Engine Pressure Washing

[0533]

I want to pressure wash my engine compartment. I have had it done as part of a professional cleaning at Marathon ,but never myself. I have purchased a neat little 2000 PSI electric pressure washer and want to get in there and clean it up from time to time.

What is the rule of thumb here, hot, cold, what needs to be protected, do's and don'ts

Trucker told me that hot was ok, and nothing would be an issue, but i want the POG answer on this one.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I have always been reluctant to pressure wash. It is very fast and very effective, but it is like using a sledge hammer to drive in finishing nails.

With the electronics our engines have there are a lot of connections, openings for wires which go internally into the engine, and the electronic devices themselves. All of these plus a lot of other areas may be adversely affected by the high pressure spray. I would not hesitate to pressure wash the oil pan, the lower part of the transmission, and the area around the engine, but that is where I would draw the line.

I have used somewhat mild degreasers such as Simple Green and a light spray from a garden hose. I have used Gunk applied with a compressed air siphon hose and worked it into the grease with a brush, sometimes having to repeat the process several times, and then rinsing with a hose. I always dry the engine when I am finished.

Having said that I have seen Prevost use a steam Jenny on and around the engine so maybe I am being overly cautious. I have however had corrosion in one of the computer electrical connectors on our previous coach and I can tell you the problems that result from that can be extensive. Those problems were the result of water spraying from the wheels, but any application of water around electrical connections can produce the same results.

[0533]

I have always been reluctant to pressure wash. It is very fast and very effective, but it is like using a sledge hammer to drive in finishing nails.

With the electronics our engines have there are a lot of connections, openings for wires which go internally into the engine, and the electronic devices themselves. All of these plus a lot of other areas may be adversely affected by the high pressure spray. I would not hesitate to pressure wash the oil pan, the lower part of the transmission, and the area around the engine, but that is where I would draw the line.

I have used somewhat mild degreasers such as Simple Green and a light spray from a garden hose. I have used Gunk applied with a compressed air siphon hose and worked it into the grease with a brush, sometimes having to repeat the process several times, and then rinsing with a hose. I always dry the engine when I am finished.

Having said that I have seen Prevost use a steam Jenny on and around the engine so maybe I am being overly cautious. I have however had corrosion in one of the computer electrical connectors on our previous coach and I can tell you the problems that result from that can be extensive. Those problems were the result of water spraying from the wheels, but any application of water around electrical connections can produce the same results.
Good morning Jon,

I tend to agree with you, more of a surgical approach to the cleaning process.

I will use this theory when cleaning.

Have you ever used a product called Bo-Shield on electrical connections. We use this on our boats, spray down everything with this, it really helps in a wet saltwater environment. Could I spray electrical connections on the bus this way???

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I'm not familiar with the product. I generally follow the conservative approach when dealing with electrical devices and connections. I just keep water away from them, then I don't have to worry.

On my old coach the moisture that created the electrical terminal problems and the corrosion that followed undoubtedly occurred long before the problems arose. So while I may be able to spray water and cleaning chemical in my engine area today with no apparent problems, I may actually be creating some that will show up later. The problem I had involved three days of work removing and replacing 28 wires in a computer bundle and attaching the wires to all the sensors internal to the transmission. The connection was near the engine oil pan. I did not cause the problem, but it was caused by water and road salt but that does not change the fact that agressive engine cleaning could just as likely created the problem.

[0533]

I'm not familiar with the product. I generally follow the conservative approach when dealing with electrical devices and connections. I just keep water away from them, then I don't have to worry.

On my old coach the moisture that created the electrical terminal problems and the corrosion that followed undoubtedly occurred long before the problems arose. So while I may be able to spray water and cleaning chemical in my engine area today with no apparent problems, I may actually be creating some that will show up later. The problem I had involved three days of work removing and replacing 28 wires in a computer bundle and attaching the wires to all the sensors internal to the transmission. The connection was near the engine oil pan. I did not cause the problem, but it was caused by water and road salt but that does not change the fact that agressive engine cleaning could just as likely created the problem.
We have lived around saltwater all of our lives and Beoshield is great for this type of atmosphere. Its also great for aircraft.

