Country Coach Question

[dale farley]

Do any of the other CC owners know if the light switch panel to the left of the entrance door is fused. I took mine out to do remove one of the switches and shorted something. I either killed the circuit board or blew a breaker. I did not find a blown breaker in my ECC.

My front bumper release, bay door locks and entrance door lock work, but none of the lights.

[truk4u]

The lights are controlled by the ECC Dale. You won't find any breakers. If you shorted something out and all the fuses are OK, I would suspect the board. The other items you mentioned are also controlled by the ECC, but probably a different board.

Flyman John, what say you?

[dale farley]

Tom, I don't understand why some of the things work and some don't. When I say board, I am referring to the board that the switches by the door are attached to. I suppose it is possible, but if the board is bad, I am surprised that any of the switches are functioning. I haven't been able to find anything on the schematics.

[Denny]

Dale,

It is possible for this to happen. I have a board in my CC that works the computer dash to change displays and resets trip indicators and it is functioning just as you explained - everything works but no light on the switches. Nick Hessler looked at it in Branson and said it was the board. On the printed circuit there is a broken connection that affects the lighted switches.

Your board needs repaired or replaced, I think. Call Country Coach or Nick for repairs or replacement. There is also a company in Ohio that will repair boards - Colburn Electronic Controls, 865-773-7098. I talked to them months ago and asked about the boards when I was having problems with my computer dash. At the time, I spoke with Deanna and she said they could fix or remake any circuit board.

[dale farley]

I probably did blow the board. I plugged the plug in the wrong way before I noticed there was nothing to prevent this from happening. What's bad is that I had no problem with the board or the lights before I started.

I took it apart in an attempt to add one of the plastic flip-up covers to the Front Bumper Release switch. It is too easy to accidentally hit that switch. I didn't realize how the switches were made, and that I had to completely remove the switch to add the cover. In retrospect, I wish I had left "well enough" alone.

[truk4u]

Dale,

It's quite possible that the board the buttons are mounted to has been fried, but I was referring to the daughter boards in the ECC.

Identify the wire number to one of the buttons your having trouble with and find that wire number on the backside of the mother board. There will be a tiny micro switch you can push to activate or deactivate the light (this has the same function as pushing the button on the board you took apart). See if you have 12v at that little switch. If it works properly, then the board you took apart would be suspect. All of this assumes you didn't blow a fuse on the front side of the daughter boards. Seems to me that if you shorted out something, you would find a blown fuse on the daughter board.

I have a button above the door for the door light that does not work. On the backside of the motherboard, the little micro switch for that wire number does not work, so I have a bad daughter board for that one light, the rest of the micro switches on that one board work fine.

Good luck.....

2626

[flyu2there]

That picture up there posted by Tom shows the back of the Motherboard. The daughter boards plug into that on the front...take a good look at the cards from slots 19 to 21....there the ones on the right side of the board looking forward....they control the lights. Each of those daughterboards are also are protected by fuses, 10 amp if memory serves me......
Remember the fuses below the Motherboard check OK with the associated light illuminated; the ones on the daughterboards are different/ hard to see and tough to change without removing the card......contrary to popular opinion, it is tough to burn down a card, especially a fused card and all of them are.
Here we go...
Turn all power off........unplug the bus/no generator and turn off the battery switch.....remove the brass set screw at the bottom of the card (s) and carefully pull the card to check and replace fuses. Several of those cards are interchangable.....check the numbers on the card ( I know it will be written as to what slot it is intended for but the actual card mfg number, you will see that several are the same), a good troubleshoot if a fuse is not the answer.
Failing all of that contact Inner City Electronics in Eugene, Or...they were the original vendors for this system and still stock many components plus they are a titch more saavy than the folks at Country Coach. Finally a word of warning...NEVER BUT NEVER Spray the cards or connectors with electric spray clean...you will hear a cute little plink plink plink as the special CC plastic connectors dissolve...if you must clean something use canned air...take it from one who has heard the plink, plink, plink

After you get all of that done, check the 391 wire back in the engine compartment and your fuel gauge should start working too...

Best

John

[dale farley]

After talking to Country Coach this afternoon, they informed me that I couldn't have fried the board by the door since the voltage is so low. He said I just had something connected wrong.

I thought I had tried every configuration, but as I started to give up for the night, I decided to plug one of the plugs in backwards, and everything went back to normal. I don't see CC logic with this configuration, but at least my panel is now fully functional again. If you ever pull out one of the panels, just make sure you mark the plugs and annotate how they go back. Don't depend on logic when reconnecting the plugs. Thanks for everyone's input.

[flyu2there]

Dale,

Where did you find the guards for the switches? I had a mutt step on the air locker for the door while parked, had a helluva time trying to train him to step on it again to open it........me being outside, of course.:D

Thanks,

John

[dale farley]

John, I ordered them from CC. I think they were like $4 each. It turns out lthat installing them the way they are supposed to be is really not worth the trouble, but I just cut part of the the bottom off and placed them over the button. I will probably glue the edge to hold it in place.

