The Good, the Bad the Webasto ....

[Ray Davis]

Ken Zittrer (Bluevost) and I spent about 5 hours today trying to solve a Webasto problem that has us both stumped. I'm looking for help from the collective brain trust!

A couple of weeks ago I noticed a diesel leak back near the right side of the engine compartment. I put a drip pan under the bus as I didn't have time to deal with it. Yesterday when I went to the bus, there had to be at least a quart, perhaps a half gallon of diesel in the pan. OK, it's time to do something.

It's defininately the Webasto which is leaking, but Ken and I tried everything we could think of, but it's still leaking. Here's the pertinent (and perhaps not so pertinent) details, which will helpfully lead us in the right direction.

1. fuel leak seems to be in the incoming fuel line.
2. fuel comes in through a fuel filter (which doesn't appear to have any "filter element" inside).
3. It connects into the port labled "S".
4. There is another port labled "R", which has a fuel line, which exits out the side of the unit and heads into the engine area. Not sure where. This line doesn't appear to be leaking, although it was wet.

5. We replaced the incoming fuel line (from fuel filter forward), and also replaced the hose clamp. Still no luck.

6. It was noticed that when we opened the unit, that the square grommit which it used around the fuel inlets was crushed in some previous repair attempt (previous owner).

7. We did our best to fix up the crushed gromit, adjusted the electrodes, and replaced unit.

8. Unit still leaks at an alarming rate (5-10 drips per minute, worse when unit is fired up).

9. When unit fires up, it runs, but blows a LOT of white smoke, but otherwise seems fully functional.

We're hoping something above will be a clue to someone. The fuel line was 1/4 inch standard fuel line. We have no clue where the other line goes to/from. It's not clear whether it's another fuel in, or not?

We spent nearly 5 hours on this, having the unit apart 4 times. Everything is tightened as best we could, but almost immediately after buttoning up, it's dripping. If we fire it up, it starts dripping profusely.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Ray

[Jon Wehrenberg]

I believe S is the supply, and R is the return. Fuel not used by the Webasto returns to the fuel tank.

Is there any way to photo the specific area where it is leaking?

Also, has the unit been cleaned 100% so the origin of the leak, not where first visible to you now, is evident.

If you need to, disconnect the fuel supply and return lines and plug them while you do what is necessary to make sure there is zero fuel, dirt, wet areas etc. Tracing a leak is impossible unless you can verify the source which may be some distance away from where you think it is.

[garyde]

Hi Ray. I would disconnect both lines and cap with a screw or bolt. If leak has stopped, reconnect one line and check again, if no leak , connect the other line. If it begins to leak, that line is leaking or your port is damaged.

[Ray Davis]

We are sure it's the supply line that is leaking. What's not clear is whether or not it's leaking from the hose itself (getting by the clamp), or it's somehow leaking further up the inlet nipple, and dripping back down onto the hose.

We can't tell that when the burner unit is removed from the combustion chamber. There was evidence of some fuel inside the burner unit, down where the S and R lines enter.

Once cleaned, and simply "sitting", it drips slowly. It's after the unit is turned on that it really begins to go.

Visually it looks like fuel is just getting around the hose clamp on the S side. But, we've cranked that down like crazy, replaced the hose and clamp. I'm wondering if that inlet has perhaps been damaged, and won't allow a seal?

Ray

PS: is the ton of white smoke somehow related to this problem? Does that indicate too much fuel?

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

We are sure it's the supply line that is leaking. What's not clear is whether or not it's leaking from the hose itself (getting by the clamp), or it's somehow leaking further up the inlet nipple, and dripping back down onto the hose.

We can't tell that when the burner unit is removed from the combustion chamber. There was evidence of some fuel inside the burner unit, down where the S and R lines enter.

Once cleaned, and simply "sitting", it drips slowly. It's after the unit is turned on that it really begins to go.

Visually it looks like fuel is just getting around the hose clamp on the S side. But, we've cranked that down like crazy, replaced the hose and clamp. I'm wondering if that inlet has perhaps been damaged, and won't allow a seal?

Ray

PS: is the ton of white smoke somehow related to this problem? Does that indicate too much fuel?

