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garyde
08-20-2008, 11:30 PM
Well, another vacation and a list of broken and or damaged Bus Parts. I'm wondering who has had a small list or no list of repairs after a trip.
I was in Oregon for 7 days, most of the time parked. I took the coach out one day to get a lube and oil change.
So, I have one broken port waste dump outlet , the macerator did not work,:mad:
Vanity lights in bedroom stopped working, a bad relay. The air seal on the living room slide sprung a leak, and a on going issue with the Direct TV and or Satelite .
Not a big list but the slide seal will run close to $3000.00.:eek:

Maybe I should find a comprehensive Insurance policy covering parts, drive train, engine, etc. for the Coach. Has anyone heard of such a policy for Prevost Conversions?:

Sid Tuls
08-20-2008, 11:34 PM
Gary, If a air seal goes out can you still operate the slide?? What did you do? Just like to know if or when it happens to me.

dale farley
08-21-2008, 12:19 AM
Gary, If you are serious, you can get a maintenance policy through Good Sam that covers most systems on the bus. They offered me one for about $2000 a year. They cover RVs up to 10 years old.

garyde
08-21-2008, 01:18 AM
Gary, If a air seal goes out can you still operate the slide?? What did you do? Just like to know if or when it happens to me.



Hi Sid. The Air Seal is a two part rubber gasket. The blade, which is what you see on the perimeter outside of the slide, and the tube which is behind the blade. You can drive without the tube inflated but you do not have a air- tite seal. So, you get less cooling or heating and some dust can get in.
I drove home from Oregon and did not notice much dust inside.

Jon Wehrenberg
08-21-2008, 05:57 AM
I hope this doesn't scare potential buyers, but I cannot think of a trip that did not have a list of "stuff" to be looked at or fixed.

The first coach had much simpler systems so the lists at the end of a trip involved items such as loose cabinet hinges or light bulb replacement. The current coach is more complex and so is the list of items needing attention. This last list of repairs, like Gary's, included a stubborn satellite problem, a failed gray water by-pass valve, and replacement of the forward outlets GFCI.

With apologies to those among us who have the XLII and slide coaches we have drawn a line in the sand and are sticking with our non-slide, rivet coach because the potential for every trip to become a maintenance nightmare has ramped up dramatically as the coaches get loaded with more complex automatic and power devices. We have spoken to owners who are less than happy with the reliability of their power window shades, power awning windows and power awnings. We have read of issues with slides, and I see a multiplex coach as being computerized complexity that pushes the repair costs to another level. I don't even want to think about a coach that is glued together by folks that seem to have problems changing a hub seal.

We have found that if we make our notes about things needing attention on the drive home, and if I complete the list before the next trip the required effort is really minimal. My satellite problem I am hoping was a defective straight connector for the cable, I had a bad coil on the gray water by-pass valve that was easily replaced and the GFCI is just an electrical outlet also easily replaced. I can accept problems like this because we do have a lot of stuff in our coaches that get vibrated, shaken and banged around just by driving down the road. I'm surprised more of the coach doesn't need to be fixed at the end of a trip.

But I am staying away from coaches with even more built in complexity because the problems associated with them seem to increase exponentially.

meandmyprs
08-21-2008, 10:21 AM
My bus is at Prevost Dallas right now because the Living room slide "blade" keeps folding back under and creating a small gap under the "seal". No big deal EXCEPT it creates a path for water which if the coach is level or leaning starboard a tad it will funnel that water thorugh your light fixtures right on to the couch, table, etc. It is a nice effect but one I could do without. Prevost replaced the seal when I bought the bus last October so I guess this means there is a 50/50 chance I get a bill. Here is the rest of my list from our recent trip:

Electric black dump valve quit working (replaced)
Front Pass Side wheel seal leak (in progress)
Port A/C not cooling properly (loose wire found)
Windshield Washers INOP (bad relay)
Gen Oil Pressure Gauge INOP (gauge went bad)
"Someone" left a can of OFF on the driver seat overnight and it ate through the leather (leather repair guy fixed this)...this is jsut a PSA for leaving OFF laying around.
Sheep taped to my windshield (different problem)

I have just come to the conclusion, that, no different from owning a plane there will probably always be some sort of squawk list. I will trade my bus squawk list for my Monaco squawk list any day.

