Batteries

[garyde]

So, Ive been wanting to do an inventory on how many and what type of batteries I have on my Coach. Starting with the Chasis Batteries , to Coach Batteries , Generator Battery, zip dee awning battery, Crestron Batterys, 5 or 6 remote control batteries, and so on. So, if anyone has a list , with details please post .

[Jon Wehrenberg]

You forgot the small battery to power the computer should you have a total house battery failure. It is on the LH wall of the electric compartment, top, rear. Needs to be changed every two years.

[Petervs]

There is a battery in your key fob to unlock the door.

There is a memory battery inside the ProDriver if you have one of those.

And hopefully you carry a flashlight or two for emergencies and peering into dark corners. Digital camera?

Then, maybe your hearing aid batteries should go on the list too.

[0533]

I would be very interested in knowing the answer to this question. what is the number and where are each of these batteries housed in the coach. This would be great info. I asked to have all batteries changed out before I left the factory a few weeks ago, am now doubting that it happened beyond the house, gen and detroit batteries.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

The answer to the question of batteries is not only converter specific, but it is often specific to a particular model year or length.

My 97 45 foot Liberty has the chassis batteries where everybody else's is, but my house batteries are immediately forward of that in the small compartment. A five year newer Liberty has the house batteries located in the center of the coach behind the first bay. My 87 Liberty had all batteries located in the engine bay, starting with the chassis batteries in the normal position and the house batteries in racks above them. Three Libertys and three distinctly different locations for the house batteries.

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

There is a battery in your key fob to unlock the door.



Speaking of key Fobs that unlock the door. MINE doesn't work to unlock the door. I replaced the batteries, but still nothing. Where do I look next? Is there a relay of some sort in the drivers door, for the Auto Unlock / Lock? The dang door bell doesn't work either. Are they connected somehow.

The Keyless Entry keypad works great. It unlocks the door, and all bay doors? Man I should have bought a Liberty :( :eek:


Jon, I think you better get to Tn, a week ahead of the planned rally, otherwise your not going to get all my stuff done??? :D


Gary S.

[0533]

The answer to the question of batteries is not only converter specific, but it is often specific to a particular model year or length.

My 97 45 foot Liberty has the chassis batteries where everybody else's is, but my house batteries are immediately forward of that in the small compartment. A five year newer Liberty has the house batteries located in the center of the coach behind the first bay. My 87 Liberty had all batteries located in the engine bay, starting with the chassis batteries in the normal position and the house batteries in racks above them. Three Libertys and three distinctly different locations for the house batteries.
Hi Jon, I new you would not have a simple answer. I certainly understand the convertor and year diferences, and also from coach to coach, upgrades, special features etc. But is there a basic list of batteries, or do we now have them all listed?

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Bruce,

Now you are asking for the moon. At one time the only batteries supplied with the chassis were Delco 1150 and Prevost made it clear that was what they wanted in there. I have seen all different types even in the chassis, including AGM so I have no clue if Prevost even specifies a particular brand or type.

If you have read the posts in the past you will see that even for the same converter, and the same model year different batteries or types are used.

Again to use my 97 as a reference I have 4 8D AGM Lifeline. I have seen the same model year coach as mine with 3 8D gel cell, and when I was at Liberty in their shop I saw them replacing batteries with a different brand (Deka I think).

I replaced a wet cell generator start battery with an Optima, principly because I did not want a wet cell battery venting into my electric bay which is where my genset battery is located.

I have seen some country coach conversions with six 8D batteries.

Looks like you just have to record all the batteries you have, their location, and type, and when the time comes to replace them do the research to determine if there is a better alternative.

With battery prices heading the same direction as diesel fuel I would not be surprised to see buses going back to using very large golf car six volt wet cell batteries, requiring a little bit of new cabling, but giving a lot of capacity for the buck.

[Petervs]

Gary S.
Your key fob issue will require you to get a hold of the alarm manual, the door unlocking is all part of that system. At least it is on my 94. I am sure your converter probably installed some kind of automotive alarm system, and they usually need to have the key fob programmed to match the coach, especially if the battery has died, then it loses it's "mind".

We have a TrekMate alarm, if you happen to have the same I can forward a copy of the manual, but I bet yours is different, since you are quite a bit newer.

