Keepin' things clean...

[phorner]

At the Florida Mini POG Rally, Jon brought it to my attention that I should check out my plumbing to determine if my fresh water supply was protected from the toilet inlet supply.

A quick inspection revealed that, under the right circumstances, it would be possible to either drain by gravity or back-siphonage the water in the toilet bowl into the water pump and/or the fresh water tank. There was nothing protecting the fresh water supply from the potential source of contamination.

So, it was a relatively easy task to install a check valve between the pump discharge and the flexible plumbing connection to the toilet. A picture of my installation is attached. For maximum protection, a double check valve should be installed.

Thanks, Jon for the heads-up....

[tdelorme]

Nice job, Paul. Next rally Jon will tell you to polish the brass and the copper in the background of the picture. Does the toilet still work as before? I need to do the same job. Well done.

[phorner]

Yes, the toilet works fine, just as before.

And, there was considerable pressure, since a mistake made here that would compromise the function or availability of this device would not be easily forgiven or forgotten by my bride....if you know what I mean...

[win42]

Paul: Is that the new check valve shown between the two brass elbows?

I just had to pull my pump out and disasemble it because it would not turn, but the motor was trying to run. We found a spring loaded ceramic collar that holds tension on the shaft seal had a small chip out of it and the chip had the pump impellers frozen. We removed the chip reassembled the pump and it runs fine.

[phorner]

Yes, Harry, the check valve is between the 2 elbows. Installation also required a brass elbow and 2 brass close nipples, all 1" plumbing.

The original configuration had the flexible toilet supply line attached to a plastic barbed-end connector which was attached to the brass elbow on top of the pump.

I removed the plastic barbed-end connector and assembled the check valve, 2 nipples and 1 elbow as an assembly using a vice and pipe wrench.

Lastly, the plastic barbed-end connector was attached to the elbow of the new check valve assembly, and the whole assembly then threaded onto the original elbow at the top of the pump. Trim and attach the flexible supply line to the barbed-end connector, and it's complete.

[win42]

Paul: Thanks for the picture and the fitting list, it will make an easy installation for me. My piping is identical to yours. Not suprising though we have identical year coach's. Did the knuckle head plumber at Liberty do the same lousy job of hiding the fresh water inlet hand valve where it is hard to reach and operate. I did not expect that from Liberty.

Jon: Thank you for pointing out the missing check valve for us. I have not gotten the inlet water valve moved yet. It is not an easy change to make because it involves cutting hard piping. ( no Unions ) Whine, whine whine.
The sunshine here in Tucson turned to liquid yesterday and toiday. It should be back in the 70's and sunshine tomorrow. The snow on the mountains is pretty though.

[dalej]

Harry are you sitting at Beaudry RV?

[win42]

Dale J : No , Beaudry is having a 400 coach C.C. rally there. We are at Far Horizon RV Park Located on Pantano Rd. between Broadway and Speedway. Nice large park on the east side of town. Call mme on the cell.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Yes, Harry, the check valve is between the 2 elbows. Installation also required a brass elbow and 2 brass close nipples, all 1" plumbing.

The original configuration had the flexible toilet supply line attached to a plastic barbed-end connector which was attached to the brass elbow on top of the pump.

I removed the plastic barbed-end connector and assembled the check valve, 2 nipples and 1 elbow as an assembly using a vice and pipe wrench.

Lastly, the plastic barbed-end connector was attached to the elbow of the new check valve assembly, and the whole assembly then threaded onto the original elbow at the top of the pump. Trim and attach the flexible supply line to the barbed-end connector, and it's complete.

Great Job Paul! It looks better than from the converter.
By the way where did you mount the vise?
Is it on the bus or do you have a building on your lot?

[phorner]

We don't have a building, and there's no vise in the bus. So, I was lucky enough to "borrow" the use of one for a few minutes. Sure made the assembly of the fittings a lot easier.

Now, for the rest of the story, no good deed goes unpunished.

Having removed the water filters in order to better access the plumbing involved, naturally, a small amount of water spilled onto the floor of the compartment.

