BrianE]

http://www.royalephoenix.com/

[hhoppe]

Sorry Brian but my Royale questions to Royal Phoenix fell on deaf ears. No response of any consequence. Of course my unit was an 89 model and was out of the realm of importance.

[Yankee802]

deleted...please read on. :)

[Yankee802]

The seminar Jon was referring to also pointed out that it is ozone and not ultraviolet light that is the detriment to the tire compound.

By the way, NICE BUS!, you should be proud to have found a true classic.
If you keep it "right" you too may realize a "million bucks" at Barret Jackson in 30 years, and break even :eek:;):D

Thank Jim, I appreicate it. I guess in 30 years I might be ready for another bus and might sell this one at Barret. Anyone remember that VW Bug/Beetle? I think it was like a '67 or so, MINT and with like 37 miles!!

Anyway, refering to the ozone effecting our tires, will the 303 Aerospace Protectant help at all with that? Is there any defense?

And my 110psi question was 'untill I know the weight at each corner, is it good/safe to put 110psi in each?'

edit: please see following post. (not that you wouldn't anyway)

[Yankee802]

I have 12/22.5 XZ2's on my baby, I just went on my maintenance run and weighed each axle. I'm 13300 steer, 17800 drive, and 9020 tags, for 40k total. (full fuel and water, empty waste, oh and me) I just checked the Michelin tire load chart, and WHOA, :eek: I'm way over in psi in my rears! I was feeling guilty having only around 105psi in each and not topping them to 110 as the previous owner told me to have.



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Should I bleed out all the air from my rears? Should I realy go below 75psi?!? :confused:

What is kPa? And what is the LRH designation after my tire size in the chart? I don't remember seeing this on my tires.

[phorner]

I would not run any pressure less than the minimum shown on your tire chart.

The "LRH" refers to Load Range "H" and kPa is a unit of pressure measurement used in countries that typically use metric measurement. Stands for kilopascal and is just another way to measure/describe pressure.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

The excess pressure in the tag and drives is going to affect the ride and the wear pattern on the tires. If it were my bus I would run 110, 75 and 75, front to rear.

I'm going by memory so my numbers may be off a little but my recollection of my tire pressures on my '87 coach with 12.00 tires was 110, 80 and 75 or thereabouts.

If 303 is going to save the tires from ozone damage, I am going to presume those advocates of its use apply it between the duals and on the rear side of the tires as often as they apply it to the outside. Right??????

[dalej]

Geoff,

Our coach front is about the same as yours just a couple hundred lighter. We went with 315's so we wouldn't be pushing the limit. I just feel better with the added tire size.

I have always wanted to know if a tire such as a 12R that is rated at 13,000+ at 110 psi, is there a built in tolerance for when you go over a bridge that makes your bus feel like it's going to bottom out. That has to put so much extra weight on the tires for a few seconds.

[truk4u]

The chart is fine, but be sure it's applicable to your tire size, 315's or 12R's, there is a difference.

[Yankee802]

If 303 is going to save the tires from ozone damage, I am going to presume those advocates of its use apply it between the duals and on the rear side of the tires as often as they apply it to the outside. Right??????

I don't know, but it sure as hell what I was thinking I'd would do. I'd squeeze myself or my wife (much smaller) under there somehow and spray that stuff on the backside of all the tires as well as the inside drive tires.

Ok guys, I'm fairly knowledgeable on car tires, but I guess bus tires are another animal. I assume 315 is the width of tread of the tire you're mentioning? Mine say 12/22.5 XZ2 on the sidewall, but I don't recall seeing an R designation. Is there a basic primer on tires for our busses? Other than some electronices and tint, the coach has what it came with when I bought it.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Geoff,

This is not a suggestion. DO NOT ever get under your bus unless it is properly supported at the chassis support points by a support or jack stand rated for the weight.

I was joking about spraying stuff between and on the back side of tires to point out the absurdity of claims.

[jimshoen]

I will have to second Jon again.
Do not go under your bus for any reason, UNTIL it is correctly and fully supported at all for corners!
I have seen service techs go under the busses in big shops with less than perfect support. A very bad idea.