[garyde]

Peter is probably right about the key fob, it needs resetting. The door bell should have a transformer if it is connected to a 120 volt source, if no transformer, it should have its own 12 volt fuse.

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Thanks Peter and Gary De, I have asked Panterra if they have any manuals for the locking system? I will also try and check fuses, in a day or two. The wiring diagram I have shows that the bell is wired in with the porch light, which works great, so It seems to be getting power.

Where is the Bell mechanism itself? Anybody have a clue?


And for those New to POG that are in the process of looking @ buss's, Panterra Coach has bent over backwards to help me with a few issues that I have with my new bus.

I say new, it has 92K miles and is 8 years old, but new for me. They are really going out of their way to make me happy with this purchase, and I couldn't be happier. Great company to purchase from. I just wish it wasn't snowing when we picked it up in March. :D

Gary S.

[garyde]

If your Doorbel system is a camera and doorbell, it may be Aiphone, like the Liberty's. If so, your bell or tone is in the intercoms inside the coach. If not, you will be looking for a small louvered plate, or small box recessed or flush on a wall.

[gmcbuffalo]

my bell and intercom system are buried in the cabinet behind the drivers seat. Top attached with velcro. It's fun finding hidden places the converts but things.
GregM

[truk4u]

Gary,

My bell is under the sink kitchen cabinet.

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

I found this on the Prevost Cars Web site, and will try resetting my Key Fobs when I get back to the bus. Technical Manuals, Owner, Other Features

PROGRAMMING KEYLESS TRANSMITTERS :)

To program additional transmitters or replacing a lost or broken transmitter, all transmitters for a vehicle must be programmed at the same time. The receiver assembly module erases all previous transmitters from memory. When the transmitters are programmed or reprogrammed, the receiver assembly module can store up to four transmitters in memory.

To program or reprogram transmitters into the remote/keyless entry system, perform the following steps:

1. Make sure that the anti-theft system is not armed or triggered.

2. Turn the ignition key from OFF to ON five times within ten seconds, ending in ON.
( Refer to chapter 3, “Controls and Instruments” for information on positions of the ignition switch.)
If the system has successfully entered program mode, it will lock then unlock all doors.

3. Press any button on a transmitter. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm that the transmitter has been programmed. Repeat for each other transmitter. If the door locks do not respond for any transmitter, wait a few seconds and press the button again. If the doors still fail to respond, call your service representative.

4. Turn ignition OFF (or wait up to five minutes after step two). To exit program mode. If a new set of transmitters have been programmed or reprogrammed, the remote control system will lock and unlock all doors one last time to confirm.

Hope this works for me, and will help someone else out there.

Tom, I will check for the doorbell to see if it is under my sink, too. Thanks.

[Ray Davis]

Gary,

Great info. Where specifically did you find this on the Prevost website. I've had a heck of a time finding any good info there.

Ray

[rbeecher]

Ray,

I have the complete instructions for our Marathon and would guess yours to be the same. If you would like a copy let me know.

Richard Beecher
2002 Marathon XLII 45
1996 Vogue XL 40 FOR SALE

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Gary, Great info. Where specifically did you find this on the Prevost website. I've had a heck of a time finding any good info there. Ray

Ray, Here are the steps to get you to the beginning of places to look: You will then see how you can put in the information needed for your bus, year, model, and actual Prevost Number for your bus.

Check this out:

http://www.prevostcar.com/cgi-bin/pages.cgi?page=home

then click on Motorhomes, under Quick Links,
then Parts & Services under the blue banner at the top of page,
then Publications in red on the left hand side of the page.
then Technical Publications on the left hand side,
then Click here to enter the site in the middle of the page,
NOW YOU CAN CHOOSE either:
Technical Manuals, or Technical Publications, Wiring Diagrams or Pneumatic Diagrams. You will have to play around a little bit to find what you are looking for, but I think it is all there.

Just fill in the info on the left hand side columns and play around till you start finding the various publications, drawings or info that you are looking for. Don't forget you are reseraching a MTH not just a bus. The publications will come up in the center of your page and when you click on them, they will open up, to view, just like a book. WAY COOL, These darn computers, arent' they somethun ?


Jon W. would you like to add anything ? I am sure I have forgotten something, :o

Hope this helps? It helped me when the Prevost guy walked me through how to navigate the publications. I HOPE this is what you wanted ? !

Gary S.