Here is a link:

http://www.boeshield.com/t9info.htm

[Jon Wehrenberg]

OK,

Now I know what the product is. That is sprayed in plane wings and fuselage to provide a protective coating and to displace moisture.

I don't think it is intended to protect electrical connections and if my memory is correct when fogging the material into the aircraft electrical connections are to be protected.

[flyu2there]

You may want to give this product a try....It is not the same stuff that can be found in hardware stores. I have used it on engines and it works "muy bueno!" Wash it all off with a low volume garden hose and a fine mist...wipe dry.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/09-00809.php

[0533]

You may want to give this product a try....It is not the same stuff that can be found in hardware stores. I have used it on engines and it works "muy bueno!" Wash it all off with a low volume garden hose and a fine mist...wipe dry.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/09-00809.php
Simple green it is.

I used to live in San Luis Obispo years ago, really enjoyed the area Slo food and Ribs

[flyu2there]

Ahhh Yes........Mo's Barbecue, Jocko's, Sea Venture...just to name a few. I am off to Pismo tomorrow sans bus; way to crowded on a holiday even though I have a 100' concrete pad. I have a little house on the beach, right downtown but, as has become tradition, every yahoo and his second cousing heads to the coast during the Summer. Traffic, streets blocked, driveway blocked.........urghh:mad:

For the epicurians amongst us I have enclosed a photo of what we don't find in the SLO sea food restaurant:D

[0533]

Ahhh Yes........Mo's Barbecue, Jocko's, Sea Venture...just to name a few. I am off to Pismo tomorrow sans bus; way to crowded on a holiday even though I have a 100' concrete pad. I have a little house on the beach, right downtown but, as has become tradition, every yahoo and his second cousing heads to the coast during the Summer. Traffic, streets blocked, driveway blocked.........urghh:mad:

For the epicurians amongst us I have enclosed a photo of what we don't find in the SLO sea food restaurant:D
My wife lived on this stuff until we got married. I showed her this Pic and she ran into the kitchen to see if we still had any macaroni.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Bruce...there is a distinction that I think you missed. I was talking about the garden variety Simple Green, but John's recommendation is better.

He shows the Aviation Simple Green that is not injurious to aluminum. Regular Simple Green may damage aluminum.

In the engine area there is a minimum of aluminum and I can only think of a few things such as the air cleaner to turbo inlet tube, the bands around the belt tensioners, the oil pan, the valve cover, the transmission housing, the DDEC housing and a few other things. None are likely to suffer any ill effects if you rinse them thoroughly, but that stuff is so good you may want to use if for other things such as cleaning hub grease off the wheels if you get a leak, and in that case you definitely want the Aviation Simple Green.

Here is just one source.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/fbpages/VB09-00809.php

[0533]

Bruce...there is a distinction that I think you missed. I was talking about the garden variety Simple Green, but John's recommendation is better.

He shows the Aviation Simple Green that is not injurious to aluminum. Regular Simple Green may damage aluminum.

In the engine area there is a minimum of aluminum and I can only think of a few things such as the air cleaner to turbo inlet tube, the bands around the belt tensioners, the oil pan, the valve cover, the transmission housing, the DDEC housing and a few other things. None are likely to suffer any ill effects if you rinse them thoroughly, but that stuff is so good you may want to use if for other things such as cleaning hub grease off the wheels if you get a leak, and in that case you definitely want the Aviation Simple Green.

Here is just one source.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/fbpages/VB09-00809.php
I did not notice this. I have been a pilot and flying for over 35 years and never noticed this product was available in an aviation formula.

In Maine our aircraft were always covered with ice, so we were happy to get the ice off and be able to check our fuel tanks for water, stay warm and get up in the air, cleaning was only done in the spring and fall.