I should add that I bought my Bus from Marathon Dallas and they have been fantastic in working through all issues for me. I could not imagine doing this without the support of a dealer/shop right of the bat.

Brent

Jerry Winchester
08-21-2008, 12:37 PM
Brent,

You might chat with the Krakman because he seems to have that same recurring sheep problem with his coach.......

JDUB

jello_jeep
08-21-2008, 12:47 PM
I hear he has a house account at Tony Lama too ;)


Brent,

You might chat with the Krakman because he seems to have that same recurring sheep problem with his coach.......

JDUB

truk4u
08-21-2008, 08:13 PM
Brent,

I have decided that from now on, I'll just go ahead and tape the sheep to the front of the bus as soon as I arrive at a Rally or function involving the Turd Boys. That way there are no surprises and I can actually call in a sortie on myself!;) I now have 2 deflated sheep, seems the Acme Supply Company has an endless supply.

MangoMike
08-21-2008, 09:51 PM
sheepman

3248

mikedee
08-21-2008, 11:23 PM
Here is the list,
1. New tires on the Hummer H3, ruined a tire on some ones lost drill bit --$800.00
2. Couple inside bulbs -- $4.00
3. Generator repair, was broke before we left -- $500.00
4. Major service, hub oil changed, A/C leak found and recharge, two windshields at Prevost ML before we left --$2,600.00
5. Overflowed the bathroom, was using the tank flush and got talking to the guy next to me, forgot to open the drain valve until Dee came a screaming. It would have been funny if she was sitting on the john.

Gary's estimate of a million miles equal a million dollars is about right or maybe low.

sawdust_128
08-22-2008, 12:58 AM
As a newbie, I can tell you that my first reaction to all this was, as Jon stated, scared and worried about the "what have I done now? syndrome. So, as I usually do when my balancing act of life becomes disturbed, I go back to basics and do a reset. So here it is,

I bought a Prevost because there wasn't another coach out there that made sense to me to sink money into. That was no light decision. We "Kicked the dead horse, then all it's parts" for about a year and one half getting to that conclusion.

I would not buy it, I could not justify it when it would be an occasional use toy, but it was my first choice when the decision was made that it would be our home.

Of all the things I have in my life, my wife is most dear to me. I could justify the additional cost of the quality, servicability, upgraded systems, the additional costs of the redundant system, all the maintenance, and all the time I would put in to make it work so that she would be happy, comfortable, safe and secure. For me, as I believe it is for most here, the conclusion quickly becomes that the dollars and hours spent fixing are a bargin for the rewards. I wasn't sure that those rewards were available with a decision different than Prevost.

For those who might be reading this in preparation to buy a Prevost, understand this, Poggers are a very unique group of people. The talents and skill sets here are just amazing in their great diversity and high levels of acheivement. Consider the following as you read. Maybe not all, but a lot of the gripes, complaints, problems, criticisms, etc. are just distractions along the route in a pogger's quest for the perfect Prevost. Mountains are made from mole hills when the standard has been set that less than perfect is unacceptable. It is a matter of personal perspective if this is a negative however, if you are there, I suggest you keep reading the forum. Read the threads where someone has broken down in a foreign country and take note of the resources that were brought to the table to help and save the day. Read about all the "newbie" questions that get answered without hesitation. Read about the cooperative efforts for improving life in a Prevost. Take note while you are reading that you are only reading because of the sharing that goes on and a lot of the sharing is about the little things.