Ray, you indicate that it continues to leak in the same area, even after using a new hose clamp and hose. That indicates to me that it might be the fitting at that connection! Cracked, or loose in the pump.

IMHO clamps and hose are mickey mouse (no offense to Walt & Co.)when dealing with diesel. Have some Parker lines made up at your favorite auto store (NAPA) and install the appropriate fitting at the pump and fuel source!
It is also possible that the pump housing has a crack or defective casting (pinhole), that sprays onto the hose and makes you think the hose is the problem. I find that a good tool to trace diesel leaks is white Kleenex. The most minute amount of fuel shows up. Work from one end to the other using fresh as needed until you locate the leak. Wear the blue Nitrile gloves to keep the diesel off your skin (toxic and it burns ) when performing these tasks where repeated soakings are inevitable.:(

Hope this helps JIM:)

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Ray, I think the white smoke is due to a clogged/dirty nozzle. It could also be due to excess fuel in the combustion chamber. If the smoke situation does not go away after several minutes of running, replace the nozzle and test.

[Larry W]

I had a fuel leak on a aqua hot (Understand they are the same pump unit) on the Monaco plastic we had. I found the seal on the pump shaft had failed. A few drips while turned off and a LARGE leak while running.

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Ray, After the leak is cleaned and dry use your fingers to find the source or a mirror or any other means to spot the origin before it gets to the point that it will start dripping. Dripping means that it may have run downhill before it finally lets go. You obviously need to identify the first place it emerges.

I don't know how it has been set up, so any advice may only appear applicable to a Liberty, but if I had the difficulty seeing the source you describe, I would remove the fuel lines where they are NOT leaking, leaving them attached to the head, and then remove the head so you can look at it closely. Set it in a position approximately like that of when it is installed and using a pump oil can with diesel fuel in it pump fuel into the supply line and look for the source.

The Webasto is about the only thing on your coach that offers the luxury of easily removing it for a close up and personal look for leaks and repairs. Take advantage of that and consider yourself lucky it wasn't a similar problem on the engine or generator that you cannot disassemble easily.

[dreamchasers]

Ray,

I recently overhauled my Webasto because of leaks generated inside the Webasto housing. My leak was very simular to what you are describing, were the diesel would drip down the inlet hose to the heater. After re securing all connections, cleaning the diesel drip area, I determined the leak was coming from inside the head. In my case, the leak was being generated from the diesel pump seal. When disassembling the head, it became clear where the leak was occurring, you could see a 'drip trail' leading to pump seal.

I order a new pump, (which comes with a new .35 nozzle) and an assortment of new gaskets. After replacing pump and installing the assorted orings and gaskets, the unit was leak free. I ordered all the parts from Prevost at for approximately $380, which included overnight shipping from two locations (Nashville and New Jersey) to my home in Texas.

It was frustrating identifying the leak, because I had to remove and disassemble the head. I used the Webasto manual, available on line, and Mango Mike's tutorial on Webasto repair.

It worked for me.

Good luck!

Hector

[dreamchasers]

Here is the link for the Webasto repair manual, if needed. The pdf file is 9.5 Meg, so be patient if you do not have broadband.

Sorry for the double post, I had to sort out how to post a url.

http://www.techwebasto.com/heater_main/699745.pdf

Hector

[blacklab]

Ray, I had a simular diesel leak with my Webasto. Your right with regards to finding out where it is leaking. For less than $70.00, I installed a new "fuel pump pressure pipe service kit" (only the long pressure pipe) Part #5000216A and a kit containing a new banjo bolts, gaskets and banjo tubes. Part #66548A. When you take this apart and compare the old vs. new, you'll understand why the old style tends to leak. It worked for me. I did install new fuel lines and hose clamps from the fuel filter to the unit (supply) and from the 3/8" to 1/4" connection for the return side. Mine still puts out white smoke on its initial start-up, but clears up at temperature. I also installed a marine bilge blower in this bay. Mine leaks alittle smoke @ the housing and smelled up the coach. This cleared up the smell. Call Eggimann Motors & Equipment @ (608) 271-5544. They are in Madison, WI.