[Ray Davis]

Richard

Thank you for the offer. Anything you have to share would be great to add to my "library".

Gary, thank you for the instructions. I'll be checking it out shortly!

Ray

[rbeecher]

Ray,

I'll check on them this weekend and let you know when I have them in my hands.

Richard

[Ray Davis]

Wonderful. Thanks!

[rfoster]

I use my coach often - generally every 2 weeks. My chassis batteries have never failed or even acted weak. I have a Liberty with on board engine battery charger and it stays powered up 99 percent of the time.- batteries should be optimally charged - right? Today I turned the key and nothing but red lights, the speedometer moved to 10 mph. Whats up with this? I retrieve my All Star Battery Tester (see Mangos prevoman.com tool list) and after unhooking the terminals on the batteries three out of four fail the test and indicate a dead cell in 3 out of 4 batteries. These batteries have been in the coach since 05, this is early 08. I found it odd that 3 out of four die in the same week? Can anyone shed light on this issue. The batteries were not dry or cooked or disfigured in any way. They were in need of water but not what I would consider dangerously low.

I might also add of that I have replaced more car batteries this year than I have in the previous 13 years. Is this a global warming thing?t

[garyde]

Hi Roger. You don't want to run your trickle charger full time as it will boil the batteries, especiallly if a cell is weak or if you have low water. Typically, a charge for an hour or two should be enough. I accidently left my charger on with low water in batteries and it fried them.

[truk4u]

King,

Gary brings up a really good point. I think your charger is a single stage and socks the juice to your batteries. The Quests Chargers we have been installing are 3 stage and end up in float mode at the end of the charging cycle. You can leave this charger on full time with no worries.

[rfoster]

Gary and Truk: Thanks for the feedback. I have been leaving the charger breaker in the on position thinking that it would kick into float or trickle when the batteries were charged sufficiently. I will this afternoon perform some gyrations to see just exactly what kind of charger I have while installing the new batteries. There could be a quest Charger in my future.

[Jeff Bayley]

Peter-

This is Jeff who you sent the Trek Mate manual to (thank you again).

I saw your post on batteries. You referenced the battery in the Pro Driver. I didn't know that had one. My Pro Driver never seemed to function right for the first 3 years I had the bus but it was never important enough for me to fuss with it. Then, a few months ago, I had an erratic idle problem. The coach idled like it wasn't firing on all the cylinders. After a bunch of looking in the wrong place by the techs (as usual) a Detroit tech disconnected the Pro Driver from the dash and the problem went away. They didn't say anything about replacing the battery but I suppose doing that could be useful before buying a new Pro Driver (don't know how much they cost and I also DON"T have a manual for it either incidentally).

[MangoMike]

Fast Roger,

I had one cell go bad in one of the chassis batteries. It seemed that this triggered the Quest charger to go bulk mode. As a result the guys working down in the bus barn called me to say that the bus was stinkin'. Thinking another Taco Tour was in the works I headed down to check things out. The batteries had been cooking on bulk with an extreme smell of sulfer. Batteries were installed in 2004.

it looks like one bad battery can bring the group down.

Mike

[Coloradobus]

You're right Mike,
One battery can do the others in. 4 days after Katrina hit found us in Jackson Mississippi with a rotton egg smell and battery balance light On.
Turns out one battery had a dead cell, and everyone else began to cook.
We were lucky to find an Exide dealer who was open, had power, and employees. However, we had to install them ourselves for they were closing and that area around Jackson was under marshall law at the time. Whew!
We installed them and got out of there.

[rfoster]

As a follow thru on the battery charger, my Liberty is equipped with a Magnatek 900 charger. Searching thru the parts manuals that I have I found a small tri folded pamplet from Magnetek and guess what-- IT STATES "Charge the batteries about 10 hours per month to avoid overcharging when vehicle is in storage." Not necessary to charge chassis batteries if used on a regular basis.

Having made this discovery I have obviously been overcharging my batteries. Thanks for the feed back from all.

Now with Mango's recent rotten egg adventure- whats a guy to do - the Quest Charger sounds like if you get a dead cell, it will turn up the heat (go to bulk) and cook the rest of batteries? Buy a timer?