[Darl-Wilson]

Martha and I started to leave Reno on Friday morning for Pahrump but was delayed because my A&E Awning would not retact completely. A conversation with Ron at their tech support helped solve the problem by removing some wires and attaching them to the awning's battery. I replaced everything and was ready to get on the way when I discovered that I have a problem similar to Dale's. Mine seems to be much more wide-spread. None of the 12V switches in the coach function, all of my 12V and 24V is inoperative relating to the conversion work, including but not limited to: BU Camera, Radio/CD Players, all 12V & 24 V lights, Micro Flush toilet (this is a BIG problem!!), CB radio, and 12V lighter plug. Dump Valves and the electric reel motor for the 50 plug and the master heat controller will not work. On the plus side the 110V including TV, 110 plugs all work and the Prevost shell items seem to be unaffected.

I have checked, tripped and reset all of the breakers under the driver's seat, in the rear motor area and by the battery. The board does not have any blown fuses but the 2 far right daughter boards have a red LED light lite. The fuses on those boards are OK. Everything else in that area is green or unlit.

There are two other things that might be suspect besides the awning (I have my doubts about this being the problem). I installed the Guest battery charger a few weeks ago and it works fine. I have always unplugged it prior to changing the coach from shore power to the inverters. This last time I didn't but unplugged it when I discovered this problem. The other suspect area is the wiring for our toad is like spaghetti just before the plug-in terminal. The lights on my lightbar are not working and haven't since we left home yesterday. This should be only related to the chassis and not the conversion so my main suspect is the Guest Charger.

We are now in Tonapah,NV, about 200 miles north of Parhump, and should be there by 1-2 PM PDT. I will be stopping along the way to see if anyone has posted something that might help. My cell is 775-742-0877 but service is a little sketchy out here in the desert.
I talked with Jon W last night and he thinks this problem is unique to CC and suggests that maybe some of the CC members will have a better idea. Actually I should have called CC yesterday but that thought never crossed my mind. Maybe we are to dependant on POG. That may be a good thing!:D

[dale farley]

Darl, The red light on the boards in the ECC just means that current is being used through that board. The first thing I would check is the "Domestic Battery Disconnect" switch and make sure it is not in the off position. If mine gets pushed on the switch by my door, I have to push the one in the first bay to reset the system. Don't know if this is normal, but that is what I have to do. If it is pushed to the "off" position, you will have a condition as you have described. Dale

[Ray Davis]

I kinda agree with Dale's comment. If ALL of your 12v and 24v stuff is inoperative, it's most likely you've tripped your 12/24 disconnect, and didn't realize it?


Ray

[Darl-Wilson]

Darl, The red light on the boards in the ECC just means that current is being used through that board. The first thing I would check is the "Domestic Battery Disconnect" switch and make sure it is not in the off position. If mine gets pushed on the switch by my door, I have to push the one in the first bay to reset the system. Don't know if this is normal, but that is what I have to do. If it is pushed to the "off" position, you will have a condition as you have described. Dale

Dale (and then Ray) had this problem spotted in a minute. Shortly after my post Dale called and left me a VM. (I was out of ph range) A few minutes later he called again catching me in a live area. He gave me what he thought was the solution, I stopped on the gravel shoulder of the road, stepped out of the coach, walked about 2', opened the bay and there was the switch. I tripped it and immediately heard ol' Nagging Nora" tell me my baggage compartment was open. Problem solved in about 1 minute thanks to my "New Best Friend" Dale.;)

This is so common, that POG members help one another daily on this forum and some go the extra mile by making 2 long-distance calls to assure that I got the message. Today it was Dale but tomorrow it will be someone else. I hope it will be me helping you when the time comes.

Thanks Dale and you too Ray. You have no idea how much better you have made the rest of our trip to Pahrump.

We are in Beatty, NV and will be in Pahrump in a couple of hours.

Darl & Martha

[dale farley]

Darl, I'm glad I could help. I think most of us will need help at some point. Have a nice trip.

Paulette and I are leaving for Yellowstone today. We plan to take a week to get there and be there for about 3 months. Dale

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Darl, I'm glad I could help. I think most of us will need help at some point. Have a nice trip.

Paulette and I are leaving for Yellowstone today. We plan to take a week to get there and be there for about 3 months. Dale

Hey you guys, have a wonderful trip, and I hope the job there is all you expect it to be!! :)

[dale farley]

We are in a campground close to the Kansas/Colorado borders tonight and will be going into Colorado in the morning. Should go through Denver some time tomorrow headed to Wyoming.

Plan to stay in Jackson Hole for a few days before going to Yellowstone on Sunday/Monday. So far, we've driven a little over 1300 miles with no problems. I hope it stays that way.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Good to hear from you Dale. Glad it's all going well.