[bluevost]

Jon,

I am completely comfortable with removing the head of the unit with regards to disconnecting the control box., etc. Educate me a little with regards to disconnecting the electric/voltage input.

Thanks,

Ken

[bluevost]

Jon,

I went to the link Hector posted and got all the info needed.

Regards,

Ken

[Ray Davis]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Much appreciated.

Called all over the US today, trying to locate parts and someone with knowledge on these Webasco devices. Webasco tech support was helpful, but indicated I had to purchase parts through dealers. Of course, the list of dealers on the website generally were sunroof installers, and didn't handle the heater product lines.

Others indicated they could order parts, with a 3-week lead time.

Finally located a guy in Fontana (about 2 miles from Prevost Mira Loma), which is a specialist in RV heating systems. Says he has the parts in stock, and I'm heading over tomorrow AM!

When I first spoke with him, he indicated that the early fuel pumps were prone to leaking, and that's why they have built a newer replacement pub and kit.

Ray

[Joe Cannarozzi]

Ray have you tried Jim's Alaskan friend? Sounds like he has bookoo knowledge on those.

[truk4u]

Ray,

I remember multiple posts about the fuel pumps leaking, but I didn't think it applied to your vintage. Keep us posted...

[MangoMike]

Ray,
I've been out of touch for the last couple of days, so missed your post.

I had the same issue with mine leaking. After a couple of days of trouble shooting I just gave up and purchased a new fuel pump which solved my problem.

I also installed a fuel shutoff valve on the supply line to the Webasto so in case of future problems the fuel can be cutoff.

2012

2013

2014

2015

Pump was $177 from thermo king Roanoke,Va Ken parts
540 343-1528

[Ray Davis]

Mike,

Thanks for the info. I'm really hopeful that it is the pump. I've made contact with a dealer semi-local, and plan on going there tomorrow to get parts.

Was this the unit on your H3 that was leaking, or on your Mothership?

Ray

[Ray Davis]

PS: Where did you place the fuel-shutoff valvle? Inside the case for the Webasto, or external before the unit?

Thanks again,
Ray

[MangoMike]

2016
To get access to the fuel pump, remove the head and then remove the four hex screws holding this plate to the housing.

2017
The shaft of the pump penetrates the plate and is attached to a gear on the back side. Simply remove the clip on the shaft and remove the gear.

A couple of hex screws holds the pump to the plate.

[MangoMike]

2019

2020



webasto diagram

[gmcbuffalo]

Are we sure that plastic fuel filter with no filter is not the culpurt leak? If you have a good filter just prior to the supply line going into the Webasto I would do away with that internal filter. If not mount it outside so you can get at it in the future to change it. Those plastic ends can get distorted and leak no matter how tight they are.

[Ray Davis]

No, it's dry around the fuel filter assembly. I can see it dripping from the inlet tube, right at the hose clamp on the pump.

Ray

[pognumber15]

Ray -

I am going out on a limb to make a suggestion and feel free to tell me how stupid you think this is - but so far it looks to me like the banjo bolt on the inlet side is loose - and the fuel is becoming obvious once it gets down to the clamp. Try the inlet tube and see if it moves - it should not - if it does just tighten it - gently - the mashed grommet is the clue here. The seals in the banjo fittings sometimes fail but mostly someone messed with the unit and loosened the bolt through the center of the banjo fitting. Too Cheap and Easy? Yeah but if it works I can take the derisive remarks sure to follow.

Chuck Wall
'94 Liberty 40 Classic Lady
'98 Jeep Wrangler toad

[MangoMike]

Ray,

Chuck is right. As I recall there's a copper washer on that banjo fitting that's very easy to damage. I had a similar issue with those copper washers on the generator.

Worth a try.

Mike

[bluevost]

Chuck and Mango,

You guys might be right on the mark. That tube was lose, Ray did crank on it a little, but the washer may be the bad guy here. If it's not raining too hard here tomorrow morn. I'm going out and bring the head home so we can work on it on the bench. Don't tell Ray, he doesn't know I have a key to his hanger.

Will advise.

Ken

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Quit making nasty remarks about Hummers and maybe I won't tell. Between you and Jello boy I'm getting a complex.