As a newbie myself, here is my perspective: How many of you can go take a walk around your house and cars and not find enough items to make a two-page list of things to do? Make sure that if you can't, you go talk to your spouse. Now that you have your three-page list, sit down and ask yourself this question, Why do I expect anything different from my bus?

As I stated earlier, when things get out of balance, I return to basics and disect to be able to apply simple solutions. The above stated question has resulted in my formulating the following set of rules which I share here for other newbies to consider:

Sawdust_128's Rules for Happy Prevost Ownership

1. Do not sweat the small stuff.

2. It is all small stuff.

3. You can't change Rules 1 & 2.

4. Unless you absolutely have to, don't do it with your own money.

5. Do not get arrested.


I leave you to your own thoughts to determine if this will work for you.

phorner
08-22-2008, 07:33 AM
And,

6. Always get a receipt for your fuel purchase :D

Jon Wehrenberg
08-22-2008, 07:40 AM
I put it in perspective in this fashion.....

Compared to the cost of maintaining my planes the cost of operating and maintaining the bus is chump change.

phorner
08-22-2008, 11:58 AM
We hit the road from Port St. Lucie on June 1, have travelled some 4000 miles, and so far (knock on vitricor) have not had any real issues with the bus. The only couple of problems encountered so far were related solely with the toad braking system and that was resolved.

The only bus-related failure has been the loss of one of our AM/FM radio antennae mast's that bailed out from the roof somewhere in Arkansas, and we have a replacement on board which I will install when the urge hits.

All we have to do is make it back to Florida unscathed and it will have been a truly pleasurable trip.

merle&louise
08-22-2008, 01:13 PM
I had a brake job done last week ($1986) for the rear only; had rotors on tag turned and new drums on the drive axle.

Replaced motor/control unit on Kwikee steps $213

I tore off the muffler straps turning around in a church parking lot driveway; it was way too steep but that didn't stop me. I scraped 2 lines in the concrete about 3 feet long going in and the same thing coming out.

Damn the torpedos and full speed ahead!:D

Hey Gary, if you weren't spending your money on the Liberty what would you spend it on. Be thankful you've got a nice bus; alot of folks don't:D

Wanna trade?:eek:

sawdust_128
08-22-2008, 01:51 PM
And,

6. Always get a receipt for your fuel purchase :D


It was actually your posts that stimulated the considerations that lead to #5. I will add the tidbit above to the How To section under #5. :D

Petervs
08-22-2008, 09:21 PM
A million miles for a million bucks? Wake up, you must be dreaming!

Heck, with diesel at $5 a gallon and 7.5 mpg we are spending most of a buck a mile on fuel alone. Not to mention repairs, depreciation, etc,etc.

BUT, the experiences are priceless, so we pay what it costs and smile all the way down the road. You can not go down the road in finer style after all.

You sure do not hear of POG members selling the bus and giving up the lifestyle because of repair costs and frequency. I have not heard of any in any case.

PS: Now anytime I see a 3 foot scrape gouge in the asphalt I will know, "Tuga was here!"

Kevin Erion
08-24-2008, 07:40 PM
My punch list after a 6000 mile trip, just got home last night.

1) Seal behind 270 AMP Alt pully leaking, I installed a new one just before we left home and it lasted 4000 miles. I was told by Ft. Worth and Mira Loma that this happens often. Any input on this would be welcome.

2) the pinion shaft seal on the rear end is leaking, it was leaking when we left but I had no time to get it done. My 99 was leaking at about the same mileage, 118000, I needed a new pinion shaft on the other bus, I will let you know if this one is the same.

3) A few rattles that I have to get after.

4) The remote for the power winder for the power cord is acting up, I hope just a battery for the remote. I should be so lucky.

After a great trip to see Thomas Jefferson's House and few days at a Beautiful lake house on Lake Nantahala in NC, I can say that we had a great trip and never felt like we got even close to needing any help.