[truk4u]

King,

Any charger will continue to pump the juice to the batteries, not knowing there is dead cell or two sucking the life out of the others. It's an easy answer with the Guest, if the red light is on for a prolonged time, you have a problem. I check mine after about 24hrs from turning it on to make sure it's in float (green light). Mango never looks in his engine compartment, he's too busy repairing whiskey dents.:rolleyes:

[0533]

King,

Any charger will continue to pump the juice to the batteries, not knowing there is dead cell or two sucking the life out of the others. It's an easy answer with the Guest, if the red light is on for a prolonged time, you have a problem. I check mine after about 24hrs from turning it on to make sure it's in float (green light). Mango never looks in his engine compartment, he's too busy repairing whiskey dents.:rolleyes:
Hello Tom,

I have a question. When you are speaking of charging your batteries, you are talking about a separate charger?

I have a 1999 Marathon with 2 4K invertors, AGM Jell Cell batteries that stay charged using the invertors with either shore or Genset power source. I have no other way to charge the batteries.

Why does one need to charge the batteries using a charger?? I leave my coach plugged into shore power, with the frig, air set to low a few other electronic items on and all seems fine. What am I missing here, should I be considering something else??

How can I monitor the AGM's other then with the invertor monitor??

I have read on this forum about batteries failing but mostly because of low fluid levels, cooked. What can happen to the AGM's and doesn't the invertor monitor how much charge is required? batteries like all else are expensive and would sure like to ride these 2007 ones for a while.

Thanks,

Bruce

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Bruce, I think the battery charger the guys are talking about are primarily for keeping the START batteries charged, not charging the HOUSE batteries.

I have a timer switch on my start battery charger that I can turn on when I get in the bus, if I haven't been in it for a week or two, to get the (4) start batteries topped off to the correct charge. This charger is in the engine bay with the start batteries. I forget the name of it, but most of the busess have some sort of battery charger system.

Now having said that, my start batteries were only 13 months old, when I bought the bus back in March of this year, and I had to replace all of them at the POG V rally in Sevierville. Of course with help from lots of guys, both POGGERS and two specific convertors, Parliament and Panterra. They all were tremendous help to me.

They suspected that because the bus had been for sale for over a year, it didn't get the use or attention that it needed, after the batteries were installed and thus the batteries just drained down and couldn't hold the proper charge. They tested bad, so I replaced all 4 of them.

Hope this helps.

Gary S.

[0533]

Bruce, I think the battery charger the guys are talking about are primarily for keeping the START batteries charged, not charging the HOUSE batteries.

I have a timer switch on my start battery charger that I can turn on when I get in the bus, if I haven't been in it for a week or two, to get the (4) start batteries topped off to the correct charge. This charger is in the engine bay with the start batteries. I forget the name of it, but most of the busess have some sort of battery charger system.

Now having said that, my start batteries were only 13 months old, when I bought the bus back in March of this year, and I had to replace all of them at the POG V rally in Sevierville. Of course with help from lots of guys, both POGGERS and two specific convertors, Parliament and Panterra. They all were tremendous help to me.

They suspected that because the bus had been for sale for over a year, it didn't get the use or attention that it needed, after the batteries were installed and thus the batteries just drained down and couldn't hold the proper charge. They tested bad, so I replaced all 4 of them.

Hope this helps.

Gary S.
Thanks Gary,

I think I better understand this now. I had to replace all four of mine when I purchased my bus. It had set for a while as well.

I do still wonder about one thing that I have noticed on my bus while running the genset underway. I have recently noticed a red light on my dash comes on indicating a battery drain when the genset is running. When its off there is no light and the battery voltage is fine, when its on the voltage starts to drop a little, from 28/29 down to about 25 or so. Does anyone know why this happens or has experienced this on their coaches?

Thanks,

Bruce

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

Bruce could the light just be telling you the genset is operational?

Find the light in the owners manual or online on the prevost site, and see just what that light indicates? Maybe it is just letting you know the genset is running?

Do you have a TEST Dash light button on your dash? Push this button and all of the dash indicator lights turn on, so you can make sure all "idiot" lights are at least functioning and it gives you more of an opportunity to see what each light represents.


Gary S.

[0533]

Bruce could the light just be telling you the genset is operational?

Find the light in the owners manual or online on the prevost site, and see just what that light indicates? Maybe it is just letting you know the genset is running?

Do you have a TEST Dash light button on your dash? Push this button and all of the dash indicator lights turn on, so you can make sure all "idiot" lights are at least functioning and it gives you more of an opportunity to see what each light represents.