[Ray Davis]

Who has my hangar key??!! :eek:


Ken, FYI I picked up a new pump rebuild kit, nozzle, new banjo pipes etc today. If you happen to go out and grab the head, that would be fine, I've got the stuff here at the house to rebuild it.

Chuck, I did look at the banjo tubes, and they didn't appear to be wet, but I'm not ruling that out. As Ken mentioned, I did tighten them but it made no difference in the leak. I spoke with Hector, and his leak was actually in the pump. The company I purchased the kit from indicated that leaking pumps was a common thing.

But, blacklab indicated that his high pressure tube (comes from the pump to the manifold) was leaking in his case.

AT least with the stuff I've purchased, I've got ALL of that new.

It also seems that they have changed from a 115lb pump with .6 gph nozzle to a 145lb pump with a .35 gph nozzle. That was part of the upgrade. That's the only variation that Webasto/AquaHot sell now.

Ray

[ChuckWall]

Ray & Ken -

If you have the old pump - the upgrade is very worthwhile because it will run cleaner with no smoke, better combustion, and less fuel - this is a good thing and well worth doing since you are already into the unit this far. It normally does take the kit you have purchased to run at the higher pressures - I'll be giving away my age but when I worked on my first Webasto we were setting pressures at 90psi. Every pressure increase used a smaller orifice and ran better. The setup you bought is the best!

Chuck Wall

[Ray Davis]

Thanks for the info Chuck! I should know by Saturday, as I hope to get out there at that time to get this installed. Perhaps if Ken sneaks out to the hangar, he'll bring it home (we live very close), and I can do the rebuild here on the bench, and then just bolt it in (AND get hot water/heat!)

Ray

[Ray Davis]

Ken went out to the hangar today and removed the burner unit, and brought it to my house (I'm still working).

At a quick glance, without taking the unit apart further, there appears to be some leakage on the input banjo tube perhaps near the base where it is screwed in. In looking at this is obvious that this unit had been upgraded prior. It is a 10 bar pump.

BUT, it seems that a couple of things were done wrong:

1. The gaskets at the bottom to seal around the in/out pipes are keyed. There is a left and right gasket, and it appears that the input side is either backwards, or the wrong one. It got pretty mangled, and was letting in air. This would cause the white smoke I was seeing.


2. The banjo washers don't appear to be correct. They are much bigger then the new washers which came with my upgrade kit. The upgrade washers are very very thin, while the two washers on the banjo bolts in the unit right now, are different sizes, and much larger than what I purchased.

I'm thinking that is where the real issue is right now.


Ray

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

From what you are saying Ray you are right on top of it. Seeing everything first hand is definitely an advantage.
Some of your comments throw up red flags for you to investigate before you proceed.
That is, the incorrect gaskets and assembly of the banjo: Examine all the parts you have with a magnifying glass to be sure nothing is damaged. Cracked body, stripped threads, crossed threads nicks and like that. I'm wondering why there was the incorrect gasket and assembly? A banjo at its best is not very desirable in my book but that's what you have. If it does not assemble perfectly you will have trouble!
I'm not sure what you bought. Was it the repair kit with the bearing the banjo kit or the whole pump. Do you have a way to test it on the bench, like with a drill and bucket?
JIM

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Ray, I read some of the previous posts and now know what parts you bought.

[blacklab]

Ray, when I took mine apart, the copper washers were thin. The new ones are thicker with some sort of "fiber" material on the inside ring. The bolts had a blue sealant on them as well. It fixed my leak. Still have white smoke on startup. I can live with that though.

[Ray Davis]

That's interesting, as my new washers are really, really thin.

I'll have to look at the service manual to see if I should be putting sealant on them.


Jim, I used the wrong word. When I said gasket, I mean "grommit". There are 4 rubber grommits surrounding the burner housing to make it air tight. There are left and right variations of these, and it won't work, espcially on the banjo tubes, if you try to use the wrong grommit.