Can't wait until the next trip!

phorner
08-25-2008, 07:47 PM
Well, I just knew that when I posted earlier that we had no repairs to speak of that our good luck would come to a screeching halt :(

So, as we made our way into NJ, I was showing the bus off to family and friends when the entertainment bay door failed to unlock when I hit the unlock button.

All bay doors, including the entertainment bay, will lock with the electric lock. However, the entertainment bay door will not unlock by using the keypad, remote fob or inside electric lock switch. Locks OK but not unlock.

So, what's the scoop to fixing this rascal. And, how do I get to it?

I'll be anxiously waiting by the toolbox for comments, suggestions and detailed instruction alike :D

Jon Wehrenberg
08-25-2008, 08:17 PM
Paul,

We have different electrical systems so take the following with a grain of salt until you have checked it out.

Step one, lube the pin that slides into the handle to lock it with a suitable oil or grease. I have used white lithium grease, WD40, and silicone spray. Using the key you should be able to feel less drag when locking or unlocking after the pins are lubed up.

On my 24 volt Liberty I have two octagonal base relays that handle the load of the lock / unlock solenoids and if the contacts get dirty and it imposes resitance in the circuit the locks will not function. They are very sensitive to low voltage. (Obviously make sure you had good voltage because low house voltage will also cause this problem) Start with lubing, but if that doesn't work have Janice actuate the bay lock switch off and on while you locate the two relays that are switching. You will see and hear them switching. On my coach they are located on the forward wall where the circuit breakers are located, about halfway up and to the center of the coach.

I got the replacements at a WW Grainger, but any industrial supply house should have them because they are generic. Yours are likely to have a 12V coil.

phorner
08-25-2008, 08:48 PM
Jon,

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll try the lube and see how it works. Regarding the relays, is it a single relay to actuate all the locks, or does each lock have its own? It's only the one door that won't unlock when I hit the switch, all others work fine.

Jerry Winchester
08-25-2008, 10:05 PM
Paul,

I'll bet the actuator is bad. We had the same problem on our '92 and I lubed them until you could follow me by the trail of WD-40, lithium, etc dripping from the doors and in the end the solenoid was bad.

jimshoen
08-26-2008, 12:32 AM
After owning my coach for 1.5 years I have become comfortable with the maintenance and repair. Initially I was overwhelmed and a bit intimidated. Now I find it relaxing to read through the Prevost manuals. Maintaining the coach has become my new hobby and I like it. So does my wife. She always knows where to find me. MPD

Jon Wehrenberg
08-26-2008, 07:25 AM
Paul,

I don't know if each relay is dedicated to a bank of locks or if they together handle the entire switching load.

Jerry is also correct, it could be a bad solenoid. If it unlocks but doesn't lock or vice versa you can rule that out I would think so you do not have to tear apart the door. If you think it is the solenoid to verify it I would suggest ohming out the circuit using the wires going into the door before tearing the door apart. The resistance can be compared with one that works.

Only Jerry (who gets his oil for free) would use enough lube oil to leave a trail before he figured out the solenoid was bad.

dale farley
08-26-2008, 11:04 AM
Paul, I think Jerry is probably on the right track with this one. I had one bay lock that was intermittent on my last Marathon. After having no luck with lubrication, I ordered a new actuator from Prevost (about $65) and solved the problem. The installation was fairly simple.

phorner
08-26-2008, 05:00 PM
Well, this morning I hit the unlock switch and the door lock in question worked perfectly..... several times..... never missed a beat!

The only difference that was apparent was a significant drop in temperature over night, so a lock mechanism with inadequate or marginal lubrication might have failed to open when hot, or so I'm hoping. Always locked OK.

Lubed the lock (with oil hat I paid for :)) and so far all is well.

Or it very well could be an intermittent electrical/actuator problem that will continue to raise it's ugly little head and annoy the crap outta me 'till I finally break down and fix it :eek:

In any event, if this is the biggest challenge 'till I get back home to Florida, I'll feel very fortunate indeed!