Having completed the installation of the check valve assembly, I decided to lift out the Culligan reverse osmosis water conditioner in order to clean up underneath and behind it. Naturally, as I was re-installing the R/O system, 3 of the 4 water connections decided to leak. These are simple "push on" connectors. Of course, it was a Saturday morning. To make it more of a challenge, the connections are all on the "back side" of the unit and can't be seen without using a mirror.

A quick internet search for a manual on our system, and a call to the nearest Culligan repair center, suggested that the O-ring seals in the body of the unit were probably failing to seal due to age.

And for only $175 they would come out and make an emergency repair.

After a couple of minutes discussing this with the Culligan guy, he said "oh yeah, yours' must be in a Liberty Coach. I know exactly what you're talking about".

He then gave me the correct numbers for the suspect O-rings and told me exactly where to find them in Home Depot. He further gave me his tips for removal, lubrication and replacement, suggesting the tools required.

The last thing I usually want to do is make a visit to Home Depot on a Saturday morning, (a task strictly for the novice) but 20 minutes and a couple of dollars later, all 4 O-rings were replaced, the Culligan system re-installed and nary a drip to be found.

By then, the bay floor was dry anyway .........

[win42]

OK Paul cough up the numbers on the O rings etch. I'll be doing the same routine soon. I have the Culligan replacement numbers for the cartriges.
Where are we going next on the repairs. I like you taking the lead, keep up the good work.
Thanks

[dreamchasers]

I second the request for the o'ring numbers.

Thanks,

Hector

[phorner]

For those just itchin' to play plumber, the 1/4" I.D. o-rings are a #78 and the 3/8" I.D. o-rings are a #8.

The #78 is also part #96715 and the #8 is also part #96725. Both are by Danco. They come in a package of 10, so this will probably be a lifetime supply.

To remove the old ones, after shutting off the water pressure, depress the collar around the plastic tubing toward the body of the Culligan unit and pull the plastic tubing out. My supply and return lines were identified with a band of colored tape, so I put a dot of the same color on the Culligan unit to match up where they were to be replaced. After all four lines are removed, it's easy to take the entire unit to a table for further inspection and repair.

Once the tubing has been removed, the plastic collars can be gently pulled out of the body. I used a very small screw driver to start them out with a gentle pry. Once the collars are out, the o-rings will be visible.

At the recommendation of the Culligan guy, I used a very small crochet needle to pull out the old o-rings. The little hook at the end of the needle worked perfectly. He also suggested lubricating the new ones with either silicone spray or a very light coating of vaseline. I placed a small dab of vaseline on my fingers and massaged the lubricant into the o-ring, wiping off any excess.

Using the tiny screw driver, I seated the lubricated o-rings in their respective places. I then inspected the plastic collars to make sure that the tiny metal "teeth" that grip the tubing looked OK. Mine were fine, and I just popped them back into place.

Lastly, I checked the ends of the plastic tubing. The ends need to be cut as square as possible in order for the tubing to be pushed in far enough to seat properly. It's also a good time to make sure that the metal teeth in the plastic collars haven't scored the tubing too much. I ended up trimming one line to achieve a better cut end.

Just push the collar against the body of the Culligan unit and insert the the tubing until it stops. You should feel just the slightest resistance as the tubing passes the new o-ring and then will seat against the body.

Turn on the water pressure, and all should be leak-free. It took me quite some time to bleed all of the air out of the line that serves the refrigerator, but after several glasses of water, all was normal.

Happy plumbing....

[win42]

Thanks Paul you did a great job from beginning to end. Please let us know what your next project will be so we can be prepared. I know it's tough working with the Lewster siting on a stool looking over your shoulder, at least he loaned you his crochet needle.

[Darl-Wilson]

Harry, I can see the "Incoming" rounds being prepared by "The Lewster" already. Get 'em Lew, he deserves it. Crochet needle indeed!

[lewpopp]

Paul possibly used his own crochet needle because I was polishing mine at the time.

Believe it ir not, I have every size on hand due to my wife's talents.

That long post by Paul taught us all something worthwhile, not like Jeff Bayley's epistles where he rambles on and on. Sorry Jeff.