Ray

[ChuckWall]

:oRay - I am a little concerned over my comment yesterday about the upgrade pump kits and nozzles. My experience with Prevosts is limited to the Webasto units installed by Prevost - these are 24 Volt units and are higher BTU output than are used in Aquahot units. The burner units are very similar and many parts are interchangeable - but I've been buying service parts from Prevost or at a truck repair facility familiar with the Webasto Vehicle heaters as common items. I have also worked on Aquahot and bought my parts for those Webasto burners from Aquahot (Vehicle Systems). The more I read about this problem the more concerned I get about what kind of a mix of parts you may be looking at. I suspect Jim is seeing the same issues. Just be sure the parts manual and the repair manual are both for the Webasto burner you have. Bottom line - if you have an 80,000 BTU unit you need the right parts for it. It is different than the 45,000 BTU units. My coach ('94 Liberty) has a DBW2020 Webasto in it (80,000 BTU). The .35 nozzles are for a DBW2010 (45,000 BTU). The fuel pumps are different part numbers however the "banjo fuel pipes, bolts, and washers appear to be the same part numbers. Mike's drawings and parts are correct for a DBW2020. My previous comments assumed that you were working on an Aquahot unit. I am not familiar with which system may be in your Marathon. It will take more research than I have done to determine how many parts are interchangeable but the nozzles, for one, are not.

[MangoMike]

Model DBW2010 (45,000 btu's) - In the Marathon H3-45

Uses the .35 nozzle part # 5088641a for $21.

Model DBW2020 (60,000 btu's) - In the Liberty

Uses the .6 nozzle

There's also 12v and 24v Webasto units out there. But it seems, like ChuckWall said, that a lot of parts are interchangeable.

Mike

[MangoMike]

These are the grommits Ray is talking about, that surround the fuel fittings.

2032

2033


Mike

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Model DBW2010 (45,000 btu's) - In the Marathon H3-45

Uses the .35 nozzle part # 5088641a for $21.

Model DBW2020 (60,000 btu's) - In the Liberty

Uses the .6 nozzle

There's also 12v and 24v Webasto units out there. But it seems, like ChuckWall said, that a lot of parts are interchangeable.

Mike

That's interesting to see the difference in the BTU sizing between XL Liberty and H3 Marathon.
Doesn't the H3 have more interior volume than an XL, yet it has a smaller burner??
So Mike is the XL warmer or does the H3 have more insulation and is just as warm, or can't you notice the difference.
Does it show up in the hot water supply in any way.

A couple side question I have.
When one has bus heat I assume that heat comes from engine coolant when running down the road.
If that is so, how is the Webasto linked to it? Is it in the same water circuit or is it a separate and independent system that has it's own heat exchanger "radiators" and piping?
If the Webasto heats the potable water and is linked to the engine coolant, when running down the road does one need to run the Webasto for hot potable water??
Also? (radiators = baseboard fin tube) or (radiator = radiator with fan for hot air)?? which one??

Further if the Webasto pre-heats the engine coolant if required, is that always the case every time the Webasto runs for heat and potable hot water, or must one switch it to that mode when required??

I assume the Webasto makes all the hot water on the bus, does it then heat the engine coolant if you are camped out for an extended time even in a hot environment and when engine heat is not necessary??

[Joe Cannarozzi]

It is using engine antifreeze. Some hot water heaters have a heat exchanger so engine heat keeps hot water and most installations have valves giving the operator the ability to isolate different aspects of that Webesto. Inside the coach the heat is fan forced.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

It is using engine antifreeze. Some hot water heaters have a heat exchanger so engine heat keeps hot water and most installations have valves giving the operator the ability to isolate different aspects of that Webesto. Inside the coach the heat is fan forced.

Would those be manual valves around in the service areas, or solenoid controlled from the dash area? I suppose each converter treats it differently.

