View Full Version : Avoid frozen pipes
lloyd&pamela
03-12-2008, 08:46 PM
For the next 2.5 weeks the bus will be parked here in Nova Scotia. To avoid frozen pipes, what should we keep running.
The bus is plugged into 15 amp house connection. I currently have the galley webasto set to 55 degrees. I have the basement heater set above freezing.
How much diesel will it use over the 2.5 weeks with freezing temperatures most days?
Also, I purchased two digital thermostats to replace the two White-??? thermostats that control the CC/Webasto system. Is there any reason I should not instal them?
Thanks.
dalej
03-12-2008, 09:06 PM
Lloyd, you will be fine. The wabasto uses a quart an hour but it won't all the time. I would have the diesel tank at least half full, just in case.
If you put a little electric heater in the bay and set it on low that might be enough.
On the thermostats, as long as they match you will be fine. You just need a simple on/off.
Jon Wehrenberg
03-12-2008, 09:15 PM
There are a few ways you can go to deal with this. What you are doing is one approach. Dale suggests another, but your coach has the water spread amongst two bays so that may require a pair of heaters and soon you are pushing the limit on a 15 amp circuit.
Another option is to drain it down completely. If you are owrking on the water system anyway, take the trouble to completely drain it, including the lines upstairs by opening all valves and by draining the P traps.
Denny
03-12-2008, 09:20 PM
Lloyd,
When I brought my bus home it had to sit out for most of the Ohio winter until my barn was finished. I had it plugged into a 50 amp outlet so power was not a concern. If there is any way you can boost your power to the bus I would recommend it.
I kept the inside, front and rear temps set at 55. I did not have a problem topside.
For the basement, I would suggest that you turn the temp up much higher than "above freezing". I had mine set around 50 and it froze in -20 wind chill weather. The problem areas were the faucet between the bay door and the interior wall and the pipes just inside that wall. The faucet split and one connection broke just inside the wall. This area immediately on either side of the wall is a very critical area. Fortunately it was not to much of a problem to fix.
The basement thermostat is inside the wall so the temp on the outside of the wall and just inside of the wall can be significantly lower since the heaters are more towards the center of the coach. Keeping the temps up will cost a little more in fuel but fuel is still less than buying a new faucet ($350 from Country Coach) and the other plumbing items that you will need to repair.
I was very fortunate that my problems were easy to get at and I did not have to tear half of the basement apart to get at them.
lloyd&pamela
03-12-2008, 09:25 PM
I drained all the pipes and tanks this morning while AI replace the kitchen faucet. I was going to redo all the pipes in the plumbing bay, but decided after talk with Dale to wait until after th POG rally in TN and see first hand what he did on his coach. I would like to redo the entire plumbing area. It is poorly conceived.
After installing the new kitchen faucet and shower head. I refilled the system to test everything.
I plugged the one leaking selinoid with a 1/2 inch brass plug. I will repair or replace the selinoid later when I redo the plumbing.
I could just empty it all tomorrow and refill later.
I assume I will not have to prime the system since it all came back fine today, is that correct?
Jon Wehrenberg
03-12-2008, 09:42 PM
The pumps are self priming and can run dry without damage. There will be no problem there.
Just make sure everything is drained and if possible blow air through the faucets upstairs to move any water that may be in a low spot.
And since I am a chicken, I would still keep some heat in it.
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