Gary S.
It shows a battery symbol. I will check. I did not know about the dash idiot light test, maybe I am the idiot?

Bruce

[Gary & Peggy Stevens]

It shows a battery symbol. I will check. I did not know about the dash idiot light test, maybe I am the idiot?

Bruce

Bruce, I was not infering you were anything other than a questioning newbie, like myself. I was merely bringing the lights to your attention.

Hope you weren't offended? :confused: :(

Now back to the battery light coming on. Does the battery light on the dash ever go out while the bus is running? Maybe it is in a constant state of charging? I better let this get answered by someone that knows the answer, cause I may just be confusing the issue. Sorry !

Gary S.

[0533]

Bruce, I was not infering you were anything other than a questioning newbie, like myself. I was merely bringing the lights to your attention.

Hope you weren't offended? :confused: :(

Now back to the battery light coming on. Does the battery light on the dash ever go out while the bus is running? Maybe it is in a constant state of charging? I better let this get answered by someone that knows the answer, cause I may just be confusing the issue. Sorry !

Gary S.
I was making fun of myself Gary. I am always learning about this stuff and never seem to learn fast enough. The idiot light makes sense, and I had wondered about it.

The battery light only comes on when the genset is operating. I initially thought it was simply charging the bus batteries when it came on, but I noticed that the voltage was dropping on the dash voltage meter when the genset was running. My concern is that there is some type of short or wiring issues here. I was hoping that the genset was charging the bus batteries but do not actually know.

[rfoster]

Bruce and Gary:

I want to confirm that in my case I was talking about the chassis batteries, not the house AGMs. The AGMs are charged by the inverters.

I had assumed that my chassis/engine battery charger was smart and would change to a trickle charge when the house batteries were full, - as evidenced by this past week and ultimately digging up the chargers manufacturer's owners manual - I have learned that the charger needs to be turned on only for about 10 hours a month if the bus is in storage. If the bus is used then the batteries are charged from the engine and the auxillary charger does not to be used. I had been leaving the charger on and ultimately ruined the chassis batteries by overcharging.

Education cost.

[0533]

Bruce and Gary:

I want to confirm that in my case I was talking about the chassis batteries, not the house AGMs. The AGMs are charged by the inverters.

I had assumed that my chassis/engine battery charger was smart and would change to a trickle charge when the house batteries were full, - as evidenced by this past week and ultimately digging up the chargers manufacturer's owners manual - I have learned that the charger needs to be turned on only for about 10 hours a month if the bus is in storage. If the bus is used then the batteries are charged from the engine and the auxillary charger does not to be used. I had been leaving the charger on and ultimately ruined the chassis batteries by overcharging.

Education cost.
Thanks Roger,

I am talking about the chassis batteries now that I fully understand the thread.

My question on this is can the chassis charger be more like the invertor is to the house, only charge when the house batteries/chassis need it, in other words be hooked up at all times to an external power supply but only come on when it senses a need? This is how my boats have been charged while at the dock, plugged in to shore power, but charging as needed.

So to summarize, you guys are saying that the chassis batteries do not get any charge from the invertors at all at anytime. The only way the chassis batteries will receive a charge is if the coach is operating or if you use a separate charger? I have none.

[rfoster]

Bruce --this is were the Quest Charger comes in to play that Truk suggested. He has installed one on his bus, Mango has one, and I think Phorner has one as well. They are designed to be three stage, from bulk to float (or trickle). My coach is a 97 vintage and the Quest charger must be from a later more modern era. May have to get one some time in the future.

[0533]

Bruce --this is were the Quest Charger comes in to play that Truk suggested. He has installed one on his bus, Mango has one, and I think Phorner has one as well. They are designed to be three stage, from bulk to float (or trickle). My coach is a 97 vintage and the Quest charger must be from a later more modern era. May have to get one some time in the future.
Is this the unit? See link.

http://www.monstermarketplace.com/Sports/Landing4424a5295.html

If so, where would you install it and where would it fit inline with the batteries?

Bruce

[truk4u]

Bruce,

I think you already figured out I was referring to the chassis charger. I doubt you have one and you may want to think about adding a Guest Charger. When your running, your 270 amp alternator is charging the house and the chassis. You have 2 equalizers, one for the house and one for the chassis. I think your getting a battery balance light on the dash and something is wrong. Your Marathon is 24 volt and I'm not sure if the dash light is telling you there is a chassis voltage problem or house voltage problem. My 97 had the light, but I never had any issues. Check your manuals and determine what the light is telling you. It's really hard to narrow it down with knowing the function of the light.