[jack14r]

Jim,the converters do treat them differently.The marathon that I owned had a 12volt heat switch which turned on the webasto it could also be turned on with another switch to preheat the series 60,each switch also switched a solenoid open for water flow,both switches could be turned on at the same time.Also there was 2 hot water heaters that are 10.5 gallons each with a 110 volt circuit which will only allow one heater element on at a time,the water heaters also have a heat exchanger for the webasto and the DD.There is also a 110 volt heater for the DD.Liberty only has one switch which turns on the webasto and the water pump,it will heat the domestic hot water and the DD,to get heat in the coach there are thermostats that turn on the heat exchangers.There is a 20 gallon 110 volt water heater with heat exchanger and the DD also has a 110 volt heater as well.When traveling there is a webasto light on the dash that tells me the pump is running,it is never lit if the bus air is on.the two systems are totally different,I think that Liberty needs the 80,000 BTU system because they always heat the DD.There are ball valves in the system to turn off the heat to the DD,but I have not needed to yet.I hope this makes sense.Jack

[MangoMike]

Jim,

Jack outlined it pretty well. The Liberty had a plethora of manual valves to control Webasto heated coolant (Jon at one time diagramed them) but I never messed with them as I could never tell with any certainty which did what and as long as the system worked I was happy. I also wonder if Liberty didn't use the higher BTU as it was usually their way of doing things - bigger is better. No idea, just a guess.

The smaller Webasto has no problem keeping the H nice an toasty. We dry camped in the parking lot of Snowshoe ski area in WV last year for 4 days during a blizzard. Winds up to 45mph and 20 degrees outside at the top of the mountian, our camping spot, and we were snug as a diamond in a goats ass (oops wrong Texan analogy).

The Webasto in the H has all it's coolant plumbing controlled by solenoid valves, and there is a switch on the dash for block heat. At this point I don't know if that directs the Webasto coolant to the engine, separately or if it is part of the electric block heat. I know the switch doesn't control the 110v outlet that the block heat cable plugs into, as it always powered.

The webasto uses the same coolant as the engine, so if you're running down the road with the 12v heat on (secret Marathon code for Webasto heat) as long as the coolant temp is up, the Webasto doesn't need to fire, although now the circulation pump is running. Supplying heated coolant to the mini interior radiators and the jacket that surrounds both the 10 gallon water heaters.

Since I never know when the Webasto is firing, I'm going to install a pilot light and an hour meter on the fuel pump/fan blower motor of the Webasto to see it's actual run time.

Mike

[Jon Wehrenberg]

Excellent idea about a pilot light and hour meter.

Since I come from the old school that likes steam gauges and system information I think any way to tell the system status is beneficial, and especially when there is a need for trouble shooting.

I know that with my valving arrangement I can heat the bus, the engine or both. Because on a bitter cold day the engine has tremendous heat loss, so I suspect the unit is oversized for that reason.

Like Mike we have run down the road with the Webasto engaged but likely not firing because the engine was at temp. It would be nice to have a set of small pilot lights to verify the Webasto pump has power to it, and to know when the burner is firing. Except for the blower motors inside the coach (which are louder than the engine) I have no indicator the Webasto is turned on.

Damn...another project. Thanks a lot Mike.

[MangoMike]

Well Jon, I was thanking you for the same thing. Another project.

2034

mm

[Kevin Erion]

I found that in our 99 Marathon I never turned the 12V heat or 12V water heat on when driving and we had VERY hot water. When I was having fun trying to find out why when on 12V water heat the Webasco would start cycling after running only 5 minutes, Marathon recommended taking the return solenoid valves out of the system, mine had already been gutted so I removed them and installed ball valves in there place.
The water pump on the DD will push coolant past the webasco circulation pump as long as the valve to the water heater is open. It is my opinion that having the hot water always receiving coolant is a good thing. You just don't want the hot water going thru the base heaters due to increase temp in the coach when not needed.

[JIM CHALOUPKA]

Thanks all for a very thorough answer.

[Ray Davis]

So Ken brought the burner unit to my house yesterday morning. Today we attacked the rebuild.

The Aqua Hot people indicated to me that their unit used exactly the same burner pieces as Webasto. In fact the new pump I received indicated Webasto on the pump.

Evidently somewhere in the past there were 7 or 8 bar pumps (101 or 116 psi) pumps, which used a .60 nozzle. They've upgrade the pumpbs to 10 bar (145 psi) and reduced the nozzles to .35.

As it turned out, mine was either already upgrade, or was originally manufactured that way.

In taking the unit apart, we couldn't find an obvious source of the leak, although it seemed it was coming from the inlet pipe, perhaps around the inner washer. The washers were much bigger than received in the new kit.