Say if your so inclined, why not post your location changes on Bill's map!!
That way anyone interested can see where you are camped out.
:):)

[dale farley]

Jim, I don't see any way to post anything on Bill's map.

[Tully]

Nice endings is how I like things. This is the number one reason I joined this forum. I am certain if I were out on the road and something did happen, I would pull out the old lap top, zip a few things down and have answers.

Tully

[Darl-Wilson]

Nice endings is how I like things. This is the number one reason I joined this forum. I am certain if I were out on the road and something did happen, I would pull out the old lap top, zip a few things down and have answers.

Tully
That is exactly the scenario I had a few days ago and Dale (Roadrunner) responded with a solution to my problem by phone and online. Then he followed up with another phone call since he got my VM on the initial call. Dale is great but is not the only person in this fantastic group willing to help instantly when a call for help is posted.

Dale, we were in Yellowstone last August and loved the place. We envy you and Paulette. If you get near Reno please let us know. We are now at Pahrump and having a great time at the rally, POG VI.

Have a safe trip.

Chaloupka, my pal, why are you missing this rally? We miss you. It's not to late to jump on a plane to Las Vegas where I will pick you up!!:cool:

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Jim, I don't see any way to post anything on Bill's map.

Go to Bill's map.

Use the +, -, tool in the upper left corner.
Magnify with it and pan to your location by the left click and drag method until you get to your precise location. This usually takes a few tries as the map moves when magnifying and one can not get down real close in one swoop.

When at the point you wish to mark, left click the mouse and a window appears. Fill in the boxes as you see fit and you are done.

Don't forget you may hybridize the road map with an satellite image overlay

Try it it's better than giving a horse an Apple :p ;) :D

[tpr]

Is anyone familiar with country coach's two 27,000btu ceiling ducted air conditioning/heartpumps units used in later model coaches. Are they enough to keep the coach cool in hot humid weather? Will they keep the coach cool enough when under way when using the generator? All opinions welcome.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

TPR,

I don't own a CC, but at one time we were shown a CC with those heat pumps and I got a good look at the installation and controls.

To answer your question you only need to look at the numbers. You have 2 27,000 BTU units. That gives you a total available of 54,000 BTU. I think only one will run from the inverters, but both can be run via the generator. I would guess that current draw is around 25 or 26 amps each so assuming they are on separate legs you can run them on 50 amp shore power and still have at least 15 amps per leg for other purposes. With a generator it is unlikely you will have any limitations on what else can be run. Running off of inverters would be dependent on the size of inverters and what other loads you need to run, like the rerfrigerator.

What does 27,000 BTU mean? That is roughly the equivalent of 2 roof airs or two Cruise Airs. From experience we know on a 45 foot coach two AC units will maintain comfortable temps except on the hottest of days. On very hot days 3 AC units will be required, and possibly four. If the coach is heat soaked it takes all four units to pull the interior temps down into a compfortable range and that seemingly takes forever. On a trip to Washington DC we left for the day with two Cruise Airs on. It reached 96 degrees out that day and when we returned to the coach in the late afternoon the interior temp was about 85. Running all four AC units it was 8:00 before the coach got down into the 70's. The point being that if you like cool temps you need to be agressive in maintaining the cool temps, but the two units will do so as long as you do not let things get out of hand.

Said another way, those two units are the equivalent of the four AC units you might find on another coach.

Here are some thoughts. Like Cruise Airs, those units will pull air through the condenser from down low. If the road surface is hot and radiating high temps when you need cool air the most you will possibly not have it. Roof airs are not affected by heat radiating from the surface of a road. If one unit pukes you are left with the equivalent of two typical AC units. If that remaining one does not work from an inverter, you need to run the generator while driving. With multiple units, such as four roof airs or four Cruise Airs if one pukes you have only lost 25% of your cooling capacity and are unlikely to suffer except on the hottest days.

FWIW the coach we were shown was new, and the guy showing it to me could not make the AC units work. It had a touch screen master control and nothing he did could get cold air to blow on either unit. Until then I did not realize how having four separate AC controls, none of which went through a common control like the Crestron that this particular CC had was a benefit. Whatever had failed had killed his ability to get either AC to work, either off inverters or generator. Off topic, I know, but something to consider.

Put my remarks in perspective because I am a northern guy and I like cold.

If you want to be assured of having cool temps while rolling down the road get a bus with OTR. It puts out about 80,000 BTU. With big windshields and driving southward into the sun I can assure you that you want all the AC you can get.

[mcirco]

I'm not sure about the variations from year to year with Country Coach but my bus has the 2 27,000 BTU units which are controlled by my Crestron system. Each unit is a 2 stage system. Furthermore, my bus has drivers air which provides another 22,000 BTU of cooling. The total is 76,000 BTU, more than enough to keep my bus cool in any conditions I have encountered. In addition, my bus is equiped with an AuraGen system which is a 8.5 KW engine driven AC generation system so there is no need to run the regular generator when traveling down the road.

Miles & Laura Circo
2004 Country Coach XLII D/S