The only time your chassis batteries are being charged is when the engine is running. Your Inverters take care of the house, but have no charge function for the chassis.

Let us know what the light means?

[MangoMike]

2639


Bruce this is the one we're using.


http://www.amazon.com/Guest-2611A-Ba.../dp/B000NHZV1S


From Amazon

[MangoMike]

2640

In the Liberty mounted on the bulkhead above the chassis batteries.

[0533]

2640

In the Liberty mounted on the bulkhead above the chassis batteries.
Thanks Tom and Mango.

I will figure out which light it is and get that straight before installing the charger.

Bruce

[JIM KELLER]

Thanks Gary,

I think I better understand this now. I had to replace all four of mine when I purchased my bus. It had set for a while as well.

I do still wonder about one thing that I have noticed on my bus while running the genset underway. I have recently noticed a red light on my dash comes on indicating a battery drain when the genset is running. When its off there is no light and the battery voltage is fine, when its on the voltage starts to drop a little, from 28/29 down to about 25 or so. Does anyone know why this happens or has experienced this on their coaches?

Thanks,

Bruce

Bruce, I read this post and have a comment on your voltage. I think a reading of 28 to 29 volts on a 24 volt system is too high. Perhaps this voltage is just a "surface charge" and everything is o.k. as long as the reading drops to around 25 volts during normal operation.

[0533]

Bruce, I read this post and have a comment on your voltage. I think a reading of 28 to 29 volts on a 24 volt system is too high. Perhaps this voltage is just a "surface charge" and everything is o.k. as long as the reading drops to around 25 volts during normal operation.
Thats interesting Jim.

The voltage meter on the dash runs high, could this simply be the gauge its self??

The red light that comes on the dash shows a picture of a battery (I am 250 miles from the coach and the prevost manuals) and only comes on when the generator is running when the Bus is operational, running down the road.

The voltage drops to about 25 volts. Why would it drop? It does not go below 25 volts. I thought the light was detecting a voltage drop, or discharge.

My plan is to have the Chassis batteries (all new) looked at to see if there might be a problem, and also have the Genset wiring inspected, as its my understanding that the genset battery will charge both the house and chassis batteries when operational????

The big question is what causes an overvoltage (if meter is correct) and what causes a discharge when the genset is on?? Is or could the two be related?

[truk4u]

Bruce,

Once again.... Unless someone added a chassis charger, the only way your chassis gets charged is running the engine. It DOES NOT charge off the gen or shore power. This is assuming you have one big 24v alternator.

You have to identify the warning light to determine if it's house or chassis! Your telling us voltage, is that the dash engine voltage or a house gauge? 25v for the engine gauge is low, while running it should read 26+.

[JIM KELLER]

Thats interesting Jim.

The voltage meter on the dash runs high, could this simply be the gauge its self??

The red light that comes on the dash shows a picture of a battery (I am 250 miles from the coach and the prevost manuals) and only comes on when the generator is running when the Bus is operational, running down the road.

The voltage drops to about 25 volts. Why would it drop? It does not go below 25 volts. I thought the light was detecting a voltage drop, or discharge.

My plan is to have the Chassis batteries (all new) looked at to see if there might be a problem, and also have the Genset wiring inspected, as its my understanding that the genset battery will charge both the house and chassis batteries when operational????

The big question is what causes an overvoltage (if meter is correct) and what causes a discharge when the genset is on?? Is or could the two be related?

" What causes an overvoltage [ if the meter is correct.] Well, several things could cause this problem. One bad cell in a battery as previously discussed could be a problem. A regulated charging system detects a weakness in a battery cell and tries to make up for that weakness by overcharging. Consequently the other batteries in the system suffer from the excess voltage and die a premature death.

" What causes a discharge when the genset is on." Prehaps there is no discharge. 24 to 25 volts seems like a normal operating range. Like Tom said, find out what the light on your dash means and let us know.