Rather than just remove the pipe and replace, we went ahead with the pump replacement. So, all in all we replaced, pump, hi-pressure line to manifold, fuel inlet/outlet lines and grommits, banjo bolts and washers.


Repair went pretty much without hitch. Had to purchase a split ring pliers to remove a snap ring on the back of the pump, but the washer broke when we tried to remove it. Luckily was able to find a suitable replacement at Pep Boys.

Put the unit in the bus, and fired it up and it worked, with no leaks. Some white smoke for just a couple of minutes, and some residual due to leaked fuel down in the exhaust area. All that cleared up after about 10 minutes of running. Water in coach was hot, and heaters blew hot as well.

All in all, total success!



Here's a few pictures from the event:

This is Ken, before we got to work this morning!

2036


Most of the hardware removed:

2035


Ain't nothing smoking now, 'cept maybe Ray

2037

[MangoMike]

Nice job Webasto Kings.


mm

[Jon Wehrenberg]

The west coast Webasto experts.

With Mango covering the east, JDUB in south central all we need is upper midwest representation, Dale J.

[Ray Davis]

Nice job Webasto Kings

Mango, you remain the king! We are but your humble students! :D

[MangoMike]

As a final check before we were going to leave town to ski in West Virginia, dry camping, I decided to check the Webasto.

Of course it wouldn't fire.

Naturally my wife chimes in with "so what's the problem, you're the Webasto king". Yes dear.

Fuel was flowing, the blower motor was working, the nozzle was new so the only thing missing was the starting spark.

I decided to remove the coil (Webasto calls it the Electronic Ignition Unit) to apply power directly to see if I could get a spark.

2309
Electronic Ignition Unit

This is what I discovered on the bottom side, hid from view.

2310
Somehow it self destructed from the inside out. No workie here.


From the manual:
2311

I'm going to call Webasto to see if they have any idea what caused the failure. And I wish I had tested the unit a day earlier, I could have had the part before I left town.

The Webasto is a pretty basic unit, so don't be shy in doing some basic examination work if it doesn't fire.

... and the camping. We had to rely on the electric baseboard heat. Thank you Prevo for multiple systems.


Mike

[Ray Davis]

Kevin Erion's webasto had a bad coil. Kevin spoke with a repairman who indicated to put 12(24) volts directly across the wires of the coil, and to do this 200 times. IF it failed even once, to replace the unit.

The unit was replaced, and last report from Kevin was that it's working great. Good news is that it's trivial to replace.

No clue as to why it would self destruct like your picture!

Ray

[MangoMike]

I talked with Webasto headquarters (1-800-555-4518, 1 - tech help/ Tracy) in Michigan today and here's their response.

Tracy, the longtime tech, has never seen a coil failure like this (I sent him the email photo).

We suspect that since webasto was never used by the previous California owner that one of the three mini relays inside of the "brain" controller unit was sticking from lack of use. I had a problem previously with the fan blower inside the unit not shutting down after it's cool down period and had to depower the Webasto to get it shut down. One of the those three relays control that blower the other one controls the ignition coil (which only works for a few seconds while the unit is starting) and the third controls the coolant pump.

If this relay to the coil did stick it wouldn't take long to fry the inside of that coil according to the tech.

I've already ordered a new coil, ($228 part # 101 846 for the 24v version) but now will order the brain as I don't want to take chance of that relay (if that's the problem) sticking again and burning up another coil.

Mike

Ray,

I can't image Kevin taking the time to test that coil 200 times. Although he is an anal detail guy, he would just write the check and replace it.

[Ray Davis]

I can't image Kevin taking the time to test that coil 200 times. Although he is an anal detail guy, he would just write the check and replace it.

I don't think he had to test even a dozen times. His Webasto would fail to fire 24 out of 25 tries! I believe his test immediately showed the unit to be bad.

Ray

[Jerry Winchester]

Between the new coil and a new brain you better sell some more jerked chicken this week. I think the brain is the most expensive part on the whole unit. Or at least of the parts I have bought. So far.

[Kevin Erion]

201 times tested before I cut loose with the cash! We get back to the run at least once a month rule, Mr Webasco King!