The best way to understand your electrical system is to start with a hand held meter. Record the voltage of all systems with the bus unpluged from shore power. Get a reading on the genset battery, the house batteries and the chassis batteries. Then, one by one start individual systems up and check the readings. Example, plug in then unplug. Start the engine then shut it down. Start the generator then shut it down. By isolating the systems you will get a better handle on what is going on and make it easier for someone like Jon or Tom to take over and help you.

[0533]

" What causes an overvoltage [ if the meter is correct.] Well, several things could cause this problem. One bad cell in a battery as previously discussed could be a problem. A regulated charging system detects a weakness in a battery cell and tries to make up for that weakness by overcharging. Consequently the other batteries in the system suffer from the excess voltage and die a premature death.

" What causes a discharge when the genset is on." Prehaps there is no discharge. 24 to 25 volts seems like a normal operating range. Like Tom said, find out what the light on your dash means and let us know.

The best way to understand your electrical system is to start with a hand held meter. Record the voltage of all systems with the bus unpluged from shore power. Get a reading on the genset battery, the house batteries and the chassis batteries. Then, one by one start individual systems up and check the readings. Example, plug in then unplug. Start the engine then shut it down. Start the generator then shut it down. By isolating the systems you will get a better handle on what is going on and make it easier for someone like Jon or Tom to take over and help you.
Excellent plan Jim, It sounds like you really have a handle on these types of nagging electrical problems.

Thanks again,

Bruce

[phorner]

I ended up with an over voltage problem when the bus was running. Tom and I recorded 15 plus volts at my 12 volt outlet on the dash.

Turned out to be an alternator that was going bad. New alternator and the problem was resolved.... along with a much lighter wallet.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

As a general rule I occasionally monitor my voltages directly at the batteries.

I have found that the on-board gauges are slightly incorrect, possibly because of the distance between the gauges and the batteries.

Our batteries for both the house and chassis have the ability to make a good trip into a nightmare and have done so on my previous coach. I now know having learned the hard way that if the batteries are checked while the bus is running, while being charged, after resting with no loads overnight, and after having a load applied for a while I can usually know one or more are going bad, or that they are OK.

The key is to check them regularly and after a while you will know what the normal reading is and when a reading is out of the norm it gives you an opportunity to investigate and correct a problem prior to a trip.

[Apeman]

Great info here - would never have found these docs without your guidance! I'm wondering, though - when searching for docs specific to my coach, would I search by "finished" year- in our case 2007, or chassis manufactured year - in our case June 2005?
Clay Miller


Ray, Here are the steps to get you to the beginning of places to look: You will then see how you can put in the information needed for your bus, year, model, and actual Prevost Number for your bus.

Check this out:

http://www.prevostcar.com/cgi-bin/pages.cgi?page=home

then click on Motorhomes, under Quick Links,
then Parts & Services under the blue banner at the top of page,
then Publications in red on the left hand side of the page.
then Technical Publications on the left hand side,
then Click here to enter the site in the middle of the page,
NOW YOU CAN CHOOSE either:
Technical Manuals, or Technical Publications, Wiring Diagrams or Pneumatic Diagrams. You will have to play around a little bit to find what you are looking for, but I think it is all there.

Just fill in the info on the left hand side columns and play around till you start finding the various publications, drawings or info that you are looking for. Don't forget you are reseraching a MTH not just a bus. The publications will come up in the center of your page and when you click on them, they will open up, to view, just like a book. WAY COOL, These darn computers, arent' they somethun ?


Jon W. would you like to add anything ? I am sure I have forgotten something, :o

Hope this helps? It helped me when the Prevost guy walked me through how to navigate the publications. I HOPE this is what you wanted ? !

Gary S.

[Ray Davis]

Welcome Apeman,

When dealing with the Prevost site, and when getting your coach serviced, ordering parts etc, always give them the year of the coach, as indicated by the VIN number. You've indicated 2005, so that's what you would use.

To verify, the 8th digit back from the right side of the VIN should then be a 5.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicle_Identification_Number will explain this. If you do a google seach for "vehicle VIN decode", you'll find several sites that you can simply enter your VIN, and they will spit out the details.


Ray

[phorner]

Prevost Car cares only about the year they manufactured your chassis. Usually, they will want your VIN number to correctly identify parts.

Make sure you always use the "chassis year" when dealing with Prevost and you should be OK.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Specifically the only meaningful numbers to the service techs or parts folks is the 8th number from the right and the 4 last digits.

My number is T-5811. Yours would be